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Paco

What's up with this shite?

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Dru said:

mixed climbing is not stupid and dumb, but that a 30' route with no ice is proclaimed as the "hardest mixed route in the state" is stupid and dumb. about like calling a 1 pitch climb on some high crag the "hardest alpine route in the Cascades" rolleyes.gif

 

It's important to qualify this. It is the most difficult bolted mixed route in the state currently reported. There is ice on it, but as with many mixed routes there is a lot more rock. A lot of people may feel that this is splitting hairs, but regardless of how long it is, the route is hard. It is a bit longer than the thirty feet reported here, but still not that incredibly long.

 

I believe that this particular route and the other crags I mentioned in a previous post are nothing more than exploratory in nature. New routes will be developed in the coming years that are far more challenging... It will not be long before Guru is nothing more than a step in future climbers quests to climb harder routes.

 

There are certainly many alpine routes or large thin waterfall routes throughout the state that could easily be considered far more difficult as the mixed nature doesn't provide bolts, but requires traditional gear, short ice screws and pins to protect. Washington State currently does not have that many people with the mixed skills to attack these routes. Short semi-safe bolted mixed climbs may change that. And honestly, I hope it does.

 

Jason

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I'm glad this area has been developed. These style routes are the norm just about everywhere except WA. As for the fixed cable draw at the lip (which is way long). It should be removed just to help keep these routes slightly lower on the visibilty radar.

I haven't tried the M9 but as for the rating, I am a little skeptical and plan on trying it with spurs in nov,or dec.

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well said Jason!.

I would like to point out a couple of facts. The number of cracks and natural protection features is limmited. Between these naturally protectable lines there are holds people can climb on- hence bolting is the way to protect these things. Also bolting was going on for decades-look at all these older aid lines. i don't see anybody questioning these climbs.

as the new techniques and styles develop people will experiment with them. after all you need to learn how to put up a new route somewhere. a chossy moss ovegrown heap pile looks like to me a good place to start.

Climbing have changed, styles have changed, gear have changed, get on with it people! i don't say bolt every piece of rock. but on the other hand to a young punk boulderer your big mountain boots and ice axe look as loughable as their crash pad and chalk bucket. people, it's all climbing, just different angles. just let it be...

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Jens said:

 

I'm glad this area has been developed. These style routes are the norm just about everywhere except WA. As for the fixed cable draw at the lip (which is way long). It should be removed just to help keep these routes slightly lower on the visibilty radar.

I haven't tried the M9 but as for the rating, I am a little skeptical and plan on trying it with spurs in nov,or dec.

 

Right on man!! thumbs_up.gifwazzup.gif Do it!!!

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are spurs gonna be much use for a vertical face anyhow?????

 

the best use is for heel hooking your tool for a hands off rest on a roof yellaf.gif

 

dont forget to hook your leashless tools together by the handle and sit on the pick for the "no hands dildo rest" as invented by Dave Dornian yellaf.gif

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Peter Puget is a little liberal with his edit button. I would like to know what was found so objectionable in a couple of my posts? wazzup.gif

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Jason_Martin said:

It's important to qualify this. It is the most difficult bolted mixed route in the state currently reported. There is ice on it, but as with many mixed routes there is a lot more rock. A lot of people may feel that this is splitting hairs, but regardless of how long it is, the route is hard. It is a bit longer than the thirty feet reported here, but still not that incredibly long.

Jason-

That's not splitting hairs, that's stating the obvious. For any kind of climbing, what is widely considered the current hardest route is the hardest reported (if it's not reported does it exist? If a tree falls in the woods and no one can hear it, doe sit make a sound?) - and inevitably there will come some route to surpass it in difficulty. Unfortunately the routes that preceded it, somewhat irrespsective of their quality, will still see traffic as local testpieces, etc.

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Billygoat said:

Peter Puget is a little liberal with his edit button. I would like to know what was found so objectionable in a couple of my posts? wazzup.gif

 

Now why do you assume I used the edit button? rolleyes.gif

 

 

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Cause it says so at the bottom of my posts, from early on in this thread, that you erased...?!

 

How were you able to do that? You are not a moderator for this thread

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Egads that was a week ago when this thread started in the RC forum. A bunch of spray type comments were removed then. Then someone asked that it be moved to the Ice forum. So I moved it. I thought you meant something more recent than last week!

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Peter_Puget said:

Egads that was a week ago when this thread started in the RC forum. A bunch of spray type comments were removed then. Then someone asked that it be moved to the Ice forum. So I moved it. I thought you meant something more recent than last week!

take it to spray already. rolleyes.gifwave.gif

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Jens,

 

Don't get to cocky on the rating. I think Guru is solid M9. I have not climbed it but I have climbed M9 in CO,and many M8s in Canada, and have climbed alot with the first acensionist of Guru. Remember M8 is not considered hard these days. The ratings in WA are right on, Probably a little stiffer than CO and very close to Canadian Rockies. Those routes are great for WA.

I agree with Bob. These routes will do more for the individual who embraces them then those that don't.

I played a major role in developing the Tool shed and yes the routes are short. But they do have ice and they are super fun. The left hand route is call Anialator WI6 M7+, the righthand route is Gorilla Bar and is M8. The next route is unnamed and was left as a Toperope problem from the Tabasco Kidd anchors. Tabasco Kidd is the Ice climb on the right and is WI 4 in early season and quickly turns to grade 3 in most years. It has bolt achors and one can lower and clip one directional bolt for the top rope problem.

 

Dale

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