Colin Posted September 2, 2003 Share Posted September 2, 2003 After doing some reading in Fred and Jim's books, I'm confused as to who made the first winter Index peak traverse (North-Middle-Main). Fred says: "(talking about the Main Peak) The upper N face was climbed at the end of the long alpine traverse from the North and Middle Peaks by Fred Beckey and Pete Schoening on August 13, 1950. The first winter traverse was made by Larry Cooper, Mike Marshall, Don Page, and Byron Robertson during January 29-30, 1977." Jim says: "In 1977, Steve Swenson, Todd Bibler, Gary Frederickson, and Reese Martin completed the first winter traverse (north to south) of the three Mount Index peaks." Nothing important, but I'm still quite curious. Ideas/Opinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted September 2, 2003 Share Posted September 2, 2003 I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted September 2, 2003 Share Posted September 2, 2003 Bill Sumner did a solo winter traverse. I don't know when he did it. Quote from Bill on regards to the traverse: "Stupidest thing I have done in my life" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 2, 2003 Share Posted September 2, 2003 maybe cooper, marshall page and robertson did it south to north? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted September 2, 2003 Author Share Posted September 2, 2003 Wow! A solo winter traverse sounds like it would be quite an adventure. I would love to read his account of that. I've always thought that the Middle-Main Peak Gully route he climbed with Fred Dunham sounded quite burly - "a 70 ft. vertical and overhanging waterfall about midway on the climb" as Beckey says. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted September 2, 2003 Author Share Posted September 2, 2003 I was also thinking that might be the case, Dru. Although, I would think that Beckey would mention it to be a south-to-north traverse, because he mentions that the second summer traverse was south-to-north instead of north-to-south. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted September 2, 2003 Share Posted September 2, 2003 Cmon Colin, spill the beans. I know you just did it! Was that a recon for a winter solo?? What way are you thinking of doing it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted September 2, 2003 Author Share Posted September 2, 2003 I just found out that Bill Sumner has never done the traverse in winter - only in summer. He has, however, done 4 different winter routes on the North face of the Main Peak! Only the one with Fred Dunham was ever written up. You bet it was a recon for winter, David! I probably wouldn't try that solo, though. I think that North-to-South is definitely the way to go (harder climbing, easier descents). It looks like it'd be an awesome winter climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwayner Posted September 2, 2003 Share Posted September 2, 2003 Not to diminish anyone's accomplishments, because the Traverse Route is a tricky one any time of year, but it seems to me that when it was done in winter 1977, that was one of those years when it was really cold and there wasn't a heck of a lot of snow. I seem to recall thinking, when I heard that it had been done, that it would have been a lot harder if it had been full-on winter conditions. It's possible that both parties could have done it that year. - Dwayner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Necronomicon Posted September 2, 2003 Share Posted September 2, 2003 Good luck Colin!! I know you can do it!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnV Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 I did the N-S traverse in summer about 20 years ago, and I'm sure I remember some summit register entries on the north and middle peaks that indicated that the two parties you mention found themselves on the traverse at the exact same time. My recollection is that they had decided to join forces, but that the coalition didn't hold. I don't think we ever saw a register on the summit of the main peak, so I don't know how it all ended. Maybe one group started first but the other finished first? In any case, it's not exactly the sort of route where one 4-man party can easily pass another, so I wouldn't be surprised to learn there was some contention. My guess is that Jim Nelson knows the details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted September 3, 2003 Author Share Posted September 3, 2003 Donn, I think that you are thinking of the team Jim mentions. I know that Swenson and Martin were heading up to do it when they coincidentally ran into Bibler and Frederickson, so the four of them teamed up. I know that the Swenson-Martin-Frederickson-Bibler team didn't run into any others when they were on the route. I'm thinking that there was a spell of good conditions, and the two teams of four did the traverse within a couple weeks of each other. Hard to say - I'll ask Jim about it tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 Dwayner said: Not to diminish anyone's accomplishments, because the Traverse Route is a tricky one any time of year, but it seems to me that when it was done in winter 1977, that was one of those years when it was really cold and there wasn't a heck of a lot of snow. I seem to recall thinking, when I heard that it had been done, that it would have been a lot harder if it had been full-on winter conditions. It's possible that both parties could have done it that year. - Dwayner Think of the FWA of Liberty Crack too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 I think it would be tough to do L Crack but there's a lot of bullshit up on mt index and it aint all splitter love either.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnV Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 Colin said: Donn, I think that you are thinking of the team Jim mentions. I know that Swenson and Martin were heading up to do it when they coincidentally ran into Bibler and Frederickson, so the four of them teamed up. I know that the Swenson-Martin-Frederickson-Bibler team didn't run into any others when they were on the route. I'm thinking that there was a spell of good conditions, and the two teams of four did the traverse within a couple weeks of each other. Hard to say - I'll ask Jim about it tomorrow. Aha! That makes sense. I knew one team ran into another up there, and I knew Swenson was among the names, but the brain cells that held the rest of the details are long gone. Let us know if you learn more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted September 3, 2003 Share Posted September 3, 2003 Colin said: I just found out that Bill Sumner has never done the traverse in winter - only in summer. He has, however, done 4 different winter routes on the North face of the Main Peak! Only the one with Fred Dunham was ever written up. You bet it was a recon for winter, David! I probably wouldn't try that solo, though. I think that North-to-South is definitely the way to go (harder climbing, easier descents). It looks like it'd be an awesome winter climb. Then maybe I was mistaken about his traverse. Sorry Colin. Or Bill lied to me about his accomplishment! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 Gee golly guys, this thread sure is nifty. Gosh! Colin, are you sure your up to it? Haha, just kidding! I wish I could hang here, but I didn't bring the cracker for the Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted September 6, 2003 Share Posted September 6, 2003 michael_layton said: Gee golly guys, this thread sure is nifty. Gosh! Colin, are you sure your up to it? Haha, just kidding! I wish I could hang here, but I didn't bring the cracker for the Uh......dude, you're quite a dildo. I'm surprised you didn't see this as another opportunity to post a photo of yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirp Posted September 6, 2003 Share Posted September 6, 2003 jkassidy said: michael_layton said: Gee golly guys, this thread sure is nifty. Gosh! Colin, are you sure your up to it? Haha, just kidding! I wish I could hang here, but I didn't bring the cracker for the Uh......dude, you're quite a dildo. I'm surprised you didn't see this as another opportunity to post a photo of yourself. DOH! Thats gotta sting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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