fenderfour Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Does the bolt ladder on the Pioneer Route of the Monkey Face have hangers or is it just bare bolts? The guidebook doesn't say anything aboot it, and my half-hearted seach of the net yielded nuttin. -Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Hangers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 There were hangers when I did it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted December 16, 2004 Author Share Posted December 16, 2004 Tanks y'all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Do the variation... you 2 pitches to Bohn street instead of 1... both are super fun. Also there is a variation to panic point (starts at same point PP does) that goes way right (climbers) instead of straight up to the nose... I haven't done it yet but heard its 5.8 fun to the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Hey Fender4, don't bother with aider and all that aid crap. The bolts are close enough to french free it. It goes really quick. Also those lower pitch are alright, turns in to a real climb, otherwise it is two short micro pitches one french free and an awesome 5.7 pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Like NOLSe said, do the variation (West Face Variation) but do the variation of that (13a I think???) that makes it a .7 and then a nice long .8 taking a more direct line to Bohn Street. I haven't done it either but the Panic Point variation goes up and right directly to the summit after the first couple of bolts on the regular pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Just nail your way up the East Face crack. I heard 2" angles work real good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 As others have said, that West Face Variation replaces the 1st forgettable pitch of Pioneer Route (c. 5.5) with nice 2 or 3 pitches of .7-.8 climbing. Much more fun option! The Variation itself has like 4 or 5 variations in Watts book. Have done 2 of those, the "13" (3P to Bohn) and "13a" (2P to Bohn). "13a" has better climbing and avoids the horrendous rope drag on P2 of "13". "13" has only one move that could qalify as an .8 (starting P3 you have to move up onto the traverse slab). The best part of "13" is that you can get some awsome shots of your second doing the traverse as you're looking down from Bohn st. French freeing that bolt ladder would be "interesting" - the A0 pitch starts vertical and goes overhangning near the top. Bolts are all shiney new (though there was some mention on the boards that one of them popped out last fall). This seems like the ideal place to get a first taste of very easy aiding. Have not done the 5.8 bolted variation to Panic Point pitch. I'd imagine it would be stellar - you get all the benefits of the standard Panic Point pitch but replace the forgettable low 5th scramble above with a super exposed face climb (this BTW is called Monkey Off My Back). There's got to be a million TR's on the web on the Pioneer route and half a million on west face variation Couple examples: http://www.mountainwerks.org/mwp/climbing/smithrock.htm (nice photos of pioneer route) http://www.summitpost.org/show/mountain_link.pl/mountain_id/1695 (pioneer and w. face var. photos) http://www.dingomt.com/SmithRock/MonkeyFace/monkey.htm (pioneer route) http://smithrock.com/flash/routeupdates/monkey_back.html (monkey off my back) Enjoy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Hey Fender4, don't bother with aider and all that aid crap. The bolts are close enough to french free it. It goes really quick. Also those lower pitch are alright, turns in to a real climb, otherwise it is two short micro pitches one french free and an awesome 5.7 pitch. Have you actual done this? What is your ape index? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Like NOLSe said, do the variation (West Face Variation) but do the variation of that (13a I think???) that makes it a .7 and then a nice long .8 taking a more direct line to Bohn Street. I haven't done it either but the Panic Point variation goes up and right directly to the summit after the first couple of bolts on the regular pitch. What is 13? The PP variation? I heard it was 5.8... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Like NOLSe said, do the variation (West Face Variation) but do the variation of that (13a I think???) that makes it a .7 and then a nice long .8 taking a more direct line to Bohn Street. I haven't done it either but the Panic Point variation goes up and right directly to the summit after the first couple of bolts on the regular pitch. What is 13? The PP variation? I heard it was 5.8... Route #13a in the guidebook you numberchasing grade monkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Hey Fender4, don't bother with aider and all that aid crap. The bolts are close enough to french free it. It goes really quick. Also those lower pitch are alright, turns in to a real climb, otherwise it is two short micro pitches one french free and an awesome 5.7 pitch. Have you actual done this? What is your