Infinite Bliss -this Sat, Sept 25

[Cpt.Caveman]

Anyone want to climb the standard route this weekend?

[Squid]

Hey Alex-

I didn't see any 'spray' in this thread- dead horses, yes, but no spray.

What makes this discussion different than the Fee Demo thread currently going on- or the South Side of Adams Ski Lift thread?

 

Is every discussion about bolts automatically dumped in spray?

[Alex]

no, but if you cant keep your agendas out of "partner wanted" ads, then you shouldnt be posting here. let the dude climb what he wants and make up his own mind.

 

<edit>sorry, Squid, to answer your question, I thought the Adams discussion was already in Access, and the Fee Demo is on the climbing board? I would probably move the Fee Demo thing to Access sometime after its run its course in a few days or weeks or whatever. There are already good threads on Infinite Bliss in Access forum as well.</edit>

Edited September 23, 2004 by Alex

[Squid]

Fair enough, but since this isn't spray maybe you should more it to the climbing forum.

 

I'm not choosing sides in the discussion, but as an observer your action looked pretty heavy-handed.

[Crackbolter]

Just keep it in Spray because that is what it is.

[Squid]

[Lambone]

how about Rock Climbing forum. Seems pretty relavent there.

 

thanks for not at least sending it to the garbage can, it toook me a while to type those posts and express myself without calling Crackbolter a stupid fucking asshole.

[Off_White]

calling Crackbolter a stupid fucking asshole.

 

Well, see, now it's Spray.

[Cpt.Caveman]

I say leave it here.

 

Chop Chop

[philfort]

I find it hard to believe that a 23 pitch sport climb with 3/8" bolts in Granite was drilled by hand.

 

Garfield? Granite?

[Squid]

Well, since we're in spray, I might as well play to my strengths.

 

 

Spray sucks today. Entertain me.

[Alex]

Actually, Infinite Bliss is mostly on granite. The first (what?) 7 or so pitches are on really(!) nice rock but low angle, then there are a few pitches of band of ex38 stuff, then alot more granite. The middle mountain (pitch 16,17,18) isnt as clean as the lower polished slabs on the first 8 pitches or so.

[Dru]

lets do the math!

23 pitch climb

reportedly 12 bolts per pitch for 21 of the 23 pitches or something

12x23=288. let's just say 250 for simplicity's sake.

 

time to drill one 3/8"x3" hole by hand = half an hour if your drill is sharp and your hammer is heavy

time to drill with power drill = 30 seconds

 

drill time for hand drill - 125 hours, or about two and a half weeks steady of eight hour days doing nothing but tap, tap, tap

 

drill time for power drill (assumning extra battery packs) - 125 minutes, or about half a day including all the rapping and wrench tightening and so on!

 

hmmm

[kurthicks]

look what i started. bwahaha. I'm sure it's a fun route, but i'm not opposed to the FS, or anyone else for that matter, chopping it.

[bobinc]

Right. More like unbelievably dense andesite (at least in some spots).

[Alex]

There are not 12 bolts per pitch! On the first 5 pitches there are 22 bolts. The next pitches average something like 3 bolts per pitch to pitch 11, which has something like 8. After that, there are maybe less than 2 bolts per pitch not including anchors to the top of 18. The final pitches have more, maybe like 8 bolts per pitch?

[Cpt.Caveman]

After that, there are maybe less than 2 bolts per pitch not including anchors to the top of 18.

 

There must be one bolt per pitch then.

[Dru]

i must have been thinking of condorphlamin' addiction

[Alex]

Just averages. On a coulple of the pitches there are none, actually. Def not a sporto clip up like Condorphamine.

[Lambone]

Poll

[Cpt.Caveman]

Just averages. On a coulple of the pitches there are none, actually. Def not a sporto clip up like Condorphamine.

 

I'm not really interested in Garfield. I'd rather take pictures of flowers or watch water freeze.

 

But I am aware of some people that will bolt anything they can. The funny thing is I read in one of those "climber\loser or rockandloser rags" about one of the route setters claiming something to the effect of nobody is going to complain about too many bolts on that one.

 

Man way to stir some shit up for himself. If maybe he shut his pie hole he might have been better off than spraying it out in such a way to climber ragazines.

 

Then drilling in wilderness and cutting in trails. It's like they ask for it. I guess they don't really give a fuck is what it spells to me. Not like I am going to cop it and chop it (or maybe I will if I got riled up) but just some perspective...

[Dru]

There are not 12 bolts per pitch! On the first 5 pitches there are 22 bolts. The next pitches average something like 3 bolts per pitch to pitch 11, which has something like 8. After that, there are maybe less than 2 bolts per pitch not including anchors to the top of 18. The final pitches have more, maybe like 8 bolts per pitch?

 

22 plus 15 plus 8 plus (2x7) plus 40 =99, round it off 100 bolts. yes or no?

 

then 2-bolt anchors, let's say 21 anchors because of that bit in the middle - another 42 bolts, final total - 142.

[Alex]

There are actually a few topos online (one's a to-scale PDF) that give precise numbers.

[Lambone]

what is your point Dru?

[Dru]

I want to know the hole count so I can compare it to a "traditional" bolted route route like the Grand Wall or the East Butt on SEWS