chucK Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 It sounds like you are unfamiliar with multipitch? The weather does not look too hot this weekend and if you usually climb at Smith then I'm sure heat won't be a problem. Outer Space and Orbit are good if you have your multipitch shit down. Well, even if you don't, on the weekend you'll probably have plenty of company at every belay to help you out . As I'm sure you've heard, Outer Space has the classic moderate granite crack. You can try out R&D (easy) with Cocaine Crack (classic 10a finger crack) thrown in for some spice. Then once at the top, try to find the BOB Wall. It has 5 or 6 sport (half ropelength) cracks, two of which are high quality. Another possibility is the Careno Crag area. The Regular Route is a good one for a stronger and less strong pair, as it goes 10b, 7, 8, 10b, the easier of which are cracks, the hard ones are gear protected, mostly faceclimbing. Once you get up to the top level, there's a bunch of quality single pitches. Though I haven't been there, from what I've heard, Dave's suggestion of Pearly Gates is a good one. Especially good if I am wrong about the heat. Castle Rock has great climbing, some classic cracks, and a lot of history. If you can deal with crowds, that's a place to go. Try Damnation Crack. You'll love it . Classic Crack is really no big hoopie do. Only go there if you're staying at the campground or have a 1/2 hour or 2 to kill. I'm sure there's more people on here that have more experience in Leavenworth, but that's some stuff I like. It might help if you give some more info (like how difficult) about what you are looking for. Chuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thinker Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by chucK: Outer Space and Orbit are good if you have your multipitch shit down. Well, even if you don't, on the weekend you'll probably have plenty of company at every belay to help you out ... We did Outerspace 7/27 and had the whole stinkin wall to ourselves. Talked to some guys who did it the day before and they had the same experience. The upper pitches of Outerspace were shady starting about 1pm. If you're lucky, Dogleg Crack and Meatgrinder won't have lines. They're easy to check, you can see em from the road. Both are topropable if you you're warming up or winding down for the day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 get coffee and cinnamon buns at homefires bakery in der morning before you climb... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thinker Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by chucK: Try Damnation Crack. You'll love it The chimney portion of Damnation doesn't protect well, in my opinion. I like to climb the 5.5 or 5.6 on the other side of Jello Tower and toprope Damnation. A 60 m rope allows the belayer to stand on the ground (as opposed to a top belay), a much better vantage point from which to watch your partner climb. It's a great route! Beware the start of Canary on Castle Rock. I recall being off the ground quite aways before I could put in my first piece of pro. Poor landing. Just a couple of factors to keep in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlander Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 Beware the start of Canary on Castle Rock. I recall being off the ground quite aways before I could put in my first piece of pro. Poor landing. Just a couple of factors to keep in mind.[/QB] I saw a visiter of the site take a grounder on Canary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attitude Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: quote:Originally posted by Attitude: Dr Flash Amazing is neither. As contrasted with yourself, who has provided a veritable cornucopia of helpful beta on the Leavenworth area. Before slandering the Doctor's good name again, please print out a copy of your post, roll the paper up into a small tube, and tap it firmly up your ass with a piton hammer or like device. With the paper placed thusly, find a comfortable seat, and meditate for several hours upon your worth as a person. Hopefully you will then realize that you must first better yourself before ever saying anything about Dr. Flash Amazing ever again. If you review the start of the thread, the poster asked for suggestions for "easy to moderate routes to climb while I'm there. I would prefer to try some granite cracks (I haven't even touched granite yet!), possibly even a short multi pitch..." This does not describe Outer Space at all. Sending ill-prepared novices up more difficult routes is one reason why Mountain Rescue stays busy. Useful beta: R&D is an interesting 4 pitch climb but routefinding isn't always obvious. Castle Rock is more straightforward - Saber and Midway (2 pitch, but can rappel off bolts after 1st pitch.) Mountaineers Dome: There is a nice 5.6 crack, but must be creative making an anchor at the top (walk off to the left). Oh, and Dr. Amazing Flash is neither. [ 08-08-2002, 03:03 PM: Message edited by: Attitude ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Thinker: quote:Originally posted by chucK: Try Damnation Crack. You'll love it The chimney portion of Damnation doesn't protect well, in my opinion. I like to climb the 5.5 or 5.6 on the other side of Jello Tower and toprope Damnation. A 60 m rope allows the belayer to stand on the ground (as opposed to a top belay), a much better vantage point from which to watch your partner climb. It's a great route! Beware the start of Canary on Castle Rock. I recall being off the ground quite aways before I