Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted November 5, 2003 Posted November 5, 2003 Another vote for the Quickwires! Can't beat those pre-assembled BD draws with the Enduro straight gate ('cause who the fuck needs a fancy-ass straight gate?) and Quickwire on the clippy end. Wiregate goodness at a pedestrian price; 's all ya need, baby! Quote
Distel32 Posted November 5, 2003 Posted November 5, 2003 Yeah I have a bunch of quickwires! very nice! mine were pricey though, guess thats what you have to do to get the signature DFA model..... Quote
Rodchester Posted November 5, 2003 Posted November 5, 2003 Best Alpine Biner I am a huge fan of these Trangos lightweight wiregates. They are as light as the BD Neutrino but considerably larger and easier to use. They are also economical. Weight: 35 gm for the WireGate Major Axis: 24 kN Minor Axis: 8 kN Gate Open: 8 kN CE Retail Price: $5.95 I know that mgear.com had some on blowout as a quickdraw and that Second Ascent carries singles. I tried a couple and now have quite a few more. For alpine they rock. Has anyone tried the newest Trango ? It claims to be the lightest full sized biner... Dimensions: 93mm x 57mm Gate Opening: 26mm Rope Bearing Radius: 4.5mm Weight: 30gm (1.09 oz) Major Axis: 24kN Minor Axis: 7kN Gate Open: 9kN Price: $7.50 Available: October 20, 2003 Quote
chelle Posted November 5, 2003 Posted November 5, 2003 randygoat said: I've been replaceing my old biners here and there with wire gates, mostly because I do alot more ice than rock climbing and the wire gate gates don't freeze up as bad. I have mostly Dovals[ OP?] and Hot Wires, plus a mixed bag of strays . What ever that is available when I have the cash to spend. Mixing the new light wire gates with the new thin runners by Mammut[like a shoe string ] is shaving some real weight from my old[ancient?] rack. I hate those Dovals. The biners spin around and you can't really tell which side is up. They suck. Quote
catbirdseat Posted November 5, 2003 Posted November 5, 2003 Can someone tell me if there is a keylock pearabiner with an autolock, but not a ball-autolock (like the Petzl William Ball Autolock)? Quote
Jopa Posted November 5, 2003 Posted November 5, 2003 (edited) catbirdseat said: Can someone tell me if there is a keylock pearabiner with an autolock, but not a ball-autolock (like the Petzl William Ball Autolock)? Yes. It is made by Petzl. I have one but I don't know the name. Found it: here Edited November 5, 2003 by Jopa Quote
bunglehead Posted November 5, 2003 Posted November 5, 2003 They have a non autolocking keylock called the Attache. Great biners! Quote
catbirdseat Posted November 5, 2003 Posted November 5, 2003 I think the Attache is a little bit smaller than the Williams, is it not? Quote
bunglehead Posted November 5, 2003 Posted November 5, 2003 catbirdseat said: I think the Attache is a little bit smaller than the Williams, is it not? Why yes it is! Still a great biner though. Quote
erik Posted November 5, 2003 Posted November 5, 2003 cbs the williams is the larger oblong shaped biner? i think they only come in screw gate and with that dumb little ball lock spinner thing. Quote
JayB Posted November 6, 2003 Posted November 6, 2003 Omega Pacific JC's are light (35g), cheap, and seem to work pretty well. I think you can get a 10 pack for around $60 at www.linkupgear.com Quote
catbirdseat Posted November 6, 2003 Posted November 6, 2003 erik said: cbs the williams is the larger oblong shaped biner? i think they only come in screw gate and with that dumb little ball lock spinner thing. Yes, that is correct. I hate having to press the little green ball AND rotate the collar at the same time. Jopa found one, such as I described. I want the large size because I use it with an Alpine Bod harness, which does not have a belay loop. Quote
boatskiclimbsail Posted November 6, 2003 Posted November 6, 2003 As far as Petzl biners go, the william comes in all four Petzl gate locks, screw, ball-lock, spinball, and their "new" tri-act. The Attache is quite a bit smaller, and comes in screw and spinball. They also make the Am'D which comes in screw, spinball and ball-lock and tri-act. They brought back their locking ovals, but only with a screwgate. I personally find Petzl biners to be "The sh*t", and they populate my rack except for my pile of aid ovals (mostly BD Cheap-ass Ovals @ $3) and a few lightweight wires (WC Wildwires). I Loooooove the ball-lock but almost everyone I climb with curses at them everytime they need to open one. I've not had a single problem with them, even in the ice and snow. Quote
mmcmurra Posted November 6, 2003 Posted November 6, 2003 A biner to avoid: I bought some OP non-locking D's on sale at REI-Outlet to replace some stolen ones (at $3.93 each seemed like a great deal). But they suck. Too big, way too heavy (62 g!), and you can't easily tell which end of the gate is the hinge. I know most of you would be smart enough to avoid such a lemon, but just a warning... Quote
bunglehead Posted November 6, 2003 Posted November 6, 2003 I did the same thing. They SUCK. Now they're bail biners. Quote
arlen Posted November 6, 2003 Posted November 6, 2003 I bring a few Big Easy and Omega 4 biners on trad 'cause I cling to the unproven assumption that wide, heavy biners decrease the chances that rope drage will shift pro. Quote
randygoat Posted November 9, 2003 Posted November 9, 2003 ehmmic said: randygoat said: I've been replaceing my old biners here and there with wire gates, mostly because I do alot more ice than rock climbing and the wire gate gates don't freeze up as bad. I have mostly Dovals[ OP?] and Hot Wires, plus a mixed bag of strays . What ever that is available when I have the cash to spend. Mixing the new light wire gates with the new thin runners by Mammut[like a shoe string ] is shaving some real weight from my old[ancient?] rack. I hate those Dovals. The biners spin around and you can't really tell which side is up. They suck. Yeah I have had that same problem with them spining, but stick some tape[ I put an ID tape anyway] on either end , keeping it consistant , can help stay oriented. Quote
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