eternalX Posted October 21, 2003 Posted October 21, 2003 Anybody interested in climbing Rainier sometime in the next couple of months? Preferably somebody who can effectively evaluate avalanche conditions (as I cannot). Quote
iain Posted October 21, 2003 Posted October 21, 2003 what, whiteout climbing on snow dust bridges doesn't appeal to you? where's the spirit? Quote
eternalX Posted October 21, 2003 Author Posted October 21, 2003 Nnot paying for someone to guide me up Rainier. If you're interested, great. If not, there's really no need to post. Quote
vegetablebelay Posted October 21, 2003 Posted October 21, 2003 eternalX said: Nnot paying for someone to guide me up Rainier. But you are looking for someone to go up there with you and determine whether or not the avalanche risk is acceptable. Sounds like you're looking for a guide, that's all. Quote
eternalX Posted October 21, 2003 Author Posted October 21, 2003 No. I just want to find somebody who is also interested in doing a winter climb of rainier that feels comfortable evaluating avalanche conditions. I'd find it educational. I don't need somebody to tell me what to pack and how to get to the top. Quote
dkemp Posted October 21, 2003 Posted October 21, 2003 I'm interested, but not yet committed to the idea. Last year I was thwarted and I told that same team we'd try it again. You can bet we'll be taking the trade route and wont be setting any speed records. Anyway, yeah, stay in touch. Dox Quote
Bronco Posted October 21, 2003 Posted October 21, 2003 eternalX said: Anybody interested in climbing Rainier sometime in the next couple of months? Preferably somebody who can effectively evaluate avalanche conditions (as I cannot). I'd strongly recomend you make a concerted effort to learn avalanche forecasting and not rely on an "expert" you met on the internet. I found myself in some akward situations with some "experts" I found on this very website. I'm sure I'm not alone in that regard It's really not rocket science and there are a few basic avalanche courses you could complete prior to Feb/March which is the most common time to do a winter climb of Rainier. It is possible to perform a pretty accurate analysis of the snowpack without getting into the facceting or metamorphism of the snow particles, just the basics. I talked with one guy who met some (experienced) internet buddies to do Rainier in the winter and had to show them how to self arrest and tie in at the middle of the rope at Camp Muir. or just hire a certified guide. Quote
mattp Posted October 21, 2003 Posted October 21, 2003 Once upon a time, I went up there for a summit attempt over the Thanksgiving weekend and it was fun to be up on the mountain when nobody was there (we were just about the only party at Muir for three nights) but the weather kind of sucked. For the next two months, high winds and high precip will probably be pretty much the dominant forecast and you'll be lucky to get more than a day or two of stable good weather in a row. Good luck! Quote
eternalX Posted October 22, 2003 Author Posted October 22, 2003 Bronco said: eternalX said: Anybody interested in climbing Rainier sometime in the next couple of months? Preferably somebody who can effectively evaluate avalanche conditions (as I cannot). I'd strongly recomend you make a concerted effort to learn avalanche forecasting and not rely on an "expert" you met on the internet. I found myself in some akward situations with some "experts" I found on this very website. I'm sure I'm not alone in that regard It's really not rocket science and there are a few basic avalanche courses you could complete prior to Feb/March which is the most common time to do a winter climb of Rainier. It is possible to perform a pretty accurate analysis of the snowpack without getting into the facceting or metamorphism of the snow particles, just the basics. I plan on taking an avalanche class as well, but it'd be nice to have somebody who also knows a thing or two about snowpack. Quote
Jens Posted October 22, 2003 Posted October 22, 2003 If the only thing you lack is avy knowledge..... If you have any backcountry ski buddies that know avy assemsent, teach em' crecasse rescue and take em'. Chances are they already in good shape, know how do deal with Cascade winter storms, know how to self arrest, and are not afraid of steep snow. good luck. Quote
Harry_Pi Posted October 22, 2003 Posted October 22, 2003 Hello capitalist! Give the X a break. I sometimes make point to climb someone that has more experience so I learn something. So what if X doesn't have avalanche training. With his motivation and enthusiasm, he will meet another climber who maybe willing to teach him. Thank you for allow commie to post. Quote
