Dreamer-Green Giant Buttress

[Cpt.Caveman]

Hey Dave it's great what you guys are doing out there. Keep up the good work.

[JayB]

As long as were on the topic of Dreamer/Green Giant Buttress - anyone know the name of the big granite formation to the climbers right (across the valley)? Anyone know any info about the climbing history on that sucker, or the lack thereof.

 

It should be marked with a red X on the map found here:

 

http://www.topozone.com/map.aspz=10&n=5334386&e=601020&s=25

[russ]

quote:

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Originally posted by David Parker:

Also, the approach is a total piece of cake compared to 1986! No trail whatsoever back then!

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you must have missed it or the trail was in one of those weird time/space dimension warps. we did dreamer in 83 (my first yr in WA) and found the trail just fine. went back a couple years later and wandered in the vine maple. then went back later that summer and the trail mysteriously re-appeared (no, it couldn't been us and we were not abusing substances)

 

I agree with others that the runout, knob tieing last pitches were a major character of the route. On the other hand, when I climbed it again 3-4 years ago, I enjoyed those bolted pitches - just different kind of experience.

 

One thing that was kind of amusing (for me anyway) was that this late time there was a party just ahead of that was "kind of slow" in their route finding. I don't like to spray beta, so I kept my mouth shut and waited patiently. Near the end of the 5th pitch where you start traversing left, a shiny bolt lured them up and right. I again kept quite, but used the opportunity to zip past them on the left. They looked kind of pissed, but hey, alls fair....

[tomrogers]

We bagged our plans to climb some of the multi day routes due to wife problems. So we climbed Dreamer instead.

 

If this climb were in Yosemite, it would have an entire line of stars beside its name. It has "Classic" written all over it.

 

Route update:

The last two pitches (the 5.8 runout, knobby pitches above the two 5.9 pitches) have been (re) bolted and now have brand new gear and good protection. In my humble opinion, these two pitches offer some of the most fun climbing of the entire route, now, which possibly the exception of the Blue Crack (5.9 pitch). I had not done these pitches before since the guidebooks have suggested that most parties rappel before these two pitches due to bad runouts and there unpleasant. This is the not the case now. See my comments below regarding the status of the first of these two pitches.

 

Dreamer 5.9, IV (semi to sustained climbing)

 

Summary:

Drive Issaquah to Darrington 2 hours

Drive Darrington to trailhead 1 hour

Approach to base of ALTERNATE START, 1 hour

Climb 5 to 10 hours

Rappel route 2.5 + hours, if rope does not get eaten by rope eating crack below the Blue Crack

Two ropes required, if rappelling

Medium Rack, one set of nuts and cams from small to 3.5", several doubled cams in medium to 3.5" range.

10 slings with several doubles

2 cordalettes

 

Pitch 1-2:

Alternate start (5.6): this start adds (2) pitches to the tradition climb (11 pitches now). This start is about 200 ft below the traditional start, look for cairn next to start. It follows a left facing corner (very thin crack) with occasional bolts to a big bush far above and the start of the traditional 5.7 crack of the climb. This start allows one to not down climb the slabs in the dark and rain if need be.

 

Pitch 3:

5.7 crack and slab to another bush

 

Pitch 4:

5.8 slab, mild run out which 2 or 3 bolts. Climb rightward and rising about 10-15 feet to first bolt. The next bolt is the same above. Do not traverse hard right to off route bolt. The next belay is right and above in a groove. Do not climb direcly upward, at the start of this pitch, as it leads to an alternate 5.10+ direct route (well protected and the crux is at the last bolt, also well protected, the majority of the route is sustained 5.8)

 

Pitch 5:

5.8 slab more runout then the former. Climb left or directly to the first bolt. Do not get sucked into the groove proper as it is slick and un protectable. Plus chances are you will miss the first bolt thereby making it very very runout. Several bolts to follow. Belay is far above and way leftward. When rappelling the route do not rappel back via this pitch.

 

Pitch 6:

5.7 slabs and 5.6+ crack (around corner by the bush). The slab traverse is tricky. It is runout but about 5.6+ if one traverses LEVEL over bulge to knobs and then up. Harder if leftward rising attempt. Climb to tree. (This tree is a good rappel option which will keep the two cracks below from eating your ropes after you pull them from the start of pitch 7.) Climb crack to top of pillar, make wide step across to right facing corner and then up to belay.

 

If rappelling from the tree, be sure the ropes do not go into the cracks below you or you could end up cutting your rope to free it. The tree is due for a backup sling to a high chock stone, 10 ft long sling. From the tree rappel back to the strat of pitch 6. Once again do not let ropes go into the cracks below. The cracks are narrow and open into a wide void beneath which you have no access to and several rope members reamin to tell their stories. An alternate so-so rappel station is nearby just in case it happens.

 

Pitch 7:

This is the Blue Crack pitch (5.9). cracks up to piton and bolt. After the bolt, traverse right on face (5.8) along flaky edges to small roof. Undercling leftward traverse (5.9) until one turns corner. Keep feet semi low on traverse, it's all there but is very committing. Protect early. After corner, face climb (5.8) into crack. Follow 30-40 feet to belay on the arete.

 

Later, when rapping to this belay, ensure the rope is not going down the fall line but rather rightward towards this belay or a difficult and scary tension traverse on a slick wall will be required - not fun.

 

Pitch 8:

This is the last 5.9 pitch.