could put in my first piece of pro. Poor landing. Just a couple of factors to keep in mind. why would you need to protect easy chimmney?? is not your body on that the belay?? last time i cranked that thing i cliped a fixed pin or two. side note(note: cheast beat) i hung out and drnk with TM Herbert this past weekend, he still cranks like a madman!! and parties hard too!! For those of you outta the loop, he is the fa'ist on damnation crack. also a thing to note TM was much more impressed with Tacoma then he was Seattle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Thinker: quote:Originally posted by chucK: Try Damnation Crack. You'll love it The chimney portion of Damnation doesn't protect well, in my opinion. I like to climb the 5.5 or 5.6 on the other side of Jello Tower and toprope Damnation. A 60 m rope allows the belayer to stand on the ground (as opposed to a top belay), a much better vantage point from which to watch your partner climb. It's a great route! Beware the start of Canary on Castle Rock. I recall being off the ground quite aways before I could put in my first piece of pro. Poor landing. Just a couple of factors to keep in mind. why would you need to protect easy chimmney?? is not your body on that the belay?? last time i cranked that thing i cliped a fixed pin or two. side note(note: cheast beat) i hung out and drnk with TM Herbert this past weekend, he still cranks like a madman!! and parties hard too!! For those of you outta the loop, he is the fa'ist on damnation crack. also a thing to note TM was much more impressed with Tacoma then he was Seattle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Attitude: Useful beta: R&D is an interesting 4 pitch climb but routefinding isn't always obvious. Use a 60-m rope and this is easily a 3-pitch climb. Way fun!! Oh yeah, the only route-finding problem I encountered was on the first pitch: go right, then up. After that, the 2nd pitch chimney is pretty obvious; from the top of the chimney, move right and start up some nice handcracks and it's all good from there. Greg W [ 08-08-2002, 01:55 PM: Message edited by: Greg W ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 Route finding on R&D isn't ovvious? Come on ... ths only problem would be if you followed Smoot's useless topo in his book which directs you past the obvious 5.5 slot to the 5.9 traverse under the roof on the first pitch. What the hell was that guy thinking? Givler's Crack is sweet and a good climb for someone not familiar with multi-pitch affairs. The bottom is a stiff 5.8 move off the ground which you can bypass by hiking up to the ledge on the right. Last weekend was my first at Leavenworth, I loved it. Enjoy! BTW, good luck finding a spot in a campground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Attitude: If you review the start of the thread, the poster asked for suggestions for "some granite cracks (I haven't even touched granite yet!), possibly even a short multi pitch..." This does not describe Outer Space at all. Sending ill-prepared novices up more difficult routes is one reason why Mountain Rescue stays busy. ... Oh, and Dr. Amazing Flash is neither. First of all, aside from a little bouldering, DFA had never touched granite before venturing up OS. Secondly, given the alpo hardperson nature of this forum, the Doctor figured 7 pitches wasn't that long, and 5.9 wasn't grossly hard, since DFA is constantly getting slagged for not being alpine enough. Seeing as how a trad gumby like DFA was able to do it, he figured most anyone could. So you are welcome to choke on your supercilious admonishments whilst inserting your incorrect assertion that DFA is neither up your poop chute. Not to mention, at least a few of your alpie compatriots also mentioned OS as well as Orbit (which, isn't Orbit a bit more difficult?). Why you have to pick on the sport climber, fucknutz? [ 08-08-2002, 02:04 PM: Message edited by: Dr Flash Amazing ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted August 8, 2002 Author Share Posted August 8, 2002 I've heard about both Outerspace and Orbit (how can you not?), but think they're both a bit too risky for sk and me to do together (kids to think about ). Thanks for all the info! Sounds amazing already... <-- Eating coffee and cinnamon buns... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icegirl Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 another vote for Givlers crack... Yeah, that first move was designed by a tall route setter But the climb ROCKS from there. Oh, and watch for rattlesnakes Not quite the "writhing hords" you find in Mazama, but we saw two last time we were up there... Layin' there soaking up the sun, enjoying themselves heartily until us good for nothing climbers arrived to interrupt their nap... [ 08-08-2002, 02:09 PM: Message edited by: icegirl ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 thanks everyone!!!!! jk is a solid leader and I climb solid 5.9ish but I haven't ever done a multi pitch though i have practiced some of the skills. You all have realy helped. hopefuly because the majority of our trip will be mid week we wont have alot of trouble finding camping. And I will be sure to check out the bakery, thanks dru, my sweet tooth is screaming all ready sk snakes???? no one told me there would be snakes!!! [ 08-08-2002, 02:11 PM: Message edited by: sk ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thinker Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by erik: why would you need to protect easy chimmney?? is not your body on that the belay?? last time i cranked that thing i cliped a fixed pin or two. just trying to tailor the beta to the needs of the person asking. for someone's first time on granite, it could be a bit of a surprise to end up in that chimney section on lead. Also, following that reasoning, why would you need to protect and easy crack? is not your fist your belay?? It all comes down to our respective skill levels and the level of risk we're will to take. NObody questions YOUR DEITY status. (OK, they do, but you make them pay for it....) Others of us are mere mortals and run a little more conservative game. The world wouldn't function well without one kind or the other...it's a symbiotic relationship. