DaveD Posted October 5, 2003 Posted October 5, 2003 Hey, I'm heading to Leavenworth next weekend and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on route selection as I have never been there. I climb 5.9ish on rear and 5.10+ sport. Single pitch, multipitch I am game for anything. I noticed that there is a new guide book out and I will be getting that this week. Thanks in advance for your sugestions. Cheers DaveD Quote
Jens Posted October 5, 2003 Posted October 5, 2003 Cool, you are going to my favorite WA cragging area. Best Trad: Midnight and Castle Rock. Best sport: Rattlesnake Rock. Best easy to find and access bouldering: Swiftwater picnic area. All of these formations are found in Tumwater canyon off US highway 2. With the exception of perhaps Snow Creek Wall and the Givler's Dome area, rock climbing in Tumwater Canyon is much better than rock climbing in icicle creek canyon (A big plus when you've spent 2.5 hours in your car going over from Seattle). Plus it is often dry when the icicle is seeing light drizzle. Also most of the best routes are pre 1989.(even sport routes) as most of the newer routes are short scrubbed slabs or very short one half pitch cracks in obscure locations . Have fun. Hope I din't sound to opinionated Quote
matt_warfield Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 If you've never been in the area, Outer Space is mandatory. Quote
fredrogers Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 All discussions aside of whether the climbing in the Icicle or Tumwater is better, you might also consider checking out the following in the Icicle: Pearly Gates- tons of stuff around 5.9-5.10, mostly cracks and slab. Duty Dome area: lots of new routes around 5.9-5.10, both bolted and gear and the classic 5.10A slab pitch called Off-Duty. Also has one of the best "sport" routes I've done in Leavenworth called Jazzy Document 5.9. It's far enough off the beaten path that you probably won't see other people there. Quote
Charlie Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 You climbed somebody's rear? Seriously- Castle Rock!!!!! Quote
Crackbolter Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 Don't forget "Gunrack" at Clem's Holler @ 5.9 sport, "Perplexus" at the Nut House @ 5.10 sport, "Regular Route" on Careno @ 5.10 gear but not too stiff. "Yard Art" to "West Face of Peek-A-Boo Tower" @ 5.9+ gear and the almighty "Classic Crack" 40' pitch for something to toprope for beginners. All of the routes I mention here are in the recently published guidebook from Viktor Kramar. Quote
Charlie Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 cracked said: Canary. I'm such a pussy- I backed off the second pitch yesterday (after sending it several times in the past) I was shaking and sweating- it was pathetic. Quote
mattp Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 Orbit is just as good as Outer Space, in my opinion. I'm not starting a flame war, I hope; I'm simply suggesting that if you head up there for the five star route, consider settling for the four star one. Quote
cracked Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 Charlie said: cracked said: Canary. I'm such a pussy- I backed off the second pitch yesterday (after sending it several times in the past) I was shaking and sweating- it was pathetic. But the first pitch is way harder. Quit watchin porn and start sendin! Quote
jkrueger Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 After a 7-hour drive, any climb in Leavenworth is perfect. Of course, some climbs are more perfect than others, but I'm not going to argue the granite. Quote
Freeman Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 Condorphamine Addiction - about 8 30 meter pitches of 5.8 - 9 with a move or 2 of 10c. Bring 12 qd's Givlers Crack (5.7) is worth the hike - then you can do the perfect 10 - Bo Derrick (5.10) Everything at Pearly Gates and of course, Orbit and Outer Space Quote
matt_warfield Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 mattp said: Orbit is just as good as Outer Space, in my opinion. I'm not starting a flame war, I hope; I'm simply suggesting that if you head up there for the five star route, consider settling for the four star one. Agreed, especially when the 5 star route is crowded and the 4 star route is lonely. Quote
Billygoat Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 Anyone know how I can get a copy of Viktor Kramer's Book? Quote
Billygoat Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 I should have said where I heard that the olds ones are better for some reason....? Quote
Crackbolter Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 (edited) Pro Mountain Sprots, REI, Feathered Friends in Seattle. Der Sportsman and Leavenworth Mtn Sports in Leavenworth. Edited October 6, 2003 by Crackbolter Quote
erik Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 they are all about the same. the 1st kramer book had a binding that has lasted the other two just plain suck. look for it to fall aparat in less then a years time. i heard a rumor that guidebook authors do this to help increase book sales. but i dunno. sounds more like a warranty issue then anything. maybe authors should replaces jingusly binded guide books? i have quite a few that are falling apart!!!! other then that, the old white kramer guide had better hand drawn topos of scw. the nice thing about the newest book is that kramer went with pictures and i guess there are lotsa new bolted routes too, as well as a few crack routes. tho sadly there are no pics of scuzzy, so what good is the new book? and actually i personally think most of the pics dont convey a good image or what i see lworth as. but what do i know?? mostly nothing. Quote
Dru Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 i liked the old skool drawn topos more than the photos too. mostly because i think they give better detail of the route as opposed to where it is on the crag which is more what you get with a photo. Quote
matt_warfield Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 Billygoat said: I should have said where I heard that the olds ones are better for some reason....? As Erik says, the new one doesn't have as much information. Missing are topos and pitch information. Included are many new routes, probably forcing efficiencies. There will be more adventure with the new book as climbers discover on their own things which previous books would have divulged. Quote
Billygoat Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 I think I want the old one...Any for sale? Quote
Alpinfox Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 I'll trade you a new one for my old one. Quote
Billygoat Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 Deal. Now I have to locate a new copy. The REI in B'ham doesn't have it. I'll see if one of the others will send it. Thanks BG Quote
Freeman Posted October 7, 2003 Posted October 7, 2003 Looking at my book shelf last night I realized that I have about every Leavenworth guide from the original orange Beckey, the white Beckey, thru Victor's latest. I should donate the set to the Smithsonian. Does this date me? Quote
erik Posted October 7, 2003 Posted October 7, 2003 nope, cuz i have all of them too, as well as a few of my friends.....i just like all the guidebooks. Quote
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