none_dup1 Posted March 15, 2001 Posted March 15, 2001 There is a topo and route description for this route in Leavenworth at the Redmond Vertical World. I contacted one of the route's creators, and he was nice enough to mail me a copy of the topo. It looks like a great route. It's on Condor Buttress, way up there. Seven pitch, 5.10b, all bolts. Has anyone out there done it? Thanks, John Sharp Quote
Guest Posted March 16, 2001 Posted March 16, 2001 well, here i am bitching again. the question was, "has anyone done it?". and once again all the posts hold no response to the question. i have not climbed the route, sorry. Quote
erik Posted March 16, 2001 Posted March 16, 2001 bonbon, i don't place bolts. and everything else is a rumor. Quote
rayborbon Posted March 16, 2001 Posted March 16, 2001 Oh I thought it was yours just because of the name BTW why the Richard Simmons do? If you go to Thai country you can get the girlies for goot price. [This message has been edited by rayborbon (edited 03-15-2001).] Quote
Alex Posted March 16, 2001 Posted March 16, 2001 Baltimore, you'll get over it eventually.. Alex Quote
rayborbon Posted March 16, 2001 Posted March 16, 2001 Baltimore I was just having fun I understand people are just looking for info sometimes. However I think MrGoodTime may forgive me Quote
Dru Posted March 16, 2001 Posted March 16, 2001 There was already a bunch of discussion of this very route including beta from the first ascencionist under the "8-mile buttress" thread. Deja vu! Quote
none_dup1 Posted March 16, 2001 Author Posted March 16, 2001 Thanks, Dru. I missed it the first time around, and will go back to find it. Sorry for being dense. John Quote
none_dup1 Posted March 16, 2001 Author Posted March 16, 2001 Ron was nice enough to mail me the topo. Looks like a fun one. Thanks everyone. John Quote
whillans Posted March 16, 2001 Posted March 16, 2001 Baltimore, You have made "friendly old" Whillans turn aggro... You're an unregistered user who I've never seen post ANYTHING before except to bitch about the tone of certain postings or that there is uneccessary static in the postings. Welcome to the Internet pardner...yup-yup... Not trying to be the police myself, but who asked you uh? First identify yourself, start a seperate thread if you have an issue, and let the public decide or just get used to the general tone of the board...don't just come up on the net like you're the supreme commander and start spraying opinion trying to make it law...go try to flex your muscle somewhere else... I have not climbed the route either...THANKS! Quote
Guest Posted March 17, 2001 Posted March 17, 2001 unfortunately i am not the supreme commander, but i love to bitch. to ask a question like "who asked you?" in a public forum is pretty ignorama. it's public dude, your asking everyone when you post in a public setting. i know that i am going to get ripped on for this post because it's obvious that most of you know each other and many are probably friends. but someone needs to break up this incestual lovefest thats going on. some people just want some route info or an answer to a question. it must be frustrating to post a question, and then the next day excitedly click on your post after seeing it has 5 or 6 responses only to find out none of them have anything to do with your questiion. what a bummer. god forbid that i should call anyone on this for fear of being accused of acting like the police or flexing my muscle. i find it hard to believe that no one else out there sees what i am refering to. and of course, because none of you know me, you don't take kindly to my infringing on your circle. identify myself? you know my name, what do you want me to do? post my home phone and address on this site. surely you can't expect me to do that. does anyone see what i am saying, without taking it as apersonal insult? i don't mean to insult ANYONE. i am however, entitled to my opinion. Quote
Retrosaurus Posted March 17, 2001 Posted March 17, 2001 Baltimore, You are part of the problem, not the solution. If you really believe in what you are saying, then you could effect the problem most positivly by staying off the site. Bye, bye. Don't let the door hit you in the A$$. Quote
whillans Posted March 17, 2001 Posted March 17, 2001 ###### [This message has been edited by whillans (edited 03-17-2001).] Quote
