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Posted

Just because "give it up" works on your ladies doesn't mean I'm gonna be that easy Michael... wink.gif I’m a four beer minimum* before you can start taking advantage of me…

 

First things first... I am in desperate need of some route specifics for Girth Pillar. If anyone has been to at least the bivy ledge (top of 2) or possesses intimate knowledge (pitch lengths come to mind) of the route from a reliable source; please pm me... I will make it worth your time. Speaking of which, does anyone know where specialed is? Specialed: check your pms or email... If I got this information, I might be a little more reluctant to share about NNB…

 

Speaking of NNB… I hesitate to post TRs for climbs I've done prior to joining the board; especially when climbers who have accomplished far more than I ever will (ex. Lowell Skoog) don’t. Case in point; you don’t see him posting a TR for any of the many FAs he did prior to cc.coms creation. If anything, I feel like it would come across as a weak attempt to further promote my already oversized ego, and we all know there isn’t much room left on this site for egos. And if anything, I haven’t earned it.

 

If you are in search of beta for NNB, pm me… I’ll gladly help in any way I can (if it isn’t already apparent from my ninja like quickness to spray beta on anyone who asks about a route I have done…). Michael: you interest in nailing the butt? Got plans for the 4th holiday? Holla at your boy!

 

*a sliding scale is currently in place; pm me with a pic of yourself and I can let you know if you qualify…

Posted

On the otherhand, Lowell will come forth with beta on things he's done when asked about it, and other people hold forth on routes "of interest" they've done in years past when folks ask. MattP didn't hesitate when asked about Yoccum Ridge this winter, despite it having been maybe 8 years since he'd done it. The high activity rate of the posters here is one of the assets of the site, but so is the depth of experience represented. The NNB is in a special category of hard routes (for the Cascades) that hasn't seen much traffic, and folks are curious. Much as everyone wants to know what the protection and descent are like on Nooksack Tower, folks would like to hear some about the NNB, and (though I could well be wrong) I think you're the only source here.

Posted

And like I said; I'll gladly share any and all beta I have; however I won't go as far as to post a TR. I intend to get back on it this summer (I hope you're reading this Brock and McKenzie...) and will post a recent TR. But until then people will need to start a thread or better: pm me with specific questions.

 

Girth Pillar beta? Please?

Posted

when you say that you intend to get back on it does that mean you failed to top out then? were you on the aid route or one of the burdo free routes?

Posted

Here you go. Your turn now.

 

I climbed the Girth Pillar in 1988. However, I spent a lot of tent time last year comparing notes with someone who did it a few years ago, because we were trying to determine if the major rockfall in 1994(?) had changed the route substantially. So…

 

The bivy ledge at the base of the true pillar is good but relatively long and narrow. We slept unroped, but end to end. In July, there was no snow on the ledge, however we were able to fill a stuff sack with snow by rapelling half a pitch down climbers right of the ledge and climbing back up. Getting up to the ledge generates many different stories – I think the major difficulty is getting established on the rock from the Ice Cliff Glacier. This seems to vary by year and time of year, but the consensus is that the first pitch is loose, wet and dirty (people say anything from 5.8 to 5.10) with many large loose blocks; it improves the closer you get to the base of the pillar.

 

girth p_jumar bw.jpg

steve cleaning pitch 2 (jumaring w/pack)

 

From the ledge:

P1 is relatively short (<100’) up the smooth face then hooking right to an obvious sloping ledge. 5.11 or A1

P2 heads back left, out a crack and flake system that turns vertical, becoming hand sized, to a hanging belay at a small chockstone in the crack. 150’, 5.10

P3 Continues up the crack as it narrows, reaching a fixed nut at 100’ 5.10 to here. Pendulum left to another crack system approx. 20’ (I think this is 11+ if done free, not that I’d know)

From here, Mark and my memories diverge, presumably because of the rock fall – from the pendo, he remembers climbing on the scar (clean, newly cleaved rock, fair amount of sand & grit). We belayed in an alcove 60’ and directly above the pendo nut to simplify cleaning.

P4 Easier climbing (unless it’s raining), starting at 5.8 and getting easier.

 

From here to the false summit is much easier, mostly low 5th.

Posted

NOLSe, your 1st post kinda makes folks seem like A-holes for posting a TR of a climb or F.A. Don't be so frickin' humble, I'm not buyin' it.

Actually I'm not interested in climbing it. There are pleny of routes like it in the N.Cascades that haven't been climbed. Unless of course you think it's a must do classic?

I just want to know what it was like? Post a pic!

I have my "super secret" list too and will post like a full on chestbeat b/c I know it makes my day when I read a TR from someone who did something cool (esp. with pics).

 

So NOLSe, please tell me if I am HOT or NOT? How many beers is this? It's from when I walked around barefoot by accident at the guitar string factory.

 

136feet3-med.jpgwazzup.gif

Posted

Forrest: thanks! Nice pic! Check your pms for a few others questions if you don't mind.

 

Dru/others: Yes I was on the aid route. I made it as high as the bivy ledge 2/3 up the route (like I said in the original thread that started this all). The weather turned south over night and we bailed. As I DID NOT top out, I do not consider that I have climbed the route… I apologize if people were confused on this fact; it wasn’t my intention to imply I have summited.

 

Yes I did make it past the crux of the route, but until I top out I contend I haven’t done it (I believe you all will agree with me). As most would agree the aid is the crux, I can offer rack specifics as well as advice on managing the rope madness for the descent. NNB is on my list for the summer, I am in search of one person to make a team of 4... IF you are interested and have significant aid experience drop me a pm. I firmly believe it can go clean.

 

All of you that have sent me pms so far, it will take me a day or two to answer them (work strikes again); I will get to them soon.

 

Let the bashing begin...

Posted

136feet3-med.jpg

 

So I was in vegas, and i met this girl, only she was really a guy but i didn't know it, and s/he said s/he was gonna suck my toes, but ow! s/he bit them off.... these pins are all that's holding them on!

Posted

Here is another picture of the girth.

 

stuart4.jpg

 

This is shot from the ledge below where the dificult climbing starts. It is very loose and crappy below where this was shot.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Bump.

 

Recent discussion with individuals who have climbed this route prior to or after the rock fall has raised a number of questions that none of us can answer or reach a consensus on.

 

I have contacted everyone I know who has climbed this route; unfortunately this is a short list (my fault… not the routes). If you have climbed or attempted this route or know someone who has and have not got a pm could you contact me?

 

Additionally: if you have higher resolution pics of the pillar from any vantage point could you let me know (pre or post rock fall). They would greatly help.

 

Finally: I realize this thread is in spray but I would like to keep the discussion (if any) limited to the pillar. Thanks in advance!

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 years later...

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