Beck Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 new 'biners on the horizon, a 31g ! plus a 33 gram keynose wiregate...coming soon to a climbing shop near you.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 hey marmot dude. whynt you ask around among all the wealth of experience where you work before you make a stupid blanket statement. sub 35g carabiners have been available for a couple decades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 I dont think it was a stupid blanket statement. Although light biners may have been available I am sure it wasnt the same model he is talking about. Give the guy a break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 I have recently used three of the somewhat new lightweight biners.  Trango Lightweight  Omega JC Wiregate  BD Neutrino  All of these biners are about the same weight and each uses a wiregate.  The BD Neutrino is a great biner, however, it is too small for winter and ice climbing useage. Hard to work with when wearing gloves. Overall a great biner for alpine and even cragging.  JC Wiregate is a damn good biner and I am quite happy with the handfull that I have, and use. Also it combined with a Petzl pulley wheel is the lightest combo for a glacier rescue pully. Because of its somewhat unigue shape, it works perfectly with the pulley wheel, which is supposed to work with a classic oval.  The Trango is the best of the bunch. It is larger than the others and I like the action. The larger size (at the sme weight) makes it a better choice for winter and ice climbing. They are sold at Second Ascent in Ballard (Seattle). I have picked up a half a dozen and just love them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted September 3, 2003 Author Share Posted September 3, 2003 lummox, you're not suppossed to use keychain 'biners, dude!!!  trango superfly, 31g 8kn open gate strength  new wild country helium, keylock wiregate at 33g  these are the new lightweights coming around... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sphinx Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 Beck said: lummox, you're not suppossed to use keychain 'biners, dude!!!  trango superfly, 31g 8kn open gate strength  new wild country helium, keylock wiregate at 33g  these are the new lightweights coming around... That's just totally cool, Beck. Life-alteringly cool. Jesus, why do you always have to come here to display your (amazingly small) dick. Get a grip, man, you aren't God because you get the .5 gram lighter biners three months before everybody else does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted September 3, 2003 Author Share Posted September 3, 2003 ....there i go again, handing out some good beta on new gear and getting flamed for it!! har har har you yahoos,  i don't even work at marmot anymore, those (reserving comment on web site and will spray those losers in person, not on website)  let's just say i got fired over questioning return policy on climbing gear (don't assume your gear hasn't been used before you buy it from those guys!) as an issue for my termination  Beck     Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sphinx Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 Beck said: ....there i go again, handing out some good beta on new gear and getting flamed for it!! har har har you yahoos,  i don't even work at marmot anymore, those (reserving comment on web site and will spray those losers in person, not on website)  let's just say i got fired over questioning return policy on climbing gear (don't assume your gear hasn't been used before you buy it from those guys!) as an issue for my termination  Beck    So I can finally shop at Marmot again! Woohoo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attitude Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 Wild Country Helium  They are also coming out with 10 mm Dyneema Slings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 Beck said: lummox, you're not suppossed to use keychain 'biners, dude!!! werd. but faders had rated biners that they come out with in the 80s. red and blue colored to denote free or aid climbing (tho i cant remember what color goes with what). they look a lot like keychain shizzle but they got the kilogram rating stamped on em. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 what's up with the kilogram rating. what the hell does that mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 Beck said:plus a 33 gram keynose wiregate  Stupidest invention ever to hit the climbing world if it's anything like the DMM ones.  Let's take a really good design (wire gate) and screw it up so we can be first to market with a "cool" design...  Putting the knob (mass) on the end of the wire brings back gate flutter or slap, twisting the wire around to hold the knob makes them harder to clip. I see no advantage of a keylock wire gate over a Putzl Spirit or BD's new keylocks, except maybe a couple grams lighter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 iain said: what's up with the kilogram rating. what the hell does that mean? it was the 80s. like dayglo clothing was ever a good idea? give em a break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attitude Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 snoboy said: Beck said:plus a 33 gram keynose wiregate  Stupidest invention ever to hit the climbing world if it's anything like the DMM ones.  Let's take a really good design (wire gate) and screw it up so we can be first to market with a "cool" design...  Putting the knob (mass) on the end of the wire brings back gate flutter or slap, twisting the wire around to hold the knob makes them harder to clip. I see no advantage of a keylock wire gate over a Putzl Spirit or BD's new keylocks, except maybe a couple grams lighter. With the Wild Country, the gate is the same (maybe narrowed at the end) and a bollard shaped notch is in the forging. Yea, the DMM keylock wiregate is a bit contrived. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ursa_Eagle Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 Beck, don't listen to these fools. Thanx for the heads up on the new arrivals in the gear market! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackbolter Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 It is my fault. I souldn't have made him look so bad in the Marmot 900 fill debate. Sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sphinx Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 Crackbolter said: It is my fault. I souldn't have made him look so bad in the Marmot 900 fill debate. Sorry. Now crackbolter is a cool gear-dude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 amazing the amount of junk an innocent headsup post can generate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 iain said: amazing the amount of junk an innocent headsup post can generate 'innocent' my ass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attitude Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 lummox said: 'innocent' my ass. We've heard stories... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted September 4, 2003 Author Share Posted September 4, 2003 36 g 'biners are about the lightest you can get; fadedrs, i don't know about but i think they would have caught on if acceptable... lightest 'biner curently available is 36g, the nutrino...next year it is 31 gram.. how bad of a post is that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 Beck said: 36 g 'biners are about the lightest you can get; fadedrs, i don't know about but i think they would have caught on if acceptable... see the deal with acceptability has more to do with what people buy rather than what works. thus the demise of the dmm bettabrake for example. and the advent of the 'action suit'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 lummox said:but faders had rated biners that they come out with in the 80s. Â Yeah, thats what sprang to mind for me too, and somehow I thought they had a 33 gram model, I think a friend still has some on his rack. If I recall they were distributed by Lowe, a cursory google failed to turn up much of a reference, but I did learn that Faders is a separate Spanish company that makes carabiners, not just a model name that Lowe used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted September 4, 2003 Author Share Posted September 4, 2003 ..well, we're looking at "almost an ounce" 'biners from some companies, i'd have to agree, the DMM twised gate keylock carabiner is akward and posibly ill designed, lighter is the trend, and 36g has been the leading edge for 2 years...in5 years or so, i hope to see a biner that weighs less than an ounce,28.5g  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 faders and kong had the biners as low as 31g at one point but i believe these had too low a radius and were found to significantly damage the rope during falls.....  i have heard this can also be an issue with the nerdtrino   those faders biners were rated to about half the strength of other biners on the market like 13 KN or something IIRC. they wouldn't get CE approval nowadays (incidentally Big Bros doesnt get CE approval which is why you can't buy them in Europe) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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