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Posted

I was purusing the Seattle Public Library's catalog for climbing related items and came across a video called "Golden Horn". I put it on hold and within a week it was waiting for me at my local library branch. I just watched it and would recommend it to all of you.

 

It is from a TV series called "Exploration Northwest" hosted by Don McCune and this particular episode features Gordy and Lowell Skoog making the first ascent of Golden Horn's north face with a camera crew led by Carl Skoog in 1979! cool.gif It was really cool to see some of the gear they were wearing/carrying - EB's with high wool socks and knickers, 1st generation friends, etc.

 

There isn't much information about Golden Horn in my first edition red Beckey, but it looks like a pretty cool peak in the WA Pass area, despite some crappy rock. However, it lists the first ascensionists as Gordon Skoog and Jim Walseth. Who is this Jim guy? Was he one of the camera crew? Why isn't Lowell and the rest of the camera crew listed?

 

Care to comment Lowell? wink.gif

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Posted

That's pretty cool.

 

And I'd just like to add that from what I remember from my climb of Golden Horn, it actually has some pretty solid rock by Cascade standards. The (North?) Face looked pretty solid and slabby.

Posted

From my Beckey Guide (1st Edition, 1981):

"NORTH FACE: First Ascent by Fred Beckey and Roe (Duke) Watson on July 27, 1958....References: A.A.J., 1959, pp. 304-305.; Mountaineer, 1959, p. 108."

 

Skoog and Co. were not first ascensionists of North Face. Theirs was the Northeast Arete, which is also in Beckey. "Crux is first pitch. Grade III, 5.8. Reference: A.A.J. 1980."

 

Incidentally, Fred Beckey, Keith Rankin, & Chuck Welsh (see third picture on this page) made the FA of Golden Horn over all in 1946. No doubt this was by the easy westside route.

Posted
Skoog and Co. were not first ascensionists of North Face. There's was the Northeast Arete...

 

Thanks for the correction Mr. Klenke. Allow me to reply in kind by highlighting you're grammaticular error above.

 

 

"DAMN IT JIM! I'M AN ENGINEER, NOT A ENGLISH TEACHER!"

Posted

The TV show was the second ascent of the NE arete/buttress. My brother Gordy and Jim Walseth did the first ascent the previous summer. The producers bent the truth a little to spice up the program.

 

We did a previous show with KOMO-TV about cross-country skiing in 1978-79. That show won an Emmy (not for anything WE did) and the producers asked Gordy if he knew of a rock climb they could film. Gordy had just done Golden Horn and since it wasn't in a wilderness area (allowing helicopter access), he suggested it. It was a fun trip. Watching the film today is a mix of nostalgia and embarrassment for me. Here's a picture from the trip:

 

0038-037-goldenhorn-crew.jpg

 

From left to right are Gordy (disembodied head), Joel Schroedel (producer), Chris Raaum (sound), Dave Anthony (support climber), Daryl Benedict (lead cameraman), Jens Kieler and Buzz Mercereau (support climbers). My brother Carl was near the summit when this picture was taken. His main job was to keep the summit cameraman from falling off the mountain.

 

Gary Brill did the NE arete a year or two later and thought the rock was scary. That's why Beckey's red guide has some warnings about it.

Posted (edited)
Quote
Quote
Hey lets bring the Indian sweaters back into vogue
You stopped wearing yours? pitty.gif

My university attire for four years:

"Under the Volcano" hat to signify alliegance with failed drunk writers

Cargo shorts and Tevas

 

Line forms here honey smileysex5.gif

Edited by jordop
Posted

"Shorts in winter guy" blush.gif

 

 

"Hey man it's gonna be summer real soon. Summer's just around the bend. Check out how fuzy my legs got! I'm just a regular ol' wooly bear!"
Posted

 

I used to live WITH a volcano! blush.gif

 

 

Lowell, Thanks for the info. It was a great program; really fun to watch. I hope you don't mind that I have drawn attention to it even though I don't think you have anything to be embarrassed about.

 

bigdrink.gif

Posted

Jim Walseth here, first ascentionist with Gordy of Golden Horn of the route later videotaped. Although long ago and far far away, I still have a vivid image in my mind of an unprotected trough of decomposing orange granite somewhere along the route. Very insecure. No less so on the second, third, fourth ascent etc. When, in the film, Gordy expresses concern saying 'wow this is sketchy' or something, he is not dramatizing. I would not have chosen to go back on that route myself. Thanks to Richard Korry to letting me know my memories were needed in the thread. Also thanks to the post identifying me as 1st ascentionist of All Along the Watchtower. Now that was a climb...

Posted
I was purusing the Seattle Public Library's catalog for climbing related items and came across a video called "Golden Horn". I put it on hold and within a week it was waiting for me at my local library branch. I just watched it and would recommend it to all of you.

 

It is from a TV series called "Exploration Northwest" hosted by Don McCune and this particular episode features Gordy and Lowell Skoog making the first ascent of Golden Horn's north face with a camera crew led by Carl Skoog in 1979! cool.gif It was really cool to see some of the gear they were wearing/carrying - EB's with high wool socks and knickers, 1st generation friends, etc.

 

There isn't much information about Golden Horn in my first edition red Beckey, but it looks like a pretty cool peak in the WA Pass area, despite some crappy rock. However, it lists the first ascensionists as Gordon Skoog and Jim Walseth. Who is this Jim guy? Was he one of the camera crew? Why isn't Lowell and the rest of the camera crew listed?

 

Care to comment Lowell? wink.gif

 

I had it just before you.

  • 3 years later...
Posted

Thanks for the write-up Lowell, that's awesome. I heard a rumor that all the free helicopter rides were a major incentive to sign-on with this project!

 

My question is... How's the NE arete as far as route quality?

 

Gordy says it's good, and then Gary Brill and Jim Walseth mention decomposing & insecure choss.

 

Posted
My question is... How's the NE arete as far as route quality?

 

Gordy says it's good, and then Gary Brill and Jim Walseth mention decomposing & insecure choss.

 

I thought it was okay after our trip. Somewhat serious, but okay. It is a bit of a "head climb," one of those climbs where you need to be careful and have confidence climbing at the difficulty level with occasionally bad gear.

 

The peak is dramatic from that side. Gordy first spotted the route on a drive up Slate Peak in the late 1970s.

 

  • 4 weeks later...

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