freesoloing in squamish

[lummox]

iain said:

are all canadians this surly?

fuckin a dude. a whole nation of passive aggressive types masquerading as being polite. you give em an inch an theyll burn yur fukin tent down and slash yur tyres. eh. guy.

[thelawgoddess]

thanks, dru. some of those i already know i would never solo. funny that you mentioned klahanie crack twice, though, because that's definitely on my ticklist.

[Dru]

an ushba self-toprope belay device is only $93 cdn.

[iain]

wasn't there talk about the ushba ascender slicing the rope if you look at it wrong

[thelawgoddess]

i've got a wren silent partner but rope-soloing is an entirely different subject. i imagine i will be doing some of that while i'm in squish, too, though.

[lummox]

raise your hand if you know someone whos gotten really fucking hurt fallin during a freesolo.

 

 

 

not to psyche you or nuthin.

[salbrecher]

Garfield. There are never any people there either. I forget what the place is called but it's at the pullout at the top of the furry creek hill.

[Dru]

iain said:

wasn't there talk about the ushba ascender slicing the rope if you look at it wrong

 

5kN is almost impossible to generate in a top rope set up. i whipped on mine a bunch of times tring stuff with no damage and tlg pROBABLY weighs less than i do.

[thelawgoddess]

doesn't bother me. how 'bout all those people that get f'ed up climbing WITH ropes? i'm not promoting freesoloing or trying to chestbeat ...

[iain]

Dru said:

iain said:

wasn't there talk about the ushba ascender slicing the rope if you look at it wrong

 

5kN is almost impossible to generate in a top rope set up. i whipped on mine a bunch of times tring stuff with no damage and tlg pROBABLY weighs less than i do.

 

agreed, good to hear some whippers have been taken on it. I happen to have one too.

[Dru]

you can tell everyone Myushba Kozlov is the name of your Russian mail order belay slave too.

[thelawgoddess]

Dru said:

tlg pROBABLY weighs less than i do.

[Dru]

thelawgoddess said:

Dru said:

tlg pROBABLY weighs less than i do.

 

 

dude im frickin scrawny these days, i must be down to 150, i fit into size 30's again. gotta drink more beer to put on the pounds for bivi warmth

[snoboy]

thelawgoddess said:

do i look like peter croft?

 

Not really, he's kinda short though... Hmmm.

 

chucK said:I know you're not supposed to go out there early in the morning out of deference to the homeowners right nearby, but I figured since I was alone and being quiet it would be OK.

 

chucK - no worries really, it's just the Burgers and Fries and Neat & Cool areas that are an issue for the early/late thing. The intent is to reduce noise and shit, so a quiet soloist probably isn't going to raise much stink anyway.

 

 

chucK said:there's this excellent finger crack on the far right edge of the far right side of Neat And Cool. It's only about 8m high, so you're only in bad fall zone about half the climb, and all the jams are lockers.

 

Kangaroo Corner???

 

iain said:

why was it [Alexis Crag] closed?

 

Because the landowner wants it to be. It will be re-opening again this summer, under an agreement between the landowner and the Squamish Rockclimber's Association, as soon as there is a new trail built, and anchors installed just below the edge, both of which will be happening soon hopefully.

 

In the mean time, it would be good if everyone stayed away. Climbing therre now may jeapordize future access. (the landowner is not climber friendly!!)

 

 

Dru said:

good easy squamish solos

 

sphinxter quits

 

I think this may be TLG's fave route in the Bluffs!

 

Dru said:

iain said:

wasn't there talk about the ushba ascender slicing the rope if you look at it wrong

 

5kN is almost impossible to generate in a top rope set up. i whipped on mine a bunch of times tring stuff with no damage.

 

I can generate over 2kN just bounce testing gear. (That is to say I can rip stitches out of a screamer.) The fashion with some knuckleheads here is to clip into the Ushba with a 60 cm sling to increase the "exposure" and to make downclimbing easier. If they were to whip onto that near the top of a climb (ie not much rope to absorb force) I would bet they are getting pretty near the 5kN number. That said, I have never heard of one failing in use.

[gearheart]

I'd add Slot Machine - the 5.8 crux is right off the deck. And maybe (in the Peter Croft vein) Cream of White Mice -might as well solo it as there is no gear anyway on the crux 5.9 traverse....

[Dru]

laughing crack too if you are willing to downclimb. i tried to walk off once and it was sketch-eee better to downclimb or tow a rap rope up.

 

who needs bolts cause it is basically a solo thru the crux anywaysand you top out in snoboy's back yard almost

 

first class and squatters rights

 

pink cliff up the 5.7 and down the 5.4

 

sally 5 fingers

neat & clean

stooges slab

high mountain woody

lighthouse park - all the easy routes

[Cpt.Caveman]

I dont imagine anyone could fall out of Klahanie Trad Krack. I would have to say it's a go too. Shady and with water nearby make it a good one to do in the middle of the day heat cycle.

 

One of those climbs you could do over and over again.

 

Sally five fingers is good as well as Cat Crack.

[snoboy]

gearheart said:

I'd add Slot Machine - the 5.8 crux is right off the deck. And maybe (in the Peter Croft vein) Cream of White Mice -might as well solo it as there is no gear anyway on the crux 5.9 traverse....

 

There's some gear if you look hard enough.

[Greg_W]

thelawgoddess said:

erik said:

freeway or nothern lights.

 

do i look like peter croft?

 

No, he's taller...duh.

[Fence_Sitter]

salbrecher said:

Garfield. There are never any people there either. I forget what the place is called but it's at the pullout at the top of the furry creek hill.

 

comic rocks

[chucK]

snoboy said:

chucK said:there's this excellent finger crack on the far right edge of the far right side of Neat And Cool. It's only about 8m high, so you're only in bad fall zone about half the climb, and all the jams are lockers.

Kangaroo Corner???

No. I just looked at the guide. It's right next to (or is?) "clean starts".

 

[snoboy]

chucK said:

snoboy said:Kangaroo Corner???

No. I just looked at the guide. It's right next to (or is?) "clean starts".

 

That would be Clean Starts... I did the first recorded TR-bowline on a coil-Chaco Sandal ascent of that a few days ago. Really.

 

There's a new route to the right of it now too. Also a new ptch to the right of Neat and Clean that ends with a cool mantle move.

[thelawgod]

thelawgoddess said:

i've got several that i've done but it gets boring doing the same ones over and over.

 

Indulge us—sounds like you’ve done quite a few—which ones?

[Bill_Simpkins]

The slab routes on the left side of Fatty Bolger rock are basically high-ball boulder problems. they run 5.6-5.8

 

Also Banana Peel is so run out anyways, that I've often considered soloing it. There is one finger traverse move above the little steep section on the bolt pitch that I would still feel a bit sketched without a rope though.

[bigwalling]

The Sugar Loaf area is the best for easy soloing that I've found.

 

Others that I'd like to do:

 

Pixie Corner

Davy Jones

Cat Crack

slabs in Malimute

Jugs Slab

 

There are a bunch of other things too. Pixie corner is a totally bomber finger crack and is the hardest thing on this list. I think 5.7 or so(no it's not 5.8 or whatever they rated it).