ape index? Doesn't everyone do it this way? It takes like 5 minutes. And I have a -1" ape index Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Like NOLSe said, do the variation (West Face Variation) but do the variation of that (13a I think???) that makes it a .7 and then a nice long .8 taking a more direct line to Bohn Street. I haven't done it either but the Panic Point variation goes up and right directly to the summit after the first couple of bolts on the regular pitch. What is 13? The PP variation? I heard it was 5.8... Route #13a in the guidebook you numberchasing grade monkey Ahhh... route number... not grade. Need... more... coffee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Hey Fender4, don't bother with aider and all that aid crap. The bolts are close enough to french free it. It goes really quick. Also those lower pitch are alright, turns in to a real climb, otherwise it is two short micro pitches one french free and an awesome 5.7 pitch. Have you actual done this? What is your ape index? Doesn't everyone do it this way? It takes like 5 minutes. And I have a -1" ape index I have a +6 to shoe size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 You have 6 hot dogs in your shoes? Are you trying to pretend you are Reinhold Messner, with blackened cocktail sausages for toes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Just nail your way up the East Face crack. I heard 2" angles work real good. Dru you really do stir the shit pot once in a while eh? Must be feeling quite contrary today. I've done it the East side couple of times with strictly nuts, RP's to @ big wireds. I would expect that with Trango brassie offsets (I still long to own a set of these) and aliens or Metolious 3 cam units (I finally bought a set) it would be fairly cush clean aid. Bolts were added up top for the free climbers, so the crux is now the first 30 feet off the deck if aided IMO. Besides, you won't ground from the 2nd pitch, but 1st pitch, hmmmm, could happen real easy. There are some @ 3/4 angle slots which are real tricky to nut up high, which I suspect an alien or TCU would be wicked strong in. Far as that goes, ballnutz and perhaps even cam hooks would be sweet and undoubedly lessen the grade right off the deck too (speculation, I don't know for sure). If you do Pioneer, take aiders and a cheater stick. You might or might not need the stick, but you can ask Ivan about all that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 I would expect that with Trango brassie offsets (I still long to own a set of these) and aliens or Metolious 3 cam units (I finally bought a set) it would be fairly cush clean aid. Far as that goes, ballnutz and perhaps even cam hooks would be sweet and undoubedly lessen the grade right off the deck too. Yup. If you want to nail go do Bubba's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted December 16, 2004 Author Share Posted December 16, 2004 I want to do the easy aid. That's half my reason for doing this route. I'm bringing a couple o' hooks just in case there are bolts missing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 all the bolts were there as of 2 weeks ago. the w face variation, going left after the first pitch, is indeed the best way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retired Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 If you decide to "go do Bubbas", bring a cheat stick for the second pitch. A crucial hook move blew out on me last winter on the bolted traverse, it needs a bolt unless you're very good at nailing mud...straight up! 3 feet with a hook on the end will work. What kind of a joker would use hangers like those? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Hey Fender4, don't bother with aider and all that aid crap. The bolts are close enough to french free it. It goes really quick. Also those lower pitch are alright, turns in to a real climb, otherwise it is two short micro pitches one french free and an awesome 5.7 pitch. Have you actual done this? What is your ape index? Yes I have and my ape index is -1 if I am lucky. I think I may have skipped a bolt or two. There is probably some better lines around that would be better practice aiding, than the Pioneer Route, it is a great route but doesn't really give you a feel for aid. Oh yeah enjoy the rap, a wild 200 foot free hanging rap, the most exciting part of the climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 all the bolts were there as of 2 weeks ago. the w face variation, going left after the first pitch, is indeed the best way to go. Damn man, do you climb that thing once a month or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 Yup. If you want to nail go do Bubba's. Are you talking "Dead Baby Bubbas in a Blender"? Tell Coylec, Chrismas vacation for him after finals I expect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 Bubbas in bondage. Picnic lunch. Jim: hook move? Knowing you I'm surprised you haven't freed it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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