First Winter Index Traverse

[Colin]

After doing some reading in Fred and Jim's books, I'm confused as to who made the first winter Index peak traverse (North-Middle-Main).

 

Fred says:

"(talking about the Main Peak) The upper N face was climbed at the end of the long alpine traverse from the North and Middle Peaks by Fred Beckey and Pete Schoening on August 13, 1950. The first winter traverse was made by Larry Cooper, Mike Marshall, Don Page, and Byron Robertson during January 29-30, 1977."

 

Jim says:

"In 1977, Steve Swenson, Todd Bibler, Gary Frederickson, and Reese Martin completed the first winter traverse (north to south) of the three Mount Index peaks."

 

Nothing important, but I'm still quite curious. Ideas/Opinions?

[layton]

I did.

[Stefan]

Bill Sumner did a solo winter traverse. I don't know when he did it.

 

Quote from Bill on regards to the traverse:

 

"Stupidest thing I have done in my life"

[Dru]

maybe cooper, marshall page and robertson did it south to north?

[Colin]

Wow! A solo winter traverse sounds like it would be quite an adventure. I would love to read his account of that.

 

I've always thought that the Middle-Main Peak Gully route he climbed with Fred Dunham sounded quite burly - "a 70 ft. vertical and overhanging waterfall about midway on the climb" as Beckey says.

[Colin]

I was also thinking that might be the case, Dru. Although, I would think that Beckey would mention it to be a south-to-north traverse, because he mentions that the second summer traverse was south-to-north instead of north-to-south.

 

[David_Parker]

Cmon Colin, spill the beans. I know you just did it! Was that a recon for a winter solo?? What way are you thinking of doing it?

[Colin]

I just found out that Bill Sumner has never done the traverse in winter - only in summer.

 

He has, however, done 4 different winter routes on the North face of the Main Peak! Only the one with Fred Dunham was ever written up.

 

You bet it was a recon for winter, David! I probably wouldn't try that solo, though. I think that North-to-South is definitely the way to go (harder climbing, easier descents). It looks like it'd be an awesome winter climb.

[Dwayner]

Not to diminish anyone's accomplishments, because the Traverse Route is a tricky one any time of year, but it seems to me that when it was done in winter 1977, that was one of those years when it was really cold and there wasn't a heck of a lot of snow. I seem to recall thinking, when I heard that it had been done, that it would have been a lot harder if it had been full-on winter conditions. It's possible that both parties could have done it that year.

 

- Dwayner

 

[Necronomicon]

Good luck Colin!! I know you can do it!!

[DonnV]

I did the N-S traverse in summer about 20 years ago, and I'm sure I remember some summit register entries on the north and middle peaks that indicated that the two parties you mention found themselves on the traverse at the exact same time. My recollection is that they had decided to join forces, but that the coalition didn't hold. I don't think we ever saw a register on the summit of the main peak, so I don't know how it all ended. Maybe one group started first but the other finished first? In any case, it's not exactly the sort of route where one 4-man party can easily pass another, so I wouldn't be surprised to learn there was some contention.

 

My guess is that Jim Nelson knows the details.

 

[Colin]

Donn,

 

I think that you are thinking of the team Jim mentions.

I know that Swenson and Martin were heading up to do it when they coincidentally ran into Bibler and Frederickson, so the four of them teamed up. I know that the Swenson-Martin-Frederickson-Bibler team didn't run into any others when they were on the route.

 

I'm thinking that there was a spell of good conditions, and the two teams of four did the traverse within a couple weeks of each other. Hard to say - I'll ask Jim about it tomorrow.

[Peter_Puget]

Dwayner said:

Not to diminish anyone's accomplishments, because the Traverse Route is a tricky one any time of year, but it seems to me that when it was done in winter 1977, that was one of those years when it was really cold and there wasn't a heck of a lot of snow. I seem to recall thinking, when I heard that it had been done, that it would have been a lot harder if it had been full-on winter conditions. It's possible that both parties could have done it that year.

 

- Dwayner

 

Think of the FWA of Liberty Crack too

[Cpt.Caveman]

I think it would be tough to do L Crack but there's a lot of bullshit up on mt index and it aint all splitter love either....

[DonnV]

Colin said:

Donn,

 

I think that you are thinking of the team Jim mentions.

I know that Swenson and Martin were heading up to do it when they coincidentally ran into Bibler and Frederickson, so the four of them teamed up. I know that the Swenson-Martin-Frederickson-Bibler team didn't run into any others when they were on the route.

 

I'm thinking that there was a spell of good conditions, and the two teams of four did the traverse within a couple weeks of each other. Hard to say - I'll ask Jim about it tomorrow.

 

Aha! That makes sense. I knew one team ran into another up there, and I knew Swenson was among the names, but the brain cells that held the rest of the details are long gone. Let us know if you learn more.

[Stefan]

Colin said:

I just found out that Bill Sumner has never done the traverse in winter - only in summer.

 

He has, however, done 4 different winter routes on the North face of the Main Peak! Only the one with Fred Dunham was ever written up.

 

You bet it was a recon for winter, David! I probably wouldn't try that solo, though. I think that North-to-South is definitely the way to go (harder climbing, easier descents). It looks like it'd be an awesome winter climb.

 

Then maybe I was mistaken about his traverse. Sorry Colin. Or Bill lied to me about his accomplishment!

[layton]

Gee golly guys, this thread sure is nifty. Gosh! Colin, are you sure your up to it? Haha, just kidding! I wish I could hang here, but I didn't bring the cracker for the

[pope]

michael_layton said:

Gee golly guys, this thread sure is nifty. Gosh! Colin, are you sure your up to it? Haha, just kidding! I wish I could hang here, but I didn't bring the cracker for the

 

Uh......dude, you're quite a dildo. I'm surprised you didn't see this as another opportunity to post a photo of yourself.

[chirp]

jkassidy said:

michael_layton said:

Gee golly guys, this thread sure is nifty. Gosh! Colin, are you sure your up to it? Haha, just kidding! I wish I could hang here, but I didn't bring the cracker for the

 

Uh......dude, you're quite a dildo. I'm surprised you didn't see this as another opportunity to post a photo of yourself.

 

DOH! Thats gotta sting.

[layton]