Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
thelawgoddess

freesoloing in squamish

Recommended Posts

iain said:

are all canadians this surly? yellaf.gifwave.gif

fuckin a dude. a whole nation of passive aggressive types masquerading as being polite. you give em an inch an theyll burn yur fukin tent down and slash yur tyres. eh. guy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks, dru. some of those i already know i would never solo. funny that you mentioned klahanie crack twice, though, because that's definitely on my ticklist. thumbs_up.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

wasn't there talk about the ushba ascender slicing the rope if you look at it wrong rolleyes.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i've got a wren silent partner but rope-soloing is an entirely different subject. i imagine i will be doing some of that while i'm in squish, too, though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

raise your hand if you know someone whos gotten really fucking hurt fallin during a freesolo.

wave.gif

 

 

 

not to psyche you or nuthin. hahaha.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Garfield. There are never any people there either. I forget what the place is called but it's at the pullout at the top of the furry creek hill.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
iain said:

wasn't there talk about the ushba ascender slicing the rope if you look at it wrong rolleyes.gif

 

5kN is almost impossible to generate in a top rope set up. wave.gif i whipped on mine a bunch of times tring stuff with no damage and tlg pROBABLY weighs less than i do.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

doesn't bother me. how 'bout all those people that get f'ed up climbing WITH ropes? i'm not promoting freesoloing or trying to chestbeat ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dru said:

iain said:

wasn't there talk about the ushba ascender slicing the rope if you look at it wrong rolleyes.gif

 

5kN is almost impossible to generate in a top rope set up. wave.gif i whipped on mine a bunch of times tring stuff with no damage and tlg pROBABLY weighs less than i do.

 

agreed, good to hear some whippers have been taken on it. I happen to have one too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you can tell everyone Myushba Kozlov is the name of your Russian mail order belay slave too. yellaf.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thelawgoddess said:

Dru said:

tlg pROBABLY weighs less than i do.

yellaf.gifmoon.gif

 

 

dude im frickin scrawny these days, i must be down to 150, i fit into size 30's again. gotta drink more beer to put on the pounds for bivi warmth

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thelawgoddess said:

hellno3d.gif do i look like peter croft?

 

Not really, he's kinda short though... Hmmm. yellaf.gif

 

chucK said:I know you're not supposed to go out there early in the morning out of deference to the homeowners right nearby, but I figured since I was alone and being quiet it would be OK.

 

chucK - no worries really, it's just the Burgers and Fries and Neat & Cool areas that are an issue for the early/late thing. The intent is to reduce noise and shit, so a quiet soloist probably isn't going to raise much stink anyway.

 

 

chucK said:there's this excellent finger crack on the far right edge of the far right side of Neat And Cool. It's only about 8m high, so you're only in bad fall zone about half the climb, and all the jams are lockers. thumbs_up.gif

 

Kangaroo Corner???

 

iain said:

why was it [Alexis Crag] closed?

 

Because the landowner wants it to be. It will be re-opening again this summer, under an agreement between the landowner and the Squamish Rockclimber's Association, as soon as there is a new trail built, and anchors installed just below the edge, both of which will be happening soon hopefully.

 

In the mean time, it would be good if everyone stayed away. Climbing therre now may jeapordize future access. (the landowner is not climber friendly!!)

 

 

Dru said:

good easy squamish solos

 

sphinxter quits

bigdrink.gif

 

I think this may be TLG's fave route in the Bluffs! wink.gif

 

Dru said:

iain said:

wasn't there talk about the ushba ascender slicing the rope if you look at it wrong rolleyes.gif

 

5kN is almost impossible to generate in a top rope set up. wave.gif i whipped on mine a bunch of times tring stuff with no damage.

 

I can generate over 2kN just bounce testing gear. (That is to say I can rip stitches out of a screamer.) The fashion with some knuckleheads here is to clip into the Ushba with a 60 cm sling to increase the "exposure" and to make downclimbing easier. If they were to whip onto that near the top of a climb (ie not much rope to absorb force) I would bet they are getting pretty near the 5kN number. blush.gif That said, I have never heard of one failing in use.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd add Slot Machine - the 5.8 crux is right off the deck. And maybe (in the Peter Croft vein) Cream of White Mice -might as well solo it as there is no gear anyway on the crux 5.9 traverse....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

laughing crack too if you are willing to downclimb. i tried to walk off once and it was sketch-eee better to downclimb or tow a rap rope up.

 

who needs bolts cause it is basically a solo thru the crux anywaysand you top out in snoboy's back yard almost

 

first class and squatters rights

 

pink cliff up the 5.7 and down the 5.4

 

sally 5 fingers

neat & clean

stooges slab

high mountain woody

lighthouse park - all the easy routes

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I dont imagine anyone could fall out of Klahanie Trad Krack. I would have to say it's a go too. Shady and with water nearby make it a good one to do in the middle of the day heat cycle.

 

One of those climbs you could do over and over again.

 

Sally five fingers is good as well as Cat Crack.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
gearheart said:

I'd add Slot Machine - the 5.8 crux is right off the deck. And maybe (in the Peter Croft vein) Cream of White Mice -might as well solo it as there is no gear anyway on the crux 5.9 traverse....

 

There's some gear if you look hard enough. smile.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thelawgoddess said:

erik said:

freeway or nothern lights.

 

hellno3d.gif do i look like peter croft?

 

No, he's taller...duh. rolleyes.gifgrin.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
salbrecher said:

Garfield. There are never any people there either. I forget what the place is called but it's at the pullout at the top of the furry creek hill.

 

comic rocks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
snoboy said:

chucK said:there's this excellent finger crack on the far right edge of the far right side of Neat And Cool. It's only about 8m high, so you're only in bad fall zone about half the climb, and all the jams are lockers. thumbs_up.gif

Kangaroo Corner???

No. I just looked at the guide. It's right next to (or is?) "clean starts".

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
chucK said:

snoboy said:Kangaroo Corner???

No. I just looked at the guide. It's right next to (or is?) "clean starts".

 

That would be Clean Starts... smile.gif I did the first recorded TR-bowline on a coil-Chaco Sandal ascent of that a few days ago. laugh.gif Really.

 

There's a new route to the right of it now too. Also a new ptch to the right of Neat and Clean that ends with a cool mantle move. cool.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thelawgoddess said:

i've got several that i've done but it gets boring doing the same ones over and over.

 

Indulge us—sounds like you’ve done quite a few—which ones? ooo.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The slab routes on the left side of Fatty Bolger rock are basically high-ball boulder problems. they run 5.6-5.8

 

Also Banana Peel is so run out anyways, that I've often considered soloing it. There is one finger traverse move above the little steep section on the bolt pitch that I would still feel a bit sketched without a rope though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Sugar Loaf area is the best for easy soloing that I've found.

 

Others that I'd like to do:

 

Pixie Corner

Davy Jones

Cat Crack

slabs in Malimute

Jugs Slab

 

There are a bunch of other things too. Pixie corner is a totally bomber finger crack and is the hardest thing on this list. I think 5.7 or so(no it's not 5.8 or whatever they rated it).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×