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Crack Bouldering


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In the "what would you climb" (great beta there by the way) Catbirdseat asked if there was any crack bouldering out there. Rather than drift that thread, I moved my response to a new one.


CBS: if you want to check out bouldering with cracks, you should head down to Mt. Woodson near San Diego. Stacks and stacks of cracks, though most often they get top roped. crucible2.jpgdigitsdelight.jpg

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Classic Crack Area - Leavenworth is ok at best.

Start of Exasperator- Squish

The start of the cracks at Shannon falls are good.


I think the best thing to do around here is to throw a top rope at Octopus Gardens at Squish start at the left then switch anchors to the right and keep going. Tons of good cracks...its like crack school. Long pitches of hand cracks and others. I can't think of better place to learn around here. The route that goes through that small tree is very good for techique, so is the Octopus Garden route. That's my 2 cents. Good luck.


My friend has a good way to make solid cracks out of 2 x 6's at home. They are solid and adjustable. PM me and I'll put you in touch. He lives down there he might be able to help you build them.

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geez bill routes are not boulder problems tongue.gif


squamish boulder cracks that rawk

buns up and squealing v4 old psyche ledge road

roof crack v0+ north end of murrin parking lot

yosemite crack v3 lighthouse park

eager puppy v4 cypress park

big egg v1 cypress park

tylers traverse v5 north walls

hand crack v2 north walls


<chestbeat> ive done them all except for tyler's and buns up </chestbeat>




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If you're looking to work technique without leaving the city, there are several nice boulder-problem cracks at Stone Gardens: hands, vertical. hands, 45 deg overhanging. Off-fingers/tight hands to hands, vertical. Fist, vertical.


Doing lots of laps on those, up & down, has significantly improved my climbing on the real thing outdoors. UW rock has a lot of cracks too, although they tend to be pretty challenging b/c they're shallow.

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