mikeadam Posted March 17, 2001 Posted March 17, 2001 B, OPINION NOTED...ANOTHER OPINION OFFERED... random banter is something that has always made this site interesting bro...there shouldn't be any structure or guidelines for a response...if someone thinking about the posted question generates an alternate response than the one the querying party may have anticipated, so much the better...in the office spaces of the eastside, seattle, boston and elsewhere, this site provides an avenue for communication...eventually someone will come online and provide the answer like Dru did...you have to let the post get blown around in the wind a bit...no one has ever displayed such a commanding tone in their initial postings... there is no insidious circle of cascadeclimber brownshirts who lay down the law when something like this pops up although Tim has asked before...no danke...this crowd punishes the belligerent... retro cranks desert ice...MrG peruses law libraries and clutches his cell phone protectively...Dru's a Canadian (Canada rulez!)...Borbon is the resident irish wino...Erik supervises groups of insect commando's intent on conquering crag girls everywhere...whillan's chain smokes and drinks pints of heavy...i spray on this thing when i should be outside seeing what's going on... you can go aggro if you want...fine with me...just sounds like static while we all slouch in our chairs and wait for someone like Dru to pony up the beta...your spray is the same as everyone else's attenuation...maybe you should register as the grump...sounds good to me... Does anyone know Mack Johnson? rock ninja disguised as a history teacher? Old man kicked my ass at the great and secret boulder yesterday...sigh... Mike Quote
pope Posted March 17, 2001 Posted March 17, 2001 Mike, I've met this Mack fellow. Think he's a wrastlin' coach out in Gig Harbor or somewhere out there. He did the Salathe with my friend Mike. Apparently he led the Hollow Flake with only two slings and two 'biners (for the belay). Definitely Type-A if I remember, and a damn good climber (if you don't believe me, just ask him). Quote
mikeadam Posted March 17, 2001 Posted March 17, 2001 Thanks for the info...I believe you man...i better get in shape to keep up with that guy... Quote
Blight Posted March 22, 2001 Posted March 22, 2001 I climbed it yesterday. You could do it in 7 pitches if you like. However, the route is 3 pitches with some change (a short scramble)- call that 4 pitches if you like. We used a 60 m rope, but didn't stretch it, so we probably could have done the same with a 50? Someone with knowledge of the route could climb it quite easily in 3 pitches with a 60 meter rope. The crux sections (.10b) on two of the pitches are short. The route has alot of bolts - on most pitches, clipping half the bolts (or less?) will suffice. Cheers! Quote
rayborbon Posted March 22, 2001 Posted March 22, 2001 Nice work Blight sounds cool as heck! Maybe I'll have to put that on the tick list too Baltimore, I think you are policing the wrong thread eh? If MrGoodTime was pissed off then maybe he would voice it or send me a message. Not trying to flame this up but did you ever think that some of us know each other a little? Just let that *&*& go bro and climb on. -Ray Quote
Andy_Bourne Posted March 22, 2001 Posted March 22, 2001 Blight, Good info. Sounds like a cool route. I was just curious how the general conditions are in the Icycle or Tumwater? or the approach? Also, was the route wet in any spots? Thanks. Quote
Blight Posted March 23, 2001 Posted March 23, 2001 Tumwater - didn't drive through, but I would bet all of Castle and Midnight are good. Snow in places in the Icicle - road closed (due to snow) at Bridge creek. However, the higher you go on the south facing hillside, the better it gets (gets way more sun up higher this time of year)- plus, there is so much rock, it heats everything up. Snow is melting fast everywhere. I would say that almost everything on the North side of the road is good to go (low and high). Condor is totally dry. Â Quote
MX Posted March 26, 2001 Posted March 26, 2001 I did the route last week and must say it's really nice. It's a great, pleasant line with varied climbing and lots of fun movement. The approach offers a nice warm up and super views of the Stuart Range. My only complaint is that the route is overbolted. I appreciate the route setter's desire to make the route safe and popular, but anyone who can climb 5.10b can deal with a fifteen foot runout on 5.6 slabs. My advice is to do it in three and a half pitches. Bring 16 draws (or tweleve and skip a bunch of bolts) and do two "pitches" at a time. Basically, it's a nice three pitch route with super views. Quote
Freerider Posted March 26, 2001 Posted March 26, 2001 Thank you MX for your constructive comments, they have been duely noted! I'd rather be outside, ron  Quote
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