Juan Posted September 10, 2003 Share Posted September 10, 2003 Help! I don't usually ask these questions, but I need advice. I've got a friend coming in from CA on Thurs., and our best-friend wives are going to let us go out on Friday, all day, to climb something. As we have six kids under seven years old between us, two of which are newborns, the fact of this hall pass is amazing. So we must seize the moment big time. He has climbed Shasta and Rainier (the latter with a guide), but no rock. He is in great shape, very athletic, and enthusiastic. Trouble is, the fire reports are suggesting that: (1) Sahale and/or Sharkfin may be in smoke from J'Berg; (2) WA Pass also smoky?; (3) Chiwawa road closed, so no Maude N. Face or Lyman Glacier routes? What do you guys/gals know? I don't know if I can bear to climb the Tooth or Ingalls again. Not sure he has enough experience for Stuart N. Ridge. Maybe W. Ridge. Any ideas here? We are looking for up to a 12-hour day. Don't mind a grunt, and we could probably get up to 5.7 with a quick on-the-spot tutorial. Your thoughts will be appreciated! John Sharp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted September 10, 2003 Share Posted September 10, 2003 johnboy! for one low price i'll lead any pitch you want! get up early and make hte trudge to the ole snowy and such! the w ridge of the north twin. 4th class and a bike ride would be a good one!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ Posted September 10, 2003 Share Posted September 10, 2003 north face of vesper, corkscrew on sloan (if you're fast hikers) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted September 10, 2003 Share Posted September 10, 2003 N. Face of N. Peak of Index!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted September 10, 2003 Share Posted September 10, 2003 Rock Butte!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted September 10, 2003 Author Share Posted September 10, 2003 These are good ideas. What about the W. Ridge of Prusik? I've never climbed it, and it sounds pretty mellow, albeit with a long approach. Erik, you know I don't mind a long walk now and again . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted September 10, 2003 Share Posted September 10, 2003 Juan said: These are good ideas. What about the W. Ridge of Prusik? I've never climbed it, and it sounds pretty mellow, albeit with a long approach. Erik, you know I don't mind a long walk now and again . . . heh supposedly i dont either! ha! w ridge is good. not that sustained and amazing area. where running shoes, bring a light rack to 2" and a 50m 9mm for an old goat like you, no problemo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted September 10, 2003 Author Share Posted September 10, 2003 Hey cool. Is this where you take potential girlfriends? Will the hike kill us? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted September 10, 2003 Share Posted September 10, 2003 John, there was some smoke in BBasin last weekend but not too bad once you climbed out of the valley. Sharkfin would be fun. Call the NPS and see what they say. We only saw a few people up there all weekend. BTW, belated congrats. I haven't been in contact much lately but will do better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted September 10, 2003 Author Share Posted September 10, 2003 Bob: What did you do in B. Basin, and where have you been since, uh, May? Missed you at my birthday; still waiting for my present. Juan P.S. The baby and Kirsten are fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted September 10, 2003 Share Posted September 10, 2003 It sounds to me like you are looking for adventure more than a hike. If this is true, I recommend the w ridge of Stuart. There was a good description given a few days ago in the Alpine Lakes forum. It is a really nice long granite climb. Mostly 3rd class with a little 5th near the summit. One 100' rope is all you need plus a few peices (stoppers to 1 1/2") to protect a 80' 5.6-5.7 pitch. You may want a gold Camelot to protect the short 5.7 on the summit block. Descend the Cascadian and cut straight over to the Ingalls parking lot with one minor hump over the ridge. I did it in an easy day a few years ago. I drove to the TH late the night before and bivied there. At first light I was off and jogging (about 5:30 or 6). I was on the summit at 10:30 going medium fast. I was alone and without a rope or pack but the two short pitches shouldn't take much more time. If you have not done this route, it is really fun and very doable in a day. I had a large fanny pack with climbing shoes, 1 ltr water, lunch, and a raincoat. I refilled the water at Ingalls lake and put 2 iodine tabs in it. Pack light. Go fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pms Posted September 10, 2003 Share Posted September 10, 2003 Juan, You might consider a traverse where you could get multiple summits. Just a thought.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted September 10, 2003 Share Posted September 10, 2003 Mount Baker or Three Fingers might offer some fun. Baker of course lacks the moderate rock that you described, but it is one hell of a beautiful mountain, and on Three Fingers you could start with the North Peak, and then hit Middle and South if time permitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pzack Posted September 10, 2003 Share Posted September 10, 2003 Mt. Shuksan, Sulfide glacier A scenic hike, an easy glacier, a fun summit scramble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted September 10, 2003 Share Posted September 10, 2003 Juan said: Hey cool. Is this where you take potential girlfriends? Will the hike kill us? W. Ridge of Prusik sounds like a longer trip than you had planned: 20+ miles with 6000+' of elevation gain......plus the climbing, which is moderate but exposed (might be a bit much for your inexperienced partner) and includes the unprotected 5.7 slab. Good luck and have fun on whatever you decide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted September 10, 2003 Share Posted September 10, 2003 Juan, You might consider a traverse where you could get multiple summits. Just a thought.... Obvious baiting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sphinx Posted September 10, 2003 Share Posted September 10, 2003 You might consider bailing, the weather looks crappy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted September 10, 2003 Share Posted September 10, 2003 I think you guys might like the Roosevelt-Kaleetan traverse , but the weather looks iffy on the West side. West Ridge of Stuart as already recommended is probably a good idea, though it might be crusted with rime! Might take longer than Bug's time if you're doing belays with a rock-inexperienced person. It probably wouldn't happen to you; but, the route is somewhat legendary for route-finding-induced unplanned bivies. How much trouble would that get you in? If the West side is looking OK, you might also consider Little Big Chief Mountain (Up Dutch Miller Gap trail) or Foggy Peak (Monte Christo area). Little Big Chief is mostly hiking and scrambling with two 20 feet sections of probably-want-a-rope territory. If you take the East Face version, there is some clean 4th class (probably-want-a-rope) for about 2 pitches. Foggy Peak (N Ridge) has 3-4 pitches of clean granite 4th-verylow 5th on an airy ridge. Fairly quick and easy approach (if you have Mt bikes) with one fairly short section of steep bush. You can descend easily via the SW route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted September 10, 2003 Author Share Posted September 10, 2003 Hey guys: These are great suggestions. I thought about W. Ridge of Stuart. I did that one in '94 with a guy and we were really slow, though never off route. My wife did it in '99 with two old farts and they needed 11 hrs. car-to-car. I'm thinking Prusik because of the chance of better weather, drop dead scenery, and an easy climb. It will be a long day, but I think if we leave Seattle at 4:00 a.m., we'll be home before Sat. morning. Jim knows that my summit count this year sucks. Even one will help at this point! Bob is right about the obvious baiting. And ChucK, you know I love that Kaleeten Peak! Cheers all, Juan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted September 10, 2003 Share Posted September 10, 2003 You do know the stuart lk TH is closed right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted September 11, 2003 Author Share Posted September 11, 2003 Yep. Thanks though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.