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attitude Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by Attitude: Useful beta: R&D is an interesting 4 pitch climb but routefinding isn't always obvious. Use a 60-m rope and this is easily a 3-pitch climb. Way fun!! Oh yeah, the only route-finding problem I encountered was on the first pitch: go right, then up. After that, the 2nd pitch chimney is pretty obvious; from the top of the chimney, move right and start up some nice handcracks and it's all good from there. Some people belay from above the chimney and break that pitch into two. The move to the right above is key for the moderate climber. There are several cracks that go up and over. I believe the one to the right is easier. Also one can undercling the flake to the right if they can't make the crack. Also it depends on where you start the first pitch. One alternative is to start lower on the buttress to the right. Agreed, fun climb. [ 08-08-2002, 02:43 PM: Message edited by: Attitude ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thinker Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by icegirl: another vote for Givlers crack... Yeah, that first move was designed by a tall route setter But the climb ROCKS from there. Oh, and watch for rattlesnakes Not quite the "writhing hords" you find in Mazama, but we saw two last time we were up there... Layin' there soaking up the sun, enjoying themselves heartily until us good for nothing climbers arrived to interrupt their nap... Friends of mine had a similar experience on Givlers. "We started the decent and decided to go grab some lunch before trying some other bolted routes on the dome. “Whoaaaa baby,” I shouted as I back-stepped to avoid a rattle snake. It slithered directly in front of my foot. “Holy smokes, that was close,” I said to MJ although she could not hear me because she had ran miles away out of fear. I can’t remember what first aid is for a snake bite I cried! My short stint as a ski patroller at summit west this year didn’t expose me to snake bites. What am I to do?!!! I’m supposed to be able to save lives! “Calm down, that malicious, flesh eating, snake refused your dirt-encrusted chaco-exposed smelly feet.” “Oh, that’s right.” I looked my feet over and they lacked fang marks. I’m alive, I’m alive! " excerpted from web page Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 i hear many cougar attacks have occured on givlers dome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 All the recommendations here are pretty much right on, but I'd underscore the recommendations for climbs on Castle Rock. For scenic moderates, with plenty of exposure and good belay ledges, you just can't go wrong at Castle Rock (unless, perhaps, you try the N. Ridge route). If you want to emphasize crack climbing, the Pearly Gates would be the place to go and (unlike Castle Rock) the routes there all have chains at the belays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: i hear many cougar attacks have occured on givlers dome. True. Unlike the West Side cougars, who only track horsecock-carrying individuals, East Side cougars are less discriminate. I suggest taking one of your children . Preferably the one you can run faster than, or who was bad the day before. Hey, you've got two and you can always make more! Or carry a boombox and blast the Queen: Greg W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attitude Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: quote:Oh, and Dr. Amazing Flash is neither. First of all, aside from a little bouldering, DFA had never touched granite before venturing up OS. Secondly, given the alpo hardperson nature of this forum, the Doctor figured 7 pitches wasn't that long, and 5.9 wasn't grossly hard, since DFA is constantly getting slagged for not being alpine enough. Seeing as how a trad gumby like DFA was able to do it, he figured most anyone could.[/QB] Exactly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icegirl Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 reminds me of a day out a Middle E. Wall at vantage. Partner backed off a BEAUTIFUL crack 'cause it hissed at him. Twice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 quote: I saw a visiter of the site take a grounder on Canary. Then he fucked up because you can protect the climb so that you can jump off anywhere in the first 30 feet and not deck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 Mitch, I would agree with you but to be fair I think it should be noted that the placements are not totally straight forward stuff-the-cam type spots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thinker Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 OK, I gotta ask. Are you protecting the direct start, or the crack/dihedral? to the left of the direct start? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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