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Posted (edited)

I can't believe there were only like four people at Index yesterday. It was amazing out. Dry granite. Warm sun. It was great seeing Dberdinka, slothrop and folks at Index. bigdrink.gif Solo aided 10%. Slothrop offered a belay so we warmed up on Iron Horse. I know its the beginning of the season and my first lead on rock in five months, but I'm pissed I fell at the crux. I havn't fallen there in ages. Enough ranting. Then did Jap Gardens short and then both pitches of Thin Fingers. Index rocks! bigdrink.gifrockband.gif

 

Also, just a quick note. Narrow Arrow Direct, as I understand, goes free at 12+. Although the guide labels the climb at A2 11b, the climb goes clean and I've done most of it clean. I say most because I was solo aiding it a year ago and ran out of gear at the free climbing bolts and lowered off. I also have a friend who has climbed it clean. Please don't pound pins. hellno3d.gif

Edited by TimL
Posted

If my memory serves me correct and from what a friend told me, the two free climbing bolts on the upper part replaced two old pins. I haven't tried to "free" it yet on lead. Might give it a shot this year. fruit.gif

Posted
When I was up there weekend before last, I noticed the bridge from the RR tracks to the trail to Private Idaho/Diamond/Beyond was floating in a beaver pond.

 

Is that a yearly occurence? (I don't remember that happening in the past.)

 

Yep. Last year it was floating pretty good early in the year.

 

Is the old upper town wall trail still an option to circumvent the pond, or is there another way?

Posted
When I was up there weekend before last, I noticed the bridge from the RR tracks to the trail to Private Idaho/Diamond/Beyond was floating in a beaver pond.

 

Is that a yearly occurence? (I don't remember that happening in the past.)

 

Yep. Last year it was floating pretty good early in the year.

Is the old upper town wall trail still an option to circumvent the pond, or is there another way?

Trip your partner, and then step on their pack and hop to the other side? Maybe throw an extra pair of shorts and a shirt in your pack if you plan on this, then the climbing day isn't wasted.

Posted
You can still cross that bridge, though, and if you play your cards right you may not get a soaker out of it.

 

The day I was there it was colder than a well diggers ass and when I put my foot on that bridge, it did little more than move toward the opposite bank. I weren't taking any chances with the "tread light and fast" approach.

I went for the round the upper wall trail to the diamond gully variation, but the grovel through the dihedral flake looked mighty uninviting that day as well.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Met MisterE in the Index lot on a beautiful, sunny, Saturday morning and got some "peaches" in. First we did GM, with the 10b handcrack variation on the third pitch. Me leading the variation:

 

1826Index3-04_005-med.jpg

 

That handcrack is fantastic! From the anchors atop that pitich we toproped "Phone Calls from the Dead", but we both got shut down by the 11a/b mantle just below the chains.

 

MisterE then led "Sagiscarius":

 

1826Index3-04_015-med.jpg

 

which was a first time for me, but old hat for the seasoned MisterE. He led it in fine style, though he left a good portion of his rack on the ground, forcing him to stop at the second anchor. So we missed out on about 20ft of steep hand crack bidness, oh well.

 

I led the first pitch of Japanese Gardens next and got spanked on the upper wide crack because I didn't think of LAYBACKING! Laybacking on lead is weird, and I usually try to avoid it, but it seems the best approach on that pitch.

 

We then met up with SpecialEd and GaperJeff who had a TR set up on Zoom. MisterE and I each took a ride and then we all retreated to the parking lot for ceremonial beers and mosquito sacrifices (yes, they have arrived).

 

Thanks to MisterE, SpecialEd, and GaperJeff for a great day!

 

bigdrink.gif

Posted

It was a rockin'good time for sure! thumbs_up.gif

 

Index is the place for early season spankage, just to remind you how out of shape you have gotten over the winter. cry.gif

 

Good to see folks again! Thanks for the great day, AF! bigdrink.gif

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
When I was up there weekend before last, I noticed the bridge from the RR tracks to the trail to Private Idaho/Diamond/Beyond was floating in a beaver pond.

 

Is that a yearly occurence? (I don't remember that happening in the past.)

No, the beavers have been busy. They've got a pretty cool chain of dams in that little system. My back yard now goes under water much more than in the past as well. Watch for the wood ducks

Posted

It seemed like there used to be a tree at the base of cunning stunt. Or was it just a big pile of sticker bushes?

 

If you move the floating bridge to the right (facing the trail from the RR tracks) it'll sit on some rocks that were probably placed there as a bridge abbutment. Then you don't have to hike up with wet feet or try to dance across the Beaver dam and bushwack back up to the trail.

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