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Posted

Anyone have a reccomendation for a good spot to practice aid climbing near Portland? I guess I could always go to Rocky Butt and tinker around. Are there any routes there that would be good for practice without being in anyone's way?

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Posted
Clean or not?

 

Definately clean. Why ruin free routes with pin scars, right?

 

I'm hoping for somewhere I can hit after work, but I live in BeaverTRON so just about everywhere is a 45 minute drive away.

Posted

I asked only because a few choss piles and road cuts exist in PDX which allow one to practice piton craft (peter croft?) without pissing anyone off or ruining free routes...

 

I would recommend anywhere you can set up a fixed line quickly and access multiple routes off that anchor (which is just about every area in PDX). As you get the hang of things you will likely search out very thin lines and face routes to practice micro nut placements and hooking.

 

If you want to borrow any aid gear (cam hooks, micro nuts, brass, solo aider, etc) drop me a line... I line in PDX.

Posted

I did a roped solo aid run up "Free For Some" out at Beacon a couple of weeks ago when I forgot things I needed to roped solo free climb (like my shoes, grigri, pack, etc.) - it was actually a lot of fun. Pipeline or the two lines immediately left of Windsurfer would fit the bill, as well. I suspect most of Broughton would be fine and Bill Coe could probably speak to Rocky Butte.

Posted

Ireneo and myself aided up Pipeline last saturday. Just be aware that if someone walks up and wants to freeclimb a route you are aiding, etiquette dictates you get out of their way.

Posted

Thanks, NOLSe. Any of those piles of rocks on the west side? I'm not looking for classics, just a pile large enough to practice gear placement and maybe get off of the ground a bit.

 

I'd definitely have to get out to Beacon and Broughtons sometime, but I'd like to get started somewhere where I won't be bothering anyone if it takes me an hour to climb 10 feet.

Posted

How about the place in Oregon City? It is quite short but may fit the bill. Can't remember exactly where it was but it is mentioned in the back of the Portland Rock climbers guide. Close to where 99 goes through the tunnel if I remember correctly. Not sure if it would take any more or less time to get to from Beaverton with all of the traffic.

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