Bolting Hard Trad Routes

[MrDoolittle]

When it comes to bolting hard trad routes, should you place the bolts near obvious rests, or next to hard-to-get placements?

[catbirdseat]

This is almost word for word the same exact troll you have used in the past.

[fenderfour]

Is somebody bored?

[ashw_justin]

Yeah well I usually like to put them in as close to the crack as possible, to give the climber that "trad climb" feeling...

[texplorer]

This is a Troll.

 

[texplorer]

Or you could put them IN the crack like Toes of the Fisherman at Smith

[skyclimb]

I personally prefer the bolts placed near the cruxes, just outside of the crack. They make really good footholds, and sometimes even add to the asthetic value of the crack

[ashw_justin]

Some of my best wired stopper placements on trad were on hangerless bolts that I drilled in next to the crack.

 

Edited April 21, 2004 by ashw_justin

[tomtom]

Duct tape.

[Ratboy]

I personally prefer the bolts placed near the cruxes, just outside of the crack. They make really good footholds, and sometimes even add to the asthetic value of the crack

 

You're talking about climbing, right?

[billcoe]

Doolittle, why even waste your time, just bring a ladder and climb right past the hard shit.

 

 

Then bolt the ladder to the wall if you think you might come back for a 2nd try should the first one fail cause the ladder was too steep. You could bash the aluminum directly into the crack it's leaning on.

 

Yup.

 

The you could claim "first ladder ascents" of lots of new stuff. It would open up all kinds of possibilities. You could even do a guide book.

[Gripped]

Doolittle, why even waste your time, just bring a ladder and climb right past the hard shit.

 

 

Then bolt the ladder to the wall if you think you might come back for a 2nd try should the first one fail cause the ladder was too steep. You could bash the aluminum directly into the crack it's leaning on.

 

Yup.

 

The you could claim "first ladder ascents" of lots of new stuff. It would open up all kinds of possibilities. You could even do a guide book.

Sounds like some climbs in Europe...

[fenderfour]

Maybe Doolittle can pioneer some Via Ferrata routes in the US. How 'bout we start with SEWS?

[MrDoolittle]

A lot of Squish climbs could use a ladder to the first bolt.

 

I think I'd prefer rap-laddering of laddering on lead. And with an aluminum ladder, you could fix it in place like Gripped suggests above without damaging the rock by beating the top of the thing into cracks like a bashie. But would a copper ladder be better?

Edited April 22, 2004 by MrDoolittle

[Off_White]

Screw that Via Ferrata noise, what we need at Washington Pass is a Telepherique.

 

[MrDoolittle]

Yeah, it is a bit of a hike getting into those climbs. Maybe a tunnel inside of liberty bell, you could drive to the top, and walkways between the summits for link-ups.

[catbirdseat]

Be careful or you might get inquiries from European contractors asking where they can submit bids.

[glacier]

Whatever you do, make sure that you space the bolts 3-4 feet apart, so that the crux is still fiddling with clips and such instead of the gear.