Gary_Yngve Posted August 13, 2004 Posted August 13, 2004 Climb: Prusik-S Face, not quite Date of Climb: 8/8/2004 Trip Report: We got off-route on the rightward-traversing pitch that leads to the base of the chimney system. Instead, we ended up at the base of a beautiful left-facing corner with a handcrack in the back of it. The crack fizzled at times, requiring insecure face moves above pro. We ended up on a ledge at the base of the final headwall of the SW face. Apparently we ended up on the 1984 S Face route, with the climbing above looking really damn hard. We bailed, discovering brand-new belay bolts going down the SW face... except they were 35 meters apart! After various hijinks and downleading the bottom pitch, we were on the ground again. We definitely want to go back and do the route (Burger-Stanley) for real... the advice we'd give is: 1) Nelson's description is a little misleading -- he describes pitch 3 (which is really pitch 2 with a 60m rope) as going up, tending slightly to the right. We went more than slightly to the right and thought that we overshot the going-right part. 2) If you look carefully from the ridge between Temple Lake and Lake Vivian, you can make out the ramp of trees that's the start of the traverse pitch, and you can make out the chockstone of the chimney. Keep that in mind to guide yourself on the route. Gear Notes: We cleaned the following off the mountain (we weren't the only ones to get lost up there): a stuck rope that we had to cut from a crack several biners half a dozen nuts bunch of slings There's a fixed 3.5 Camalot 20 feet off the ground in the 5.8 crack... we worked on it for a minute or two, but couldn't make any progress. Approach Notes: good swimming in Lake Vivian Quote
Szyjakowski Posted August 13, 2004 Posted August 13, 2004 the 1984 route is probably the offroute section you climbed....that area is hard to distinguish between what is what...could be part of Lady Godiva too. anyone know how to get in touch with kearney please PM me. Thanks. Quote
John Frieh Posted August 13, 2004 Posted August 13, 2004 Good work! S: Michael Layton is one person that has Kearney's info. Quote
Alex Posted August 13, 2004 Posted August 13, 2004 Maybe this will help http://www.mountainwerks.org/alexk/art/prusiksfaceroute.jpg Quote
eric8 Posted August 13, 2004 Posted August 13, 2004 i thought Lady Godiva was to the left of burgner stanley? not to the right because you can make out the lady siloutted on the west ridge which you won't be able to do if it was to the right of it sorry i don't have easy access to caj at this time Quote
Alpinfox Posted August 13, 2004 Posted August 13, 2004 Gary, You got lost on the SF of Prusik!?!?!? BWAHAHAHA! You should have made sure your partner didn't leave this in the car: And here is Alex's version (to save you the trouble of clicking back and forth): Quote
texplorer Posted August 13, 2004 Posted August 13, 2004 If I would have known there was that much booty up there I would have done that variation. A couple of years ago I soloed the west ridge and was downclimbing more on the north side and found a cool old chouinard nut. A prized booty piece! Quote
Alpinfox Posted August 13, 2004 Posted August 13, 2004 Actually, we only found three nuts, 5 biners (two of which we left behind on rappels), the rope (which was non-usable but I carried out), and four (usable) sewn slings. One of the belays had four spectra slings that were totally decayed. I'd never seen spectra slings that old/sunbleached. A couple were almost completely unravelled and looked like hair. I have attached a version of the above picture showing our (MY) poor route finding. Also, here is Marcel Duchamp's painting of the South Face: Quote
Szyjakowski Posted August 14, 2004 Posted August 14, 2004 (edited) i thought Lady Godiva was to the left of burgner stanley? it is to the left...gary and pax did not go right like they should have when following the S/B route.. Hey LAYTON hook me up with Kearney's Info..thanks. BTW: Gary/Pax- that 3.5 has been in the 5.8 crack for a number of years now...not mine but a few of those nuts and biners are from the rapel off the pedestal. Edited August 14, 2004 by Szyjakowski Quote
pope Posted August 15, 2004 Posted August 15, 2004 Where do you think you guys were on this photo? Quote
Dru Posted August 15, 2004 Posted August 15, 2004 ...and is that big red stain on the right blood??? Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted August 16, 2004 Author Posted August 16, 2004 Where do you think you guys were on this photo? Hey Pope, check out Pax's attachment in one of the previous posts. It shows our route overlayed with the B-S route. Here are some more pics: The beautiful LFC with the stuck rope: Pax on the second rappel. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 how high up were the rap stations and where on main photo? where on main photo is the beautiful lFC you mention? thanks. Quote
Alpinfox Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 Sizzy, See attachment. LFC = Left Facing Corner GAoBA = General Area of Bad-Assedness. The GAoBA is visible as the very steep (overhanging) white headwall above me in the rappelling picture ("Pax on second rappel"). End of Rap = Guess. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 thanks pax. so you guys ended up rapping down the main SB route after the yellow dots ended? or did you continue down the west face? Quote
Alpinfox Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 (edited) From the highest yellow dot we rappelled pretty much straight down the large "Super-dihedral" on the western side of the south face. We were too far west to be on the SB route. I edited the above attachment to show where our rappel ended. Take a look. Edited August 16, 2004 by Alpinfox Quote
Szyjakowski Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 do you mean the shadowed area? where are the bolted stations (yellow dots?) thanks. Quote
Alpinfox Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 (edited) Jeez!!! You are makin' me work here! The yellow dots are our off-route belay spots on the way UP. We rappeled further to climber's left in the large corner/dihedral system; the "shadowy area". The highest yellow dot was a bunch of slings around a horn. I backed this up with a piece of the stuck rope we took from the crack. It's a bombproof belay/rap station. One biner left there. 35m below this and off to the climber's right was the first bolted rap station. Two new 3/8" bolts with Fixe hangers and rings. About 10m below that was a single bolt. About 10m below the single bolt was another single bolt. We rapped off of that single bolt leaving a biner (backed it up with gear in the crack for first rappeler). 35m below that single bolt was another two bolt rap anchor. A 30m rap from there got us to a ledge about 15-20m above the ground marked "End of Rap" in my picture. I found a rusty, bent, 1/4 spinner there. WHEW! BTW: For some reason the changes I made to the above attachment weren't showing up on the upload, so I changed the file name and re-attached it to the post above. It seems to be working now. I'll attach it to this post as well for convenience, but they are the same thing. Edited August 16, 2004 by Alpinfox Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted August 16, 2004 Author Posted August 16, 2004 some more shots of the SW face: Quote
Szyjakowski Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 hey, hows if feel to be working? i am working too. can't you tell? thanks for the info pax...that helps a ton. i wonder who put those rapel stations in??? anyone know the answer to that question? tia Quote
larrythellama Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 i think it was the cool guys on from the cover of the metolius catalog from last summer? Quote
mattp Posted August 18, 2004 Posted August 18, 2004 If anybody is going there in the near future, take my TOPO for a test ride, and shoot me some comments (I'm particularly interested in trying to show the start of the climb and the right-trending pitch where Gary went astray). web page Quote
pope Posted August 18, 2004 Posted August 18, 2004 I don't know about upgrading to 5.10a on the last pitch. Sure it's a hard and sustained pitch, especially after grunting up the previous pitch (which I thought was harder) and after the long hike in. Maybe my memory is fuzzy, but I think that if the last pitch of Burgner-Stanley existed right off the ground, right next to Godzilla, it would probably be considered the easier between the two. I think the last pitch on the Burgner-Stanley has multiple 5.9 moves with adequate rests in between. For another comparison, think about classic 5.10- pitches such as Davis Holland (pitch 2) and Caboose at the Malamute. Quote
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