Climb to bolt which is three feet from crack in roof (5.9). Do not go straight up bushy corner. Rather undercling traverse (5.8+) leftward until around the first roof (approx 10 feet from bolt). Protect traverse for the follower. After rounding the corner of the first roof ascend upward to 5.9 face climb, protected by (3) well spaced bolts. Upward to belay. We did not do the 5.9 face climb, but rather continued unknowing off-route by undercling traversing of multiple roof systems another 30 - 40 feet into a dirty corner. And then upward and rightward traversing back into belay (protection this way is okay and climbing somewhat consistent with the initial 5.9 undercling traverse. Once again, protect the second as its a long ways over. This way maybe somewhat easier then the 5.9 face climb, I assume. When rappelling from here angle sharply rightward towards belay below. Rappel backup maybe warranted.

 

Pitch 9:

Awesome pitch, 5.8 knobs, a sea of knobs and approx 6 or so bolts. From the belay you can see two bolts in the leftward distance which climb leftward 20 ft over a short section of 5.4 knobs this is the start of the 5.7/5.8 portion. This line climbs LEFT and on top of the big right facing corner which looks none too good. From here follow the bolts until you can not see any more bolts and a crack system appears up ahead. At this point make a rising rightward traverse to the final bolt which leads to the belay which is not visible until the bolt is reached.

 

The route book says most people don't climb these. I do not understand this because they are two of the finest pitches now. Perhaps the route the guidebook author spoke of is the line which ascends to the right of the big right facing corner. It looks bad indeed. Perhaps the leftward route is the correct one. If it was then the comment to not climb it would be justified, if the pitch did not have said bolts. The route would be rated a X, death or severe injury, if the bolts were not there. Because, at best, there are only 2 protection points for the entire pitch and not well spaced at that.

 

Pitch 10:

More of the same quality, but less sustained. Traditional gear required later on.

 

Pitch 11: to top, straight forward. We didn't do.

[Scott_J]

Dave Whitelaw, Matt Perkins and and many other have worked on this area for years trying to keep it open and clean for future generations of climbers.

I left this area in 1979 and returned recently with a burning desire to climb at the Darrington area. Dave was an old friend from many years ago and very nicely agreed to take me up there to visit and climb. It was a wonderful experience to hear his stories of working the routes, and drilling by hand while on lead with other friends of ours Duane Constantino, Chris Greyell, and Dave Tower. There have been many more pioneers whose names I have forgotten or just don't know, so don't be angry if I left you or your friend out of this little story.

Anyway a big thanks to Dave again for taking me there that one Saturday in June. Since then I have been back a whole bunch. Lots of fun and great climbing if you enjoy that type of climbing.

[pope]

Regarding a rap line down from the top o' Dreamer, MattP and I (and others) reteated by descending the Safe Sex route, which has excellent fixed belays and clean rope pulling after each rap. The Safe Sex route apears to be an excellent outing in the ASCENT mode also, although I haven't climbed it.

 

I think I first did Dreamer in about '88 or '89, and the last two pitches of secure 5.6/5.8 knobs (or whatever) were already bolted...a little out of character with the rest of the route, but certainly not offensive.

[David_Parker]

DaveW, I was only implying changing the massive amounts of webbing to chains, using the existing bolts and hangers. The best example is the belay at the top of the 10.b of Urban Bypass. While at times I like the high visibility of the colorful webbings so I can see where I'm trying to get to, I'd still prefer the chains and bolts for overall disguise,safety and piece-of-mind.

 

Russ, in '86 I remember an old logging road with thousands of new alders that you could barely fit between. These have obviously grown significantly and have appear to have been thinned out by man. Way easier now. The trail through the forest is obvious the whole way now. The section after the woods is also much easier to follow. Before it was mostly bushwacking and I remember not being able to see the ground and tripping over the boulders. Of course, I was on drugs in the 80's a lot more too!

[chucK]

quote:

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Originally posted by David Parker:

DaveW, I was only implying changing the massive amounts of webbing to chains, using the existing bolts and hangers. The best example is the belay at the top of the 10.b of Urban Bypass. While at times I like the high visibility of the colorful webbings so I can see where I'm trying to get to, I'd still prefer the chains and bolts for overall disguise,safety and piece-of-mind.

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That's what DaveW was talking about. Changing all the stations to that like the one on top of Urban Bypass.

[j_b]

I gather few people do the Giant's Tears start because of bad bolts. Has anyone considered replacing the hardware? The climb is of high quality and I'd consider it a higher priority than setting up another rap route (original descent is good enough in my book)

[robertm]

I would pitch in to replace the old 1/4ers on giants tears. It deserves more traffic.

[tomrogers]

Wow, this discussion and the mattp's topo and scott's photo really relps clarify the route and its history. Great job you guys. I love the Yosemite and High Sierra regions but when it comes to this route combination, this route ranks with some of the best in the country.

 

PS, I say we get together and fill the freekin rope eaten bastard crack up with plaster once and for all. That damn crack cost me some serious pain in the ass a few years ago.

 

Climb on... Climbwild

[Cpt.Caveman]

robertm,

 

you or anyone can donate cash to a reliable source at ProMountainSports

 

Recently I climbed with some of those route creaters at Darrington and it was beautiful. I recommend climbing there more to anyone who has not. We did a nice classic.

 

I got scared of the slabs

[Smoker]

quote:

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Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

robertm,

 

you or anyone can donate cash to a reliable source at ProMountainSports

 

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Thanks for the heads up. I have enjoyed many fine days of climbing at Darrington.

 

I am happy to drop a few bones into the kitty