cams and nuts

[Dru]

camming nut eating

[fenderfour]

Cheap Gear:

Forged Friends #1-4 (9 cams) $277

 

Huevos (stoppers) $60 #1-#13

 

Trango Nutz #1-#8 $42

 

No shipping charges from Gearexpress.com

[boatskiclimbsail]

My partner and I over the course of several weeks proved that it was possiblt to open a beer with any and every piece of gear on the rack.

 

That being said, get nuts 4-13 and hexes 4-9 and climb every 5.8 you can find with those before you waste your money on cams. You should be able to remove 98% of your placements without a nut tool, but you might want one anyway. Tran yourself not to reach for it immediately!! Nothing is worse than having a second fiddle with a nut tool for a half hour when a quick yank in the right direction will pop it free. *gets off soapbox*. Glad to see you moving over from the dark side.

[Alpinfox]

 

Fascinating!

 

How do you open a beer with a small stopper WITHOUT using anything else (like the edge of a table or a rock or something)?

 

Open a beer with a belay device?

with a tcu?

 

Inquiring minds want to know.

[selkirk]

Have to second Slaphappy,

DMM Walnuts are da-bomb. For some reason they just seat like nothing else. Have tried the BD's and Smiley's but they just don't compare.

For hexes, go Wild Country, nice and light, and quite useful in the mid to large sizes, 6,7,8, and possibly 5 and 9.

pink, red and brown tri-cams are awfully handy as well, they'll protect things nothing else can.

As for cams.... I've got DMM's with a few metolius TCU"s in the small sizes. The DMM's are reasonably cheap, and light as can be. Also, the same price for all the DMM's, where the big camalot's and power cams get pricey.

 

my 2 cents....

[Greg_W]

I agree on Wild Country hexes, but get the CURVED HEXES. They're super nice.

[jkrueger]

You should be able to remove 98% of your placements without a nut tool, but you might want one anyway. Tran yourself not to reach for it immediately!! Nothing is worse than having a second fiddle with a nut tool for a half hour when a quick yank in the right direction will pop it free. *gets off soapbox*.

My partner gets really pissed off when I yank on his nuts like that.

 

Nut tool = booty gear

[selkirk]

Does wild country even make hexe's that aren't curved?

[Kevin_Matlock]

I realize the ignorance of this question, but here goes-

Why would one want BD nuts AND trango nutz AND stoppers etc etc etc.

Aren't these all used in the same way: ya' stuff it in a rock crack to save your own crack in case of a fall?

I have a single lonely tricam and a set of BD nuts so I'm still working on building my rack... what point am I missing here?

[catbirdseat]

Some of the brands have slightly different shapes, and one shape may fit better in a particular placement than another.

[selkirk]

BD nuts = stoppers, and no real need for multiple types unless your looking to double up, which can come in handy on occasion.

[lancegranite]

Don't neglect the passive protection.

[JosephH]

If I were starting out all over again now I'd get:

 

One full set of comparable Metolius or Alien cams

All four Hybrid Aliens

Brass and aluminum HB offset stoppers (these are the absolute best)

One set of Metolius Curves or Old DMM Wallnuts (fatter than the new ones)

One Set of Ball nuts

[selkirk]

If I were starting out all over again now I'd get:

 

One full set of comparable Metolius or Alien cams

All four Hybrid Aliens

Brass and aluminum HB offset stoppers (these are the absolute best)

One set of Metolius Curves or Old DMM Wallnuts (fatter than the new ones)

One Set of Ball nuts

 

sounds like the beginnings of an aid rack!