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Necronomicon

Leading through TRs

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If you want to lead a climb, and it's being TRd, should you: wait, lead through, or, if the group is unwilling to yield, pull their rope, and lead off?

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are they already well on the route?? or just setting up?? are they cool people or wankers?? sport or trad??? how long will it take you to lead the climb??? are you fast or painfuly slow (like muffy) ? come on Necro... this is an important question.. I need details.

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How about the situation I've witnessed twice in the same weekend at smith, when a group of 4 or 5 is TRing a climb and there is a diagonal line and a pushy leader who wants to put a rope up ACROSS the rope that is already up? Geez people are impatient... The first time I suggested he not clip any bolts until he was past the first rope but I just got a mean look back from him. I Was serious, not trying to be mean or anything! confused.gif

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Necronomicon said:

If you want to lead a climb, and it's being TRd, should you: wait, lead through, or, if the group is unwilling to yield, pull their rope, and lead off?

if you have to ask . . . rolleyes.gif

you only pretend to be tough dontcha?

 

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you know what i really hate? every time i go up to climb the tooth, there's all these fuckin' gumbies up there! and when they see me coming, do they get out of the way? hell, no, they just keep climbing as if they had EVERY RIGHT to be there!

 

so there i am, stuck behind all these gumbies, and instead of the gumbies thinking i'm all cool for climbing the tooth, other people think i'm JUST ANOTHER GUMBY on the tooth. the horror!

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I say you have no right to demand somebody get out of your way just because you want to lead the pitch and they are using a toprope. If they are tying up a climb for several hours while a group of eight climbers rehearses the line, you would not be out of line to suggest that you'd like to have a chance to have a go at it -- but you WOULD be out of line, in my view, to think you had an absolute right to insist that they get out of your way.

 

Wuld that diagonal pitch crossing the top-rope lines be the start of Zebra Zion? Whoever put up all those sport lines there created a ready-made conflict that is here to stay. With a little bit of tact and cooperation, one should be able to diagonal on through without ruining everybody else's day -- but I personally would try to get on the route (ZZ) early or late in the day when there are few or no other parties in the way.

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Necronomicon said:

Leading is the sport, TR is only a shallow mockery. I say clear the way.

I say you are being arrogant and full of yourself. It is not YOUR rock. Smellow out a little boy.

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If people are actively climbing then walk on and find someplace less crowded. What gets under my skin however is when people just leave their topropes hanging there, wander off to admire the babe climbing three routes to the left and then still expect others to stay off the route!

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I'm gonna counter you guys...AT SMITH, it is standard practice that redpoint attempts come first...Most people bow out of a tr if the person asks to have a shot at a redpoint attempt on their project...

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mattp said:

I say you have no right to demand somebody get out of your way just because you want to lead the pitch and they are using a toprope. If they are tying up a climb for several hours while a group of eight climbers rehearses the line, you would not be out of line to suggest that you'd like to have a chance to have a go at it -- but you WOULD be out of line, in my view, to think you had an absolute right to insist that they get out of your way.

 

Wuld that diagonal pitch crossing the top-rope lines be the start of Zebra Zion? Whoever put up all those sport lines there created a ready-made conflict that is here to stay. With a little bit of tact and cooperation, one should be able to diagonal on through without ruining everybody else's day -- but I personally would try to get on the route (ZZ) early or late in the day when there are few or no other parties in the way.

It's easiest, and most fun, to approach ZZ via Gumby. Saves a bunch of hassle. I love that route. rockband.gif

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Necronomicon said:

If you want to lead a climb, and it's being TRd, should you: wait, lead through, or, if the group is unwilling to yield, pull their rope, and lead off?

 

Definitely wait, IMHO. But, if the TR group arrived ahead of you at the climb but have not yet set up the TR, offer to trail their TR rope behind you as you lead it, and set up their TR for them. If they don't go for that, there's nothing to do but wait or go someplace else ... and give them a friendly the_finger.gif

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mmcmurra said:

Necronomicon said:

If you want to lead a climb, and it's being TRd, should you: wait, lead through, or, if the group is unwilling to yield, pull their rope, and lead off?

 

Definitely wait, IMHO. But, if the TR group arrived ahead of you at the climb but have not yet set up the TR, offer to trail their TR rope behind you as you lead it, and set up their TR for them. If they don't go for that, there's nothing to do but wait or go someplace else ... and give them a friendly the_finger.gif

 

Is acceptable to "accidentally" send down some stuff when you get to the top, to give them a realistic experience? For instance: If I climb past a group on an alpine climb, I may clove hitch the slow leader into his last piece, and send some small stuff down on them when I get to the belay, to teach them about the importance of speed in the mountains.

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