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Dog Days Wednesdays


Dru

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Seems to me that Wednesday is the cruelest day of the week. pub club is over, you have found out what everyone climbed last weekend, and you dont know yet what you're going to climb next weekend. Nothing to do but work. shocked.gif" border="0

So we need some spray masquerading as a real topic here to get everyone posting and thinking about something other than the fact that there are 3 more days of work to go before climbing starts again.

How about: if you could define one day of ideal climbing - the best climbing day of your life - what would happen on that day? What would you do? With what and with who would you climb? would you be out in the mountains going for 24 hrs straight on a single push, or would you get in a few good crag routes with plenty of time left over to drink some [big Drink] , smoke a blunt, eat some good food [chubit] , and get it on with your SO? Would you even be climbing or would you be sitting on the summit of Mt Si in the rain, wearing plastic boots, tripping on mushrooms and watching bugs crawl around on the rocks? tongue.gif" border="0

[ 01-30-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

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Sunny day, alpine climb, with glacier travel approach and a multi-pitch crack climb to the summit. Paraglide off the summit and land in a field by my tent where dinner and a whiskey await. (yeah, yeah, so carrying all that gear on a paraglider might be a bit tricky...but hey what's a fantasy for, anyhow?)

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Croft soloed it first, in 83, he soloed the North Rib too.

Perry Beckham soloed the whole thing in 22hrs round trip from Squamish, of which only 3 hrs were spent climbing, the others were hiking and driving rolleyes.gif" border="0

I never heard crazy Maxim soloed it but I bet he did then flew his paraglider off...

I think Guy Edwards soloed it too...

Probably a bunch of others as well but they never sprayed about it cool.gif" border="0 so no idea as to who. Probably Hamish Fraser and who knows who else....

But I wanna do it too. even though its choss rolleyes.gif" border="0

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After running over all the possibilities my “perfect” climbing would start with an early morning drive over the pass through a torrential downpour. As we descend into the Columbia drainage the stunning sunrise sets our heart a pounding as we anticipate the cranking ahead. We climb all day. Old nemeses fall like cordwood. New problems are vanquished before they appear. Lambone is overhead commenting, “man those cats would rule the gym” as he passes by. On the drive home we recount the day’s adventures, the envious look of other climbers, the lustful stares of the young girls. Dropping my partner off at his house he asks if we are going back next week and I reply, “Sure Pope. Another Vantage weekend it is!” On the drive home I can hardly wait for the weekend to arrive.

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Climbing through the underbrush of huge MJ Plants and attaching them to my pack so that on the glacier, in the tent and on some outcrop of rock, I can sit and smoke under the beautiful blue sky above me and Super thick billowy clouds below me so I feel like i'm on an island....small breeze 55 Degrees

Oh, and I didn't even get winded. and my pack was super light

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quote:

On the drive home we recount the day’s adventures, the envious look of other climbers, the lustful stares of the young girls. Dropping my partner off at his house he asks if we are going back next week and I reply, “Sure Pope. Another Vantage weekend it is!” On the drive home I can hardly wait for the weekend to arrive.[/QB]

Peter, this could be arranged. My guide's fee is a bargain at $250 per diem. You would not be allowed to refer to me as your "partner", although you could call me your "climbing partner".

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quote:

Originally posted by Peter Puget:
Sometimes the gulf between our fantasy and our mundane existence is simply too far.... I am glad I left out the part about the goodbye kiss tho!

PP

Reality of fantasy? Either way, you'd be kissing nothing but my ass.

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quote:

Originally posted by Dru:
How about: if you could define one day of ideal climbing...

Ideal, you say? Well, leaving Seattle early, driving in the rain to Squamish with hopes for some miraculous dryness right around the Chief, too wet, driving back to Leavenworth, still raining, continuing on to Vantage - pouring, proceeding to Smith - drizzly, windy and cold, turning around, stopping at the grocery store, buying a Powerball ticket and arriving home late Sunday night. In a month or so going back to Smith, checking the ticket and finding you won 30 million, driving to Bend, buying a Polaroid, taking a pic of your ass, sending it to the boss and then... actually DO all of the above, in a row, and then again and again!

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quote:

Originally posted by Dru:
How about: if you could define one day of ideal climbing - the best climbing day of your life - what would happen on that day? What would you do? With what and with who would you climb?

50 degrees, sunny, calm, not a single person in the Valley except me, my partner Jamie, his SO, and Malia Jones. We arrive at the base of the column pre-dawn and rack up. As the sun crests the horizon we start up Astroman cruising it with no falls in 2 hours. We smoke a bowl of some Dhurban on the summit and base jump back to the valley floor, skillfully riding the currents and landing at the base of the NW face of Half Dome, thereby avoiding the North Dome gully descent and the slabs approach. By now the women are well on their way up the John Muir trail toward the summit of HD with 20yr old single malt, smoked salmon, thai food, a 2ft glass bong, Samuel Smith's Oatmeal Stout, Boddingtons, and bivy gear. The air temps now hitting 70 we jump on the Reg route and reel it off in a leisurely 6 hours, topping out two hours before sundown. Kicking back, smoking down, and drinking up, we enjoy the pristine silence of an empty Yosemite with our women. A nightful of shaggin (at least me and Malia will be shaggin) and we awake to the rising sun, completing the best day I could possibly ask for.

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It seems like I've had the "best day ever" happen to me several times. I've been finishing a day that seemed so regular...no huge climbs, no super hard pitches, maybe not even that long of a day. But as I'm walking back to the car I think to myself "This is probably the best day of climbing ever! I love climbing" Maybe I'm just easy to please. Maybe I've got bad memory.

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