New Squamish 14 pitch 11a

[Dru]

FYI

 

see here

[Peter_Puget]

14 pitches! They must be shorties. Sadly the only thing shorter than a Squamish pitch is an Index pitch

Beckey claims the Lizard route on the GNS is five pitches long!

 

Sounds like a fun route! I may not want to contribute to their brush supply/bolt fund but they at least deserve a beer after all that work.

 

[murraysovereign]

Peter_Puget said:

Sounds like a fun route! I may not want to contribute to their brush supply/bolt fund but they at least deserve a beer after all that work.

 

None of this was paid for out of any Bolt Fund - Kris does all his own work, and he does it well. He's the same guy who reclaimed "Calculus Crack" and "Peasant's Route", and put up "The Ultimate Everything." And yeah, he deserves a beer or two for his efforts

[erik]

murray i think peter was reffering to the lechers who are asking for money to put up new routes! not in dipping into the the replacing manky hardware fund!

 

[Peter_Puget]

Erik is correct!

[Dru]

PP might want to go climb the route before he discusses the pitch lengths.

[fern]

Those people have nothing to do with this route or with Kris though. maybe reading comprehension is not a strong suit here?

[Peter_Puget]

Fern- I know it was a joke that didn't translate well to the internet. But you do seem a bit testy as does Dru! 14 x 150' = 2,100 ft. Is the route at least 2,100? I was just commenting on how the NW has very few long pitch routes (I will admit slabs are the exception) eg Grand Wall lots of shorties. They are not all 50 meter ptiches on freeway either! By the way short pitches arent a bad thing.

 

PP

[Cpt.Caveman]

Go count the contour lines on the chief and you can find out.

 

Does it really matter - not much. I've seen plenty of short pitched routes claiming to be 15 or 16 pitches for example turning out to be 8 or 9 in far away places. If the climbing is good it's good.

 

Quit your bickering losers before I make some more death threats

 

Belays in comfortable spots might not be smart to pass up for a bolted shithead station hanging.

Edited September 4, 2003 by Cpt.Caveman

[Dru]

1) the route is as long as Grandwall to Bellygood plus Upper Black Dyke plus a pitch. sounds like 14 pitches to me?

 

2) Grand Wall is 450m high. But this route starts lower than grand cause Dihedrals begin at a lower elevation. 14X30 = 420, the average pitch length is thus calculated to be slightly longer than a half rope length to make it up the wall....

 

3) rather than establishing a pitch in the middle of wherever when you run out of rope is it not better to use a natural no hands rest or ledge? even if it means your pitch is only 30 or 40 m long?

 

4) if you want full rope stretchers PP maybe you could go to the mountains where simulclimbing may be required regularily between belays? i seem to recall Fern leading a number of 75m+ long pitches on Mt Athelstan a few years ago

 

not testy just wondering new MY PITCH IS LONGER THAN YOURS FORUM

 

3)

[Peter_Puget]

Dru said:

1) the route is as long as Grandwall to Bellygood plus Upper Black Dyke plus a pitch. sounds like 14 pitches to me?

 

2) Grand Wall is 450m high. But this route starts lower than grand cause Dihedrals begin at a lower elevation. 14X30 = 420, the average pitch length is thus calculated to be slightly longer than a half rope length to make it up the wall....

 

3) rather than establishing a pitch in the middle of wherever when you run out of rope is it not better to use a natural no hands rest or ledge? even if it means your pitch is only 30 or 40 m long?

 

4) if you want full rope stretchers PP maybe you could go to the mountains where simulclimbing may be required regularily between belays? i seem to recall Fern leading a number of 75m+ long pitches on Mt Athelstan a few years ago

 

not testy just wondering new MY PITCH IS LONGER THAN YOURS FORUM

 

3)

 

Ahhh In summary Dru is agreeing with me. But he is under the mistaken belief I like rope stretchers. Not sure where he got that idea - maybe the smoke is getting to him!

[snoboy]

Well, here's a topo for it any way, and PP, the Chief is over 2000' high I think, from sea level anyway. Kris was just telling me about how you probably wouldn't make it over the top on the last pitch if you had a 50m rope...

