Guest Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by chucK: I will throw in my pontifications:Damnation is 5.9, fist-crack, layback, chimney. No offwidth as I remember. Haven't climbed Canary since I was way green. I thought that last move (on p1) was hard! I wish I had Matt there with his laser pointer. Crack of Doom is cool but too short, 10a- . Sure is fun to leave your stuff at the base of Damnation/Angel crack so you can get some great entertainment when packing up afterward. What about Century? You guys like that one? I remember that being fun.Chuck Damnation is no offwidth eh? Let me watch you to see if you cannot get an armbar I never got fists on damnation but did seem to get half my body in there. I never laybacked either. I think maybe you should check some definition of offwidth or maybe me. I am concentrating on my numbers. I want to know what people think Canary is rated.. Quote
Dru Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 I liked Directissima, no crowds and good gear protected face climbing. warm up for DDD and harder than most 5.7 at Squamish although I see it is 5.8 in some of the guidebooks, maybe that is why... I would give it more than 1 star, too. [ 03-05-2002: Message edited by: Dru ] Quote
Dru Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by OfficeSpace: I am concentrating on my numbers. I want to know what people think Canary is rated.. 14d, call the mags!!! Quote
Charlie Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 Is that guy wearing a shriner hat? Moose lodge? Quote
Dru Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Charlie: Is that guy wearing a shriner hat? Moose lodge? That is an OR Gore-tex Fez only $49.99 on special this week.... look great at Pike Place Market or your next Masonic ritual... Quote
chucK Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 I think it was a graham cracker box. He forgot his helmet so for some protection against mounties dropping sh*t on him we taped the box of crackers to his noggin. Check out this other picture of Century and cracker-box head. Look up above him at that guy with the massive pack. Positive mountie identification !! Quote
Peter_Puget Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 Putting the route into the rating “equivolator” results in the following output: At Index 5.7+ – Short people may find the second pitch to be the crux. At Squamish 5.10a - The first pitch has a sting in its tail. Well worth the effort expended. At 38/Si S11 (.10b) – One of the top five crack pitches in Washington. Second pitch is a giant step into bigness. At Vantage 5.10a/b– Popular. At Yakima 5.7 – Start in the first corner left of ______. Quote
whillans Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 not to mention at Vantage the route would be called "Tijuana Donkey Lady meets Satan's Huge Vibrator". Quote
mattp Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 I think Crack of Doom is hard. That is one of those L'worth climbs that I believe has a "stiff" rating. Maybe I'm just old and weak. Quote
chucK Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 Do you exit left or right at the top of the handcrack? Exiting left seems much more difficult. Quote
Dru Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Putting the route into the rating “equivolator” results in the following output:At Index 5.7+ – Short people may find the second pitch to be the crux. At Squamish 5.10a - The first pitch has a sting in its tail. Well worth the effort expended. At 38/Si S11 (.10b) – One of the top five crack pitches in Washington. Second pitch is a giant step into bigness. At Vantage 5.10a/b– Popular. At Yakima 5.7 – Start in the first corner left of ______. At Smith Rocks 5.9 - a bold start leads to sustained climbing. Fight up the crack avoiding swarms of wasps. The second pitch features an airy step out into space and nauseating exposure. Inexplicably attracts novice leaders with triple-length slings and huge clanging sets of hexes. Quote
pope Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by mattp: I think Crack of Doom is hard. That is one of those L'worth climbs that I believe has a "stiff" rating. Maybe I'm just old and weak. It's been so long I can't remember. But what about that Alleyoop Chimney (Peshastin, maybe 5.8 in the book). That's the Leavenworth climb that left me a little confused. But the exit on the first pitch of Canary is 5.8+ or 5.9 even when you've got it wired. While I disapprove of grade inflation on the old classics (there's no way Outerspace if harder than 5.8), I think Canary's first pitch is one of those final exam 5.8's. When you can lead that, you're ready for 5.10 in Squamish. Quote
Dru Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 The only consistent thing about climbing grades is that no one can agree on them! Quote
David_Parker Posted March 6, 2002 Posted March 6, 2002 I learned to rock climb at index and in 11worth. When I went to Yosemite, I thought the grades were easier. I'm not qualified to rate climbs because I'm always confused. My $.02. Quote
Charlie Posted March 6, 2002 Posted March 6, 2002 Personally, I use leavenworth ratings as a benchmark "that jtree 5.6 is lworth 5.9. that vantage 5.10 is lworth 5.8...blah blah...turn the radio up...check out that chick over there...is that capt caveman passed out over there...blah blah..." (my usual banter at the crags) Quote
max Posted March 6, 2002 Posted March 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by erik: i always thought that canary was classic 5.fun++ with a little heady challenge thrown in for good measure.....but as always all grades are subjective from person to person, area to area.......i have never really nitced the huge differences from areas to areas...but then again i am trying on focusing on the climb and not the numbers.... Eric, you're so Zen! Quote
Retrosaurus Posted March 6, 2002 Posted March 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by OfficeSpace: Damnation is no offwidth eh? Let me watch you to see if you cannot get an armbar I never got fists on damnation but did seem to get half my body in there. I never laybacked either. I think maybe you should check some definition of offwidth or maybe me. I am concentrating on my numbers. I want to know what people think Canary is rated.. Half of your body, fists for a real climber.Works for me! Quote
Retrosaurus Posted March 6, 2002 Posted March 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by mattp: I think Crack of Doom is hard. That is one of those L'worth climbs that I believe has a "stiff" rating. Maybe I'm just old and weak. Crack of Doom was 5.9 when I first climbed it. The jams are rip-my-arm-off solid. Any one else find the no-hands rest near the top of the crack? Quote
Retrosaurus Posted March 6, 2002 Posted March 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by chucK: Do you exit left or right at the top of the handcrack? Exiting left seems much more difficult. Exit right. As I see it, the exit left belongs to Devil's Delight. Devil's Fright. Now there's one that is make-me-puke strenuous for its grade. Quote
Charlie Posted March 6, 2002 Posted March 6, 2002 Angel is only 5.10A! I am a fat ass and I can send it, therefore, it can't be harder than 10A. Anybody ever fallen off of the second pitch (first move) of canary? -just curious. How 'bout crack of doom- any of you guys ever done it? I tried it and hung on every other piece. (I'll get her this year!) Quote
ScottP Posted March 6, 2002 Posted March 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by OfficeSpace: Yes but don't you think Roger has climbed it before the "Physical Change" as well as after? I think if he states it is a certain rating it just might be. Maybe Roger is old school sandbagging us? Roger's comment about Angel Crack:"Angel has gotten more difficult with the grease, rubber and rounding of edges." I climbed Angel Crack for the first time in 1983 and again as recently as two years ago and I have noticed the change, both in characteristic and difficulty (though the latter may stem from me getting old .) Quote
Szyjakowski Posted March 6, 2002 Posted March 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: Crack of Doom was 5.9 when I first climbed it. The jams are rip-my-arm-off solid. Any one else find the no-hands rest near the top of the crack? Do you mean the big fat lounger that is stocked with freshies...and I don't mean snow...yeah, that is a goooooood rest duuuuuuude. Quote
Charlie Posted March 6, 2002 Posted March 6, 2002 Looks like you guys got lucky last weekend, damn it! it's dumpin snow here in eburg so I'm sure the same is true for lworth- Guess winter's not over-ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! Good thing I'm going to mexico next week Quote
Chepe Posted March 6, 2002 Posted March 6, 2002 Charlie, You should have gone to Canada with us. Lots of t-shirt weather. Free place to stay and nice partyin'. Man that granite up there is kick ass. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.