Superman Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 Climbed the NE Buttress of Goode from Rainy Pass 7/4-7/6. The creek crossing is rather cruxy with only a small, slippery log spanning it. The snow bridge has already collapsed just upstream from the log (~1 mile upstream from Grizzly Camp). There is a rather large snowbridge about 3/4 mile further up the N. Fork that should remain for another couple of weeks, but would take you out of the way if trying to bivvy at the usual ~5100' bivvy spot. The glacier is straightforward right now except for the snowbridge spanning the moat at the base of the buttress which is deteriorating fast. I expect it will get a lot more interesting to gain the lower buttress in 2 weeks. A large portion of the glacier has fallen away into the great abyss adjacent to the lower buttress ... had that snowbridge not been there, it would have required some degree of creativity to gain the lower buttress (there are other ways, but they aren't pretty). Climbing was technically fairly easy and very enjoyable. We roped up for most of the route above the middle 600' of class 3 and 4. From there, we belayed about 9 pitches to the summit (at ~45 minutes per pitch, this was very time consuming). I highly suggest going with a 2 person rope team. Belaying 9 pitches really wasn't necessary in my opinion, but it's all going to depend on your comfort level on low-mid 5th class with blocky holds (but insane exposure). The descent was fairly spicy in places due to loose rock. I suggest going with a base jump from the summit. This climb was epic. With our 3 person rope team combined with a late start (