 

[scrubber]

Yup it's got some shorties, but I dare you to try to link anything but pitch 9&10! The rope-drag would be debilitating without double ropes or a quiver of double and triple length slings.

Also, please note that the "pitch" lengths in the topo are RAP lengths. The pitches may take considerably more line. And yes, please don't try the last pitch with a 50 m rope as someone mentioned. I'm not even sure you'd be able to reach a tree over the top, let alone make it the 5m back to the chains. I apologise for that, I try to keep them all under 50. You could always do a little pitch to the original starting point of that pitch, out to the left.

There have also been a couple of concerns voiced on the grade of the last pitch or two. The cruxes are short, but if you hit them in the heat of the late afternoon (as subsequent repeats have done) they may feel harder. Think of it in the same context of tackling 10+ or 11- on the Apron. Cool and dry are ideal.

Enjoy!

[gearheart]

This route looks fantastic - can't wait! People worry too much about grades - it's a new route, you gotta expect some uncertainty.

[jesse_mason]

so this climb starts just left of sticky fingers? I dunno if any one has the old guide but on page 80 you can see sticky fingers and deadend dihedral, where would the top of pitch 2 be in relation to the top of deadend dihedral?

 

And lastly did any one get on this thing? How is it ? any thing worth mentioning.

 

Thanks in advance

Jesse

[layton]

Jesse, it starts just right of Arrowroot and rutabega in a dirty bushy right slanting crack (5.8)

 

I backed off of it yesterday. Actually I didn't even touch the route, but I brought my shit to the base. 2 parties ahead of me, so it's getting climbed, thus cleaned. I talked to the party just starting up at the bar that evenign and they convinced me not to do it today.

 

They said the pitches were very wet esp p.7 (soaking wet) and since there's a lot of lichen on route, it would be doubleplus unfun after a rain. So I'll go do it next summer after the hoardes clean it (bring a brush and help it out).

 

Looks like some super fun alpinclippin.

 

ps. I did the 1st 6p of Unfinished Symphony (the long rt facing corner between snake and diedre) Fucking awesome! Thin thin thin thin awesome corner. Bring your tiny nuts n' big balls. I also discoved what a great climb the Great Game is! Those two climbs are among the BEST i've ever done in Squamton, although the 1st p. of the great game is a 60m ass kicker.

 

ps, please donate to the bolt fund at Valhalla pure

 

 

[jesse_mason]

Wicked thanks for the heads up mike, I was thinking about doing it tomorrow but I was worried about it being wet and sounds like it is, geuss ill go with plan b, which hasn't be hatched yet but maybe ill head over to unfinished sympony.

 

Thanks again

Jesse

[layton]

yeah, i feel like a pussy not leading the last pitch but my feet were really hurting. Rap off w/a 70m rope or bring some tat for slinging bolts to the right if you bail. Fucking hard for the grade. We thought the 5.9 was the 10d?!? Still not sure what pitches were what. They were all steep and thin above p2 (if it was p2.???)/

 

Anyone got a good topo of the Unfinished Symphone/Snake/Dream On/Anxiety state area. It's a total cluster fuck in the guidebook

[matt_m]

Heading up there this weekend and will check it out - anyone know if its still wet? been dry and sunny all week! Second the request for any info in the Unfinished Sym , Dream On, area. Also - info on Dancing in the Light - I'm on a mission to do some hard slab!

 

Topo for the Peasants Route clean up? Is that the one mentioned as a Work In Progress in the 2001 Guide addendum?

[murraysovereign]

Topo for the refurbished Peasant's Route is available at Valhalla Pure in exchange for a 50-cent donation to the Bolt Fund.

 

Millenium Falcon is apparently still wet on the first couple of pitches - given the topography and amount of vegetation immediately above these pitches, it's not surprising. Forecast for the next few days is hot and dry, though, so the seeping may have abated by Sat/Sun.

[Peter_Puget]

Looks like a fun route! Dru and I were just having a spray fest about the length of pitches. That's a whole lotta work!

[RyanTriplett]

I can confirm that this route is worth the time! Exciting roof and slabs end it all with moderate and enjoyable climbing throughout - Who cares about the pitch count.