glassgowkiss Posted October 17, 2003 Share Posted October 17, 2003 others are climbing.... http://www.desnivel.com/object.php?o=8938 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted October 17, 2003 Author Share Posted October 17, 2003 so A4 goes free with 2x 14a pitches a few more 13b/c and a whole bunch of hard 12's. show me a fucking single route around PNW? so for all of anti-sportclimbing crowd- words -action=zilch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted October 17, 2003 Share Posted October 17, 2003 Not quite the PNW but close!  Free route  PP  Damn that was to be one of my three winter projects too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted October 17, 2003 Share Posted October 17, 2003 Not quite the PNW but close!  Free route  PP  Damn that was to be one of my three winter projects too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted October 17, 2003 Author Share Posted October 17, 2003 that's great. but last time i checked Hubers were from Austria and they did their fair shere of bolt clipping. and that was the point of my first post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted October 17, 2003 Share Posted October 17, 2003 LOL I was agreeing with your point! Â Â PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted October 17, 2003 Author Share Posted October 17, 2003 it would be good to see some of these guys in places like Squamish or Bugaboos. I bet there would be an instant jump in standard of climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Natural Posted October 17, 2003 Share Posted October 17, 2003 Burins were Fourth distance, 7b+. "In this I fell. It is a length exposed enough, it went with the congealed hands, and above the line in free goes a little more to the right of the line of burins. It had to return to plate them, because in addition it had not put you express them previously. In one of them I saw that it could not plate, it already took enough distance with respect to the burin of down, and I began to say of everything because it saw that it did not control and it was going to me to fall on an old super burin ". Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted October 17, 2003 Author Share Posted October 17, 2003 the joy of auto-tranlation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted October 17, 2003 Share Posted October 17, 2003 man I am really starting to dig this whole sportclimbing thing. Â GK, when are we going to meet and climb some sport? rumr said I should start climbing with you and you'll make me strong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted October 17, 2003 Share Posted October 17, 2003 aren't you already strong? or are you only pulling meager v5 these days  smith sport's all about the waif-like body w/bulging forearms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted October 17, 2003 Share Posted October 17, 2003 I'm not even close to being strong. Yeah smith is all about the little wirey dudes, like rumr!!! Â Are you coming down this weekend iain? it is going to be sweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted October 17, 2003 Share Posted October 17, 2003 glassgowkiss said: so A4 goes free with 2x 14a pitches a few more 13b/c and a whole bunch of hard 12's. show me a fucking single route around PNW? so for all of anti-sportclimbing crowd- words -action=zilch. Â I don't know what the hell it says...but if they were doing 5.14, or 5.12 for that matter, on A4 gear thats pretty out there. Â However, hasn't the Black Dyke in Squamish recently been freed at 13b/c or something like that. Bolted up and all but I'm not gonna dis them.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted October 17, 2003 Share Posted October 17, 2003 yeah I heard it went free at 13c, in europe long sport routes like that are all over the place! US is just behind in that realm of climbing IMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted October 17, 2003 Share Posted October 17, 2003 I need to get strong, too. School's taking all my time, right now, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted October 17, 2003 Share Posted October 17, 2003 yeah I'll be at smith with a few folks, sure I'll see you on chain and whatnot Not sure how these folks would hang w/the cc.com crowd but more the merrier Be sure to have a run on Heresy while you are there! You'll have zero problems sending that I am sure. A boulder problem sandwiched right in the thick of Smith crimper stuff, for the full body workout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted October 17, 2003 Share Posted October 17, 2003 I've done it on TR, but I fall at the same place every time on lead, but the last time I tried leading it was May, so I think I could do it now. I still need to get on toxic, never tried it and really want to this weekend. Â Yeah I'll be on chain flailing again, I feel pretty good now though and I got new beta (fingers crossed) Â see you there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 17, 2003 Share Posted October 17, 2003 Distel...send that rig!! Just think to yourself "Hey, its like 15 feet of 5.8-5.9 climbing to a V4 or V5 section to a jump!" Â No biggies, right?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted October 17, 2003 Share Posted October 17, 2003 Mattt's a bit shy  PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted October 17, 2003 Share Posted October 17, 2003 haha, yeah this weekend my goal is to finish the climb with lots of hangs, then maybe two more weekends for the redpoint. I'm trying to be realistic with myself, but all I want to do is redpoint....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 17, 2003 Share Posted October 17, 2003 (edited) You can do it THIS weekend! Really really work it w/o lowering to the ground for a while...do a section, lower and repeat that section then continue a bit further, hang and repeat...THEN, while still on the rope, climb up to that last bolt, clip into it and HANG (give your belayer and you a bit of rest) and unclip your harness from that bolt and do that jump to the bucket 4 or 5 times in a row...really really dial THAT specific move in... Â Come down, eat some chow, hang out, shoot the shit w/ some people...and WAIT, really really wait...come back in the evening and trundle up some stupid 5.10 thing and then go fire that route immediately...its a boulder problem only, not a route...*ahem* its right up your alley... Edited October 17, 2003 by RuMR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cairns Posted October 19, 2003 Share Posted October 19, 2003 glassgowkiss said: so A4 goes free with 2x 14a pitches a few more 13b/c and a whole bunch of hard 12's. show me a fucking single route around PNW? so for all of anti-sportclimbing crowd- words -action=zilch. Â I'm a part of the andy sportclimbing crowd, along with andy boyd, andy wilson, andy taylor, andy the photographer, andy the giant, and handy andy. Well, andy the giant was from Slovakia but he climbed at Squamish for a while. I asked him, "Why do you train so hard?", and he said, "5.14" Â As long as we are doing math, I'd like to point out that if standards are not uniform at all climbing areas then some area has to be the minimum through no fault of its own. Â I also agree that travel and getting to know what the best climbers are doing is one of the best of all motivators.How many pushups did you want, coach? Â Oh, yeah, on a more positive PNW note, I saw Mike Doyle and Sean McColl at the gym, recently. A 14a flash and best Junior at World Cup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 20, 2003 Share Posted October 20, 2003 glassgowkiss said: so A4 goes free with 2x 14a pitches a few more 13b/c and a whole bunch of hard 12's. show me a fucking single route around PNW? so for all of anti-sportclimbing crowd- words -action=zilch. Â Bob...alot of your arguments lose weight when you factor in the fact that everything you've posted has been by professional full time climbers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted October 20, 2003 Share Posted October 20, 2003 RuMR said: glassgowkiss said: so A4 goes free with 2x 14a pitches a few more 13b/c and a whole bunch of hard 12's. show me a fucking single route around PNW? so for all of anti-sportclimbing crowd- words -action=zilch. Â Bob...alot of your arguments lose weight when you factor in the fact that everything you've posted has been by professional full time climbers... Â jah man. we have full-time jobs and school. ask the law-goddess why she aint pulling 5.14 A5 WI342 M9 routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted October 20, 2003 Share Posted October 20, 2003 glassgowkiss said: so A4 goes free with 2x 14a pitches a few more 13b/c and a whole bunch of hard 12's. show me a fucking single route around PNW? so for all of anti-sportclimbing crowd- words -action=zilch. NARANJO DE BULNES Zunbeltz liberada desde abajo  Encadenada por Iker Ãntegramente, el proyecto free de los hermanos Pou cierra su segundo capÃtulo en tres dÃas: 8b+ en la Oeste del Picu.  HOLY SHIT, NO FUCKIN WAY!!!  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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