Freeway Gunshow 5.10a

[512dude]

So there is supposedly a new climb in the EXIT 38 area. Anyone know how to access this area? I have pics of some of the new areas around the 38 where the bolts are so new that the rock dust still sparkles around them. Trade ya.

 

[ 08-02-2002, 02:57 PM: Message edited by: 512dude ]

[Uncle_Tricky]

According to Smoot, this sport slab is one of "the best friction climbs in Washington" and a "New Classic" where you "seem to be clipping a bolt every time you make a move" (18 of them if you do it in a single pitch!!!) Plus you get to enjoy the sound of nearby freeway traffic.

 

See here for details.

 

[ 08-02-2002, 07:36 PM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ]

[plexus]

18 bolts for 120 feet?!!!! WTF?!!!

 

That's a bolt for every 6.67 feet. Best friction climb in the state...I don't care if it's the best friction climb in the world...No friggin' way would I go back to that place

[Cpt.Caveman]

Best friction climb in the state I dunno which is best.

 

First one that springs to mind is orbit. But plenty of others like WR Prusik or something.

 

I think that dude is cool that put it up personally met him once. Never done the route probably never will.

 

I think he is catering to the people that want absolute safety and safe climbs are ok I suppose. Look at the ethics established in the area........ For one.

 

What can you expect and I dont really care to be honest but like to babble.

[Uncle_Tricky]

Capt., surprised you mention Orbit and friction together--just climbed it yesterday and found not one friction move. Very fun though.

 

As far as WA friction goes, I'd vote for Darrington or Static Point. Runouts below the grade are an integral part of the slab experience!

[Cpt.Caveman]

UT couple of friction moves out on the slab for me. Done it 4 times already. But hey if you found jams all the way cool. No friction on the upper knobs of 2 pitches de slab. Slingin horns for me either

 

Whatever you be the man since I was working a 12 hour day

 

[ 08-02-2002, 07:54 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

[Uncle_Tricky]

Yeah, that slab/corner out onto the face pitch is a kick. I guess I think about Orbit as mostly gear-protected face climbing with some hand and finger jams thrown in.

 

When I think of friction climbs, I think of nothing but smears for feet, where your hands are just there to keep your upper body balanced. But it's true--we all use friction on almost all climbs.

[Cpt.Caveman]

Word up havin fun adn still will call it one of my fav friction routes around. There is friction no doubt. How many feet until cracks or should I say how many cracks did you actually need for pro on the last 2 pitches! and was there any friction in between

 

[ 08-02-2002, 09:17 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

[allison]

A bolt every 6.67 feet? Dang that's even too many bolts for me and quite frankly, that's saying something!!

[Cpt.Caveman]

whatever. Have fun

[RedMonk]

damn you could aid that route....an aid face climb...who'd a thunk it?

[richard_noggin]

quote:

---

Originally posted by allison:

A bolt every 6.67 feet? Dang that's even too many bolts for

me

and quite frankly, that's saying something!!

---

Don't get on the band waggon and start dis'in things you haven't done.

It could come around to bite you in the

I am off for the weekend lets see who can have the most fun

Hope you have fun this weekend Allison ,Its the name of the game.

 

[ 08-03-2002, 07:30 AM: Message edited by: richard noggin ]

[Jens]

Say what you want, but the line looks really sweet!

 

I hiked to the base of it once in the rain before it was bolted. I wanted to do it. I figured a few bolts and lots of small gear.

 

The moves look really cool. More cereberal than the mundane smear, smear, smear, smear of Darrington?

 

Speaking of slabs, what is the hardest slab route in our state? Rotues that have not been overtaken by moss that is.

[NoBolt]

Most difficult slab: Anything on Sonic slab at Index! I'm still working that damn Terminal Preppie.

[Cpt.Caveman]

The hardest slab I ever tried to follow was at Index was lead by a partner of mine over 50, a way hardman old schooler I met in the parking lot one day.

He freed astroman in 1979 being the largest dude to fit in the harding slot after his ascent. Mentioned the beta for him was wearing a slick shirt He aint no small skinny guy and is about as mellow yellow as they come. He eats 5.11 for breakfast

 

Wham was the route at Index. I know it's not 5.13 but very good and tough (I never finished it and no shame either)! Zoom is a spanker too!

 

Here is the tough guy leading 5.12+ sport at Little Si for breakfast http://www.alpinelite.com/images/ray/Technorigine.JPG I have seen him onsight 5.12a and he has done 5.13 as well. Likes trad and still climbs with me even though my max is near 5.6. Way cool dude!

 

 

[ 08-03-2002, 11:05 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

[allthumbs]

hey capt.

hope ya have a great time in the rockies

go easy on the sheep...leave some for the

rest of us. hahahah

trask

[Cpt.Caveman]

Thanks trask and sk I hope to send these 2 peaks if possible but logistics are in the air to my knowledge. If not the backup plan will go into effect

[512dude]

Found this area and others this weekend...the slab route is good but its 5.8 and yes overly bolted. Fun but not a 3 star route in my opinion. Too much freeway noise and lack of wilderness ambience. Most of the other new lines all go at 5.10a or less except a thinner slab line higher up that is 5.10d. The stuff looks chossy but is surprisingly intact. The steeper climbs are jug filled.

 

Enjoy

[Peter_Puget]

512dude -

 

Are you're out trolling!

[Peter_Puget]

Anyone else with a TR for this guy?