[TR] The Tooth - Someone cut a rap anchor!!!!!!!!!!!!- Easy Route 9/6/2004

[mr.radon]

Climb: The Tooth - Someone cut a rap anchor!!!!!!!!!!!!-Easy Route

 

Date of Climb: 9/6/2004

 

Trip Report:

REPOST per admin request...

All right I go to take a novice out to the Tooth.

We left late to avoid the crowds. There was a party of two coming off and a party of three. No problem. I saw the party of two rap the gully were the climb starts. And I remeber checking out the rap sling there. Two pretty new slings were on the first rap, two that were so-so and one that was a little iffy. Half way up the party of three rap's past us, no big deal. They were here from South America (Argentian) on a month long vacation. They are total TOOLS!!!!

I saw them hike out the way you come in thinking why did they do that?

Well we rap off the summit and go set the rap for the gully. They cut all the slings! Even the two good ones that were like brand new. They also took the rap rings??? WTF???? There were two rap rings and they took them. They better not run into me again while they are out here. I can see pulling skank slings but to cut every single sling take the rings and leave the slings is uncalled for. The slings weren't even stuck they just didn't even bother to haul them out.

I wrapped a cord around the anchor and added two sling pieces so I could rap off the gully, it was getting late and this was much faster. If anyone heads up there bring a rap ring or two and some webbing. I wish I had gotten there names. Two Americans and there Argentian girlfriend.

Does anyone just cut a rap anchor even if all the slings are bad? I figure leave it so the rap rings stay, cut off the skank one(s) and add a new sling or just leave it alone.......

[layton]

did they just leave the old cut slings there?

[mr.radon]

Five slings; 2 new, 2 okay, 1 bad.

Cut in half, rings taken, left cut slings.

[iain]

someone left a bunch of cut slings on nooksack tower too. weird stuff. some rodent nest is probably pimping with some fine nylon trappings.

[Mtguide]

Inexcusable behavior;the only explanation has to be total ignorance(unlikely) or cheapskate/scrounge/thieves.Seems there's yet another "objective" danger showing up in climbing.Here's hoping their karma/justice catches up with them before they do this to anyone else.

 

[catbirdseat]

This post was moved to here from Spray. The supposed culprits were from Agentina where ethics are apparently quite different. Cutting out old bad slings is one thing, but cutting good slings and leaving them as trash is inexcusable. This for $5 worth of rap rings?

[mattp]

I don't think Argentinian ethics have anything to do with this.

[Cpt.Caveman]

Me either. And outright calling them tools is spray in the biggest fashion.

 

Maybe Radon should edit his trash out before you ask him to add more trash in.

[ashw_justin]

So they rappeled without using the slings... and considered the rap rings as booty? I guess they are just more hardcore than us. Or maybe they were trying to teach a lesson to the whimpy USA climbers?

[Cpt.Caveman]

I think it sounds like they are talking about the gulley to the northeast of pineapple pass which is not necessary to rappel. You can downclimb it or even walk around. Even if they did rappel off blocks - I think for the most part removing the stuff might be doing us a favor since it's just as fast to walk around.

[layton]

It was me, I did it.

[Cpt.Caveman]

Thanks

 

Sooooooo did they cut down the trees up there or what. The subject doesn't jive with what they say in the thread either. I mean isn't a sling attached to the anchor in some cases? Wouldn't that really mean they cut slings OMFG!!

[fleblebleb]

I think it sounds like they are talking about the gulley to the northeast of pineapple pass which is not necessary to rappel.

 

Nope, not that - rap anchors higher up on the route.

 

I was there with enem, we weren't exactly impressed with that party of three.

 

They dislodged a cantelope-sized rock when throwing rap ropes, it missed us by a yard or two. This was completely unnecessary, a wait of another 3-5 minutes would have had us clear out of the way.

 

We also watched them cut the anchors, although we thought they were just replacing old slings. But... the slings were in fine shape, I had just checked them before rapping.

 

So, yup, I think those guys are total tools. There were plenty of inexperienced folks there that day - one party had an anchor consisting of a dead tree clipped to a gear loop - but those guys had well worn gear and knew how to use it. No excuse, just bad style and lousy ethics. Feel free to move this thread to spray too, whatever

[Cpt.Caveman]

Interesting. Oh well - either way it's a good time to show a newbie how to make his or her own rap anchor and inspect others.

[eric8]

so the cut a rap anchor, not ethnics I think anyone here agrees with but it is an alpine climb so you should be prepared to make your own rap anchor, no?

 

As Arnold says "Stop Whining"

[Bug]

Yea. I guess so. That would allow me to finally use this 50 foot chunk of webbing I have stufffed in my gator too. Sorry but chopping established anchors is only done by assholes. Stap Vinink yur silf.

[Cpt.Caveman]

Doesnt sound like anyone cut the anchors. Sounds like they cut the slings around them

[fleblebleb]

so the cut a rap anchor, not ethnics I think anyone here agrees with but it is an alpine climb so you should be prepared to make your own rap anchor, no?

 

As Arnold says "Stop Whining"

 

Oh, I normally carry a roll of about nine dozen new rap rings, but you don't need any new webbing because you can just tie back together the tat left over when the previous set of rap rings was nicked. It's also very handy to have that stuff in place because it helps finding the location for your new anchor.

[Dru]

ethnics

[Bug]

ethnics

Yup. It's them damn ethnics what done it.

[iain]

Don't take my word for it but I think those bastards may have used 8 squares of toilet paper down at the restroom w/o replacing it too. What, do they think paper grows on trees? Er, oh wait, it does.

[fleblebleb]

Don't take my word for it but I think those bastards may have used 8 squares of toilet paper down at the restroom w/o replacing it too. What, do they think paper grows on trees? Er, oh wait, it does.

 

Ah, your stormtrooper would have been funnier here.

[Cpt.Caveman]

Isnt da toof a chossy fun climb!!

[mr.radon]

Someone asked me to make it clear what happened:

1) They cut the five slings that were around a large chockstone.

2) They then salvaged the rap rings (2)

3) They left the five cut slings, which were loose around the chockstone, none were wedged in.

So my greivance was not only did they cut the slings and take the rings but left the trash for me to haul out!

[JETT]

bring up your rockpecker and put some chains in on that sport climb. take the good slings and tie a water knot. at least they left the slings so you could find the anchor. although THat is shitty. the moral of the story is that argentinians should pick up their trash. do you need our validation to tell you this?