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Posted

Like other unemployed students, I have a time off during the last week of March. My problem is deciding where to go. Last year it was Yosemite, but conditions are rather unpredictable during that time of year. I was thinking of the Southwest or perhaps Banff?

I would like to hear others picks for spring climbing (trad, alpine, ice) destinations.

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Posted

Tuscon AZ

Mt. Lemmon's within ten minutes, has great bolted and gear climbs on clean granite similar to j-tree's, and doesn't experience near the crowds and scene of j-tree.

http://isaac.exploratorium.edu/~pauld/climbing/mtlemmon/windypt.html

http://www.climbingsource.com/LocalBeta/Arizona/mtlemmon.html

Cochise Stronghold is within an hour and a half of Tuscon and has mostly trad and some bolted multipitch climbs. Note quite a few of the AWESOME climbs in the eastern Stronghold are closed spring and summer, but the west stronghold has plenty to offer. Also, camping in the Stronghold is great: secluded, un-trashed, and close to the climbs.

http://home.attbi.com/~cspieker/slides/arribas/arribas.htm

http://www.climbingsource.com/LocalBeta/Arizona/cochisestronghold.html

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Posted

I been to Vegas and Cochise twice each so I can compare and contrast those for you.

Cochise is more of a wilderness experience, less people, nice camping. I don't think the climbs are as concentrated, at least after the closure (Feb 15 - June) of the Rockfellow Domes. It's also a bit more expensive to get down there than Vegas, and a bunch more hours in the car if you're driving. Alaska has direct flights to Tucson now. Sometimes you can get a special but I doubt it during Spring Break.

Vegas is more convenient, but more crowded. The campground there is a dusty, windy, often crowded amphitheater pit that costs $10/day[?]. Next time I go to Vegas I'm gonna take advantage of the millions of hotel rooms. The climbs are more user friendly at Red Rocks, lots of holds and pro and more hand-friendly rock than Cochise. There's lots of great long climbs at Red Rocks. Cochise climbs top out at 4-5 pitches max, maybe 6 on the Sheepshead.

Arizona climbs are generally sandbagged. Red Rocks grades are usually soft.

Cochise might be a better Fall destination because you'll be more honed for the runouts, sandbags and rough rock, plus the Rockfellow Domes are open then. It's probably more crowded in the Fall though. If secluded nice car camping is very important to you, then Cochise (West side) is a clear choice.

Email or pm if you need more beta.

Chuck

Posted

max, I like the picture of the top of the fourth pitch of Warpaint. That's a great route, too.

Chuck, the Sheepshead has routes up to ten pitches in length. Absinthe of Mallet is the best, IMO, and is nine pitches long.

I lived in Tucson for six years, and have lots of ideas for routes to climb there. email me for beta.

Red Rocks is frustratingly crowded in the spring, but there's much more socializing potential.

March can be good for J-tree, but it's often very windy during that month.

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