Freerider

Fred I have a number of different camming devices including BD's and Trangos. The smaller Trangos work well although the larger ones are not nearly as nice. Certainly the extended camming range on the BD's make them a far better buy. The larger Trangos are narrow and do not stay put well especially if you don't extend the sling. My suggestion is to get some of both. The Trango TCU's and the small quad cams will suffice and are cheap, but grab a #2 or #3 camalot and you'll be sold! If you can, try a CCH Alien in one of the smaller sizes. They grab in places others will not! Happy Spending ron

It's neat to hear the varying conditions of this route. I soloed it year before last, the day the road opened, and it was all ice. There was even a short water ice section. The chockstone was but a mere hump. It certainly was good fun! [This message has been edited by Freerider (edited 04-03-2001).]

Thank you MX for your constructive comments, they have been duely noted! I'd rather be outside, ron

Does anyone know the current conditions in Icicle canyon? Is the road open past Bridge Creek? How much snow is up high on the valley slopes? Can you get to 8-Mile Buttress without post holeing? or Givlers? Any knowledge would be appreciated! ron

Jman here is my 2- bits about "approach" shoes. Don't waste your money! It's an advertising scheme to force people to buy more crap. Any shoe that hikes well won't climb well, and any shoe that climbs well won't hike well. The sole needs to be flat to smear which is mostly what you will do on lower angle beginer routes and any rock slabs or scrambles you will encounter on approachs. Most approachs I know of involve mud, wet grass and moss. You need traction to navigate this "trash" and most approach shoes lack it. When starting to climb, you will progress much quicker in a rock shoe than in an approach shoe, which will detract from the experience. Any one that can climb well in an approach shoe already had extensive practice, it requires precise foot work, which most novices lack. Spend your money on a good pair of rock shoes that fit well! ( Don't let some sales "elf" talk you into something too small, it will not help!!!) Just carry your rock shoes in a daypack with all your other essentials. Continue to do your approachs in your hiking boots, or better yet try a high quality pair of running shoes or trail runners. They fit better, offer more cushion on hurting feet and knees, and have better traction than most approach shoes. (I also find they climb just about as well!) They also tend to be lighter take up less space, and are as equally non effective at keeping out water as approach shoes. Oh yeah, and cheaper! Approach shoes are just like fancy, stretchy, flashy climbing clothing, they don't make any thing easier they just make you look better. Good Luck! ron * As Dru noted, Tevas also work although I disagree about the smell. Some of the funkiest feet I've smelled were in Tevas.( Not my own of course!) Something about the materials they use holds some serious funk!

I figured I should finally reply to a topic since I am 50% responsible for the recent addition on Condor Buttress, and can offer any info needed. The route's full name is "Condorphamine Addiction", it was put up by Leland Windham and myself (Ron Cotman) in May of 2000. We have rated the route 5.10b, and most who have climbed it agree, although I have heard ridiculous comments such as "it felt 10b but if the bolts were further apart it would be 9+"!?! It can be climbed with a dozen draws and a 50 meter rope. To get there follow Victor's Bathtub Dome approach and continue up and right following a reasonable trail and lots-o-cairns. (Thanks to whomever the cairn builder is!) Aprox. 1-1.5 hours from valley floor. The recomended decent is to rappel the route, 7 singles, although it is possible to hike/downclimb to the right from the top. I do have a topo available and would be glad to post it, if I knew how. As it was pointed out, a topo isn't really needed since the route is visible from the road and there isn't much else to choose from on the buttress. Condorphamine is well cleaned and well bolted, as was assumed by Dan. All "cruxes" are well protected. Pitch 1 - 5.7 Pitch 2 - 5.9/10a Pitch 3 - 5.4 Pitch 4 - 5.8 Pitch 5 - 5.10b Pitch 6 - 5.10b Pitch 7 - 5.4 There is an alternate starting pitch (to the immediate left) called "Opus of the Condorian kind" which is also 5.10b for those trying to make the route more "sustained". The bolted route to the right (90 feet) is called "Condorification" and is a fun 5.6. Killer rock and spectacular views of the Stuart group should put this route on everyones to-do list. If anyone needs more info or wants a copy of the topo they can email me at rjcotman@qwest.net. Ron Cotman * I do believe Tim's original question was about 8-mile Buttress which seems hard to confuse for Condor since they aren't very close to each other and are seperated by the massive Bridge Creek Wall. If he was climbing on the lower tier of 8-mile he wouldn't be able to see Condor. I can't say I'm not glad for the confusion though!