Squid Posted April 21, 2004 Posted April 21, 2004 Cool thread PP.. Let's do this for everything- get a REAL consensus rating (we have the technology, lets employ it)! Quote
ashw_justin Posted April 21, 2004 Posted April 21, 2004 You can adjust ratings on rockclimbing.com too... Quote
Gripped Posted April 21, 2004 Posted April 21, 2004 Which is harder 5.10+ or 5.11a? Which is harder 5.8+ or 5.9? Quote
Gripped Posted April 21, 2004 Posted April 21, 2004 PS... Awesome thread idea, throw up some more PP! Quote
Pandora Posted April 21, 2004 Posted April 21, 2004 I can't rate them without having climbed any of these routes, but I want to see the results Quote
Peter_Puget Posted April 21, 2004 Author Posted April 21, 2004 (edited) Using and incredibly complicated method I have sumamrized the poll results @12:38pm. I threw out all votes for >10b<5.7. (Yea I know I meant to type 5.8) See attachment. Ordering is from least consistent with guidebook rating to most consistant. The obvious conclusion is that those areas with the most rainfall have the worst guidebooks! PP PS _ Just ignore the typos! Edited April 21, 2004 by Peter_Puget Quote
catbirdseat Posted April 21, 2004 Posted April 21, 2004 which one is absolutely nothing? It is the middle of five routes on We Did Rock. It used to appear as 5.8 in an earlier guidebook, but somehow got upgraded. The other four routes are definitely harder, especially Blockhead on the far right, which I would give a 5.9+ or a 5.10a- if such a thing existed. Quote
Gripped Posted April 21, 2004 Posted April 21, 2004 which one is absolutely nothing? It is the middle of five routes on We Did Rock. It used to appear as 5.8 in an earlier guidebook, but somehow got upgraded. The other four routes are definitely harder, especially Blockhead on the far right, which I would give a 5.9+ or a 5.10a- if such a thing existed. Oh! I mixed up absolutely nothing with Blockhead... yeah - Blockhead is a solid 5.9 (for one sequence of moves) Absolutely nothing is like 5.8 (at the most). Quote
minx Posted April 21, 2004 Posted April 21, 2004 which one is absolutely nothing? It is the middle of five routes on We Did Rock. It used to appear as 5.8 in an earlier guidebook, but somehow got upgraded. The other four routes are definitely harder, especially Blockhead on the far right, which I would give a 5.9+ or a 5.10a- if such a thing existed. Oh! I mixed up absolutely nothing with Blockhead... yeah - Blockhead is a solid 5.9 (for one sequence of moves) Absolutely nothing is like 5.8 (at the most). you guys are so lame. absolutely nothing was my first 5.9 sport lead. please let me think it was 5.9 (i gave it 5.8) Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted April 21, 2004 Posted April 21, 2004 (edited) Which is harder 5.10+ or 5.11a? Which is harder 5.8+ or 5.9? .10+ = .10c/d < .11a .8+ = pretty hard for 5.8 < .9 Edited April 21, 2004 by Dr_Flash_Amazing Quote
stinkyclimber Posted April 21, 2004 Posted April 21, 2004 .10+ = .10c/d < .11a .8+ = pretty hard for 5.8 < .9 I seem to remember reading somewhere or other (maybe here) a more realistic ordering of grades, that went something like this (based on my memory, and personal experience up to easy 11s), from easier to harder: 5.4 to 5.8 5.10a 5.9 5.8+ 5.10b 5.9+ 5.11a 5.10c 5.8 squeeze 5.10d 5.11b 5.10+ 5.9 ow 5.12a 5.11c 5.11d 5.10 ow 5.12b 5.11+ 5.12c and so on... up to the max: Rockies VI 5.9 A2 Other interpretations of our beloved YDS? Quote
jja Posted April 21, 2004 Posted April 21, 2004 ok thanks cbs. the climb just to the right of absolute nothing has more awkward moves to get over the bulge - maybe those moves are 5.9 but AN is probably an 8. What you're calling blockhead is the climb on the right that does a little traverse then goes up diagonally and ends at some funky homemade anchors? If it is that's the best route in that section, I thought it was fun. The second best is probably just to the left - the one that's the last of the line of slab routes. I'll be there tomorrow after work, so I'll report back here with move by move beta Quote
fern Posted April 21, 2004 Posted April 21, 2004 5.4 to 5.8 Culbert 4th class 5.10a 5.9 5.8+ 5.10b Croft 4th class 5.9+ 5.11a Hank Mather 5.8 5.10c 5.8 squeeze 5.10d 5.11b 5.10+ 5.9 ow 5.12a 5.11c 5.11d 5.10 ow 5.12b 5.11+ 5.12c and so on... up to the max: Rockies VI 5.9 A2 Quote
CascadeClimber Posted April 22, 2004 Posted April 22, 2004 5.4 to 5.8 Culbert 4th class 5.10a 5.9 5.8+ Beckey "Somewhat Brushy Approach" 5.10b Croft 4th class Beckey "Obvious Gully" 5.9+ 5.11a Hank Mather 5.8 5.10c 5.8 squeeze Beckey "Scramble" 5.10d 5.11b 5.10+ 5.9 ow Beckey "4th Class" 5.12a 5.11c 5.11d 5.10 ow 5.12b 5.11+ 5.12c and so on... up to the max: Rockies VI 5.9 A2 Quote
Gripped Posted April 22, 2004 Posted April 22, 2004 Beckey "4th Class" Becky "4th Class" => 5.5 without any pro. Quote
catbirdseat Posted April 22, 2004 Posted April 22, 2004 I think that route #4 between Absolutely Nothing and Blockhead is called Some Drugs. There is a trick to it such that if you know it, the crux isn't hard at all. There is a place where you need to put your foot behind you against an opposing face, or something like that. The fun is in figuring it out. When it seems hard, start thinking creatively. BTW, you're supposted to put the phrase "We did" before all the route names. Quote
E-rock Posted April 22, 2004 Posted April 22, 2004 Wow I love the insider beta on X38. It makes the area sound SOOOO intrguing. Quote
catbirdseat Posted April 22, 2004 Posted April 22, 2004 I know it's fashionable to knock Exit 38, but hey, it beats climbing in the gym on a pleasant weekday evening. Quote
RuMR Posted April 22, 2004 Posted April 22, 2004 I know it's fashionable to knock Exit 38, but hey, it beats climbing in the gym on a pleasant weekday evening. actually, it really doesn't... Quote
Peter_Puget Posted April 22, 2004 Author Posted April 22, 2004 Attached is a summary of the poll at 9am this morning. I calculated the rating by assigning a value to each poll option as follows: 5.8 =8, 5.9=9, 5.10a=10, 5.10b=11. I then multiplied the number of votes for each option by the option’s assigned values. Summed the results and divided by the total number of votes. Again I ignored the fifth option. The most accurately rated route according to the calculation method is the Fun 5.9 at Royal Columns. (Check out the almost perfect bell curve) Since the actual identity of this route is uncertain I give the runner up the title: Moonshine Dihedral at Smith! Attacked from a different angle the route with the greatest number of respondents agreeing with the guidebook rating is Outerspace! What’s amazing is how diverse the opinions turned out to be. PP Quote
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