catbirdseat Posted October 22, 2003 Posted October 22, 2003 I plan to make some more winter attempts of Rainier as soon as enough snow has fallen. February is usually the best time for winter climbing, because the crevasses are filled in and the days are beginning to get longer. I was lucky last year to summit twice in two weeks on different routes. The key is to be willing to go at a moment's notice. You can't expect to be a weekend climber and get to the top in winter. Quote
Norman_Clyde Posted October 22, 2003 Posted October 22, 2003 My winter ascent plans have been thwarted by weather each of the past two winters, because I was a weekend climber. This year I will have many more two and three day periods free, weekdays and weekends. Come February I will be watching for windows of good weather. I will hope that some of the parties on this board/this post will be available on short notice if a few good days appear. Quote
Bug Posted October 22, 2003 Posted October 22, 2003 I have not been to the summit in winter yet. After three or four tries, I have resigned myself to calling in sick by cell phone on the way there. Count me in if you go Norm. I'll do likewise. Oh yeah, do you know how I put these camprons on my boots? Do we really need them? Just kidding X. Keep a sense of humor or you will go insane on this site. Quote
jhamaker Posted October 22, 2003 Posted October 22, 2003 >>I'd strongly recomend you make a concerted effort to learn avalanche forecasting.<< Avy forcasting is a crap-shoot. Best just stay out from under avy chutes. Quote
Bronco Posted October 22, 2003 Posted October 22, 2003 jhamaker said:Avy forcasting is a crap-shoot. Best just stay out from under avy chutes. Obviously forecasting is no guarantee that it's going to be safe but, the guy said he wanted to climb Rainier in the winter so to suggest he avoid avalanche chutes and terrain altogether is not very realistic. Quote
eternalX Posted October 23, 2003 Author Posted October 23, 2003 Bug said: I have not been to the summit in winter yet. After three or four tries, I have resigned myself to calling in sick by cell phone on the way there. Count me in if you go Norm. I'll do likewise. Oh yeah, do you know how I put these camprons on my boots? Do we really need them? Just kidding X. Keep a sense of humor or you will go insane on this site. Duck tape, duh. I'm up for it too. Keep me in mind too Norm Quote
Bug Posted October 23, 2003 Posted October 23, 2003 eternalX said: Bug said: I have not been to the summit in winter yet. After three or four tries, I have resigned myself to calling in sick by cell phone on the way there. Count me in if you go Norm. I'll do likewise. Oh yeah, do you know how I put these camprons on my boots? Do we really need them? Just kidding X. Keep a sense of humor or you will go insane on this site. Duck tape, duh. I'm up for it too. Keep me in mind too Norm Norm is really fast. Put your joggin shoes on now and find some hills. Quote
Norman_Clyde Posted October 23, 2003 Posted October 23, 2003 I have exercised only once in the past ten days. I can feel my resting pulse creeping back up. But after today I only have two more shifts this month, so maybe I can make up for it before Halloween. I do not have any motivation to set speed records on Rainier in the winter. A more measured ascent on a crisp winter morning, no other parties but our own, is what I'm dreaming of. Quote
catbirdseat Posted October 23, 2003 Posted October 23, 2003 Barry, if we ever climb Rainier together in Winter, I know who is going to kick most of the steps and it ain't me! Quote
iain Posted October 23, 2003 Posted October 23, 2003 catbirdseat said: Barry, if we ever climb Rainier together in Winter, I know who is going to kick most of the steps and it ain't me! Quote
Trundle Posted October 23, 2003 Posted October 23, 2003 for those that have climbed Rainier in winter, what is your favorite route? fastest? easiest? least objective hazard? Quote
Bug Posted October 24, 2003 Posted October 24, 2003 Well I haven't been successful in winter but Gib Ledges is the most popular winter route. Quote
Jens Posted October 24, 2003 Posted October 24, 2003 Trundle said: for those that have climbed Rainier in winter, what is your favorite route? fastest? easiest? least objective hazard? Gib ledges. If you go Sunday- Monday during a weather window, you might even get lucky enough to find some steps put in. And I've found that sleeping in the Muir hut in winter can actually be enjoyable when no one else is up at muir. Quote
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