Ade Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 So I've finally come to the conclusion I need to learn to climb offwidths. Can anyone recommend any good ones to go practice on in the 5.7 - 5.10a/b range? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 g-m route at index is a good start...got a couple pitches of .9 ow..... there is another on in the inner walls area of index...but i forget what it is called.....10ish range good stuff...though pretty hard... mmmmmm...mind is blank....damn work! takes all the important functions and uses them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 At Index try GM pitch 2 & 3 both 5.9. Try Damnation 5.8 at Castle Rock in Leavenworth and Hidden Crack 5.8 at Givlers Dome. The Flame 5.8 at Midnight gets wide as well and is really fun with a setting that can't be beat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 fredrog, it is called madsens chimmney....#5s dont really fit.....specialed and i backed off this thing in the spring...too scary...we opted for la cucharacha..it didnt pro very well....then i got back from utah and sent it in like no time....didnt even pro it up......cuz it is only 50ft or so long and after many proless rope length pitches i was way bold.....fun squezze though and there is that .10b/.9 ow at lil si.....it has even been desecrated by bolts....i guess big cams dont fit in the sporto micro pack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 That crack aint no 10b maybe soft 5.9 at little si. 4.5 camalot works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 Everything is 5.8 until you fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 Right on FLick- If you fall and break a bone it's 5.12 If you fall on TR it's still 5.8 If you fall with merely sanpapered skin then it's 5.9 If you fall and tweak a knee etc nothing broken it's 5.10 If you dont even try it it's 5.nutsinguts [ 08-26-2002, 01:25 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 Erik - That offwitdth at Index _ what's the pro? What about the last pitch of Narrow Arow Direct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 iz called behind the 8ball..... bring your dirt gear....i had not the pleasure to lead it(yet) maybe sunday! um brain sez....2 #4's and 2 #3's.....dat camolots! also "hard as hell" lives up to its name.....stardard rack for that 2 #'s and a #4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 Check out Tatoosh p2. That's a goodun. Also, Beak Beak Beak. Very protectable. Squirm inside and grovel. Some people say you can layback that one, but I haven't been able to figure it out. Oh, yeah, those are both at Index, and both rated 5.9. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 quote: Originally posted by trask: Hey ScottP, every time I look at your avatar it reminds me of the crazy cannibal lunatic in the movie "ConAir". Are you vegan? No, I'm a lacto/ovo/poulto vegetarian (whatever that means. That pic is Bug-Eye Earl from Redmeat Comics (www.redmeat.com) Here's a taste... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 Seems like the conclusion to Dr. Sniff (Index)is some kind of flair....I remember having nothing that would fit and it seemed like the crux to me. I was at Index one day when some unfortunate fellow on Dr. Sniff thought he was doing the second pitch of Princely Ambitions and fell onto that spike when he attempted to clip his third piece. I'm not sure that the response to his accident is typical of what one can expect at Index, but I've since determined never to break so much as a fingernail out there. OW's in the specified grade: Split Beaver, Squamish; the original start to Yak Crack, Coquihalla area, B.C.; 2nd pitch of the Gendarme on N. Ridge of Stuart; Easter Overhang (actually more like the best hand crack in Leavenworth); Damnation. There's a great 5.9 wide-jobby right of Stems-n-Seeds over in (disad-)Vantage, but I can't think of the name just now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 pope good one on dr sniff....awesome route....i get inside that thing...it turns into like preprogrammed fingers with some chimmeny technique....and a bit of thrutch bob's your uncle is the one at vantage you are thinking about..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 quote: Originally posted by erik: pope good one on dr sniff....awesome route....i get inside that thing...it turns into like preprogrammed fingers with some chimmeny technique....and a bit of thrutch bob's your uncle is the one at vantage you are thinking about..... You get any gear in that thing? I only remember thinking that the "crux" felt like disco and the flair felt like a mosh pit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klar404 Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 erik, I think you mean the climb just right of "Bobs your uncle". The rap station goes down it.Piegons shit and hang in it. It's pretty sweet. Oh, by the way, I dont think "Battered Sandwich" at index is off-width. I think its wide hands and then its a chimney. Its REAL stellar though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 I think you boys are talking about Steel Grill (5.9) at Vantage. In my opinion, the best crack there for the grade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 Skulduggery 10a and Split Beaver 10b in the Smoke Bluffs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 Boogers on a Lampshade 10a and Pissing On a Friend 10b at You Yangs and Josh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 Damnation Crack - Castle Rock Crack of Doom - Castle Rock Battered Sandwich - Index Prusik Peak - I guess Traveller's Buttress @ Lover's Leap Easter Overhang - Midnight Rock looks good Rollercoaster Chimney - Midnight Rock too Sagittarius - Index (do it all too not just to the roof belay) [ 08-26-2002, 12:35 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Schuldt Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 Battered Sandwich, at Private Idaho, at Index. You get your whole body into it at the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 NW Corner of North Early Winter Spire, WA Pass I think it is the third pitch. 5.9 Third and fifth pitchs of Lamplighter at Index. 5.8 Quarry Crack at Index is pretty wide as I remember. 5.9 2nd pitch of Tatoosh at Index. 5.9 Pitch 1 of Magic Fern at Index 5.9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 Andy Cairns told me Clean Corner at Squamish is great 5.8 OW have fun finding it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 quote: Originally posted by TimL: At Index try GM pitch 2 & 3 both 5.9. Try Damnation 5.8 at Castle Rock in Leavenworth and Hidden Crack 5.8 at Givlers Dome. The Flame 5.8 at Midnight gets wide as well and is really fun with a setting that can't be beat. There's a 5.9 OW on Madsen's Butress in the Icicle as well- can't remeber the name- but it's to the right of Cucaracha. Bring a couple #5's for that one. Flake Crack on Snag Crag (by Duty Dome) gets wide at the top and goes at 5.7 I think. Forking Crack 5.9+ on Icicle Buttress- that and ditto on Hidden Crack. Both kicked my ass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 Hey ScottP, every time I look at your avatar it reminds me of the crazy cannibal lunatic in the movie "ConAir". Are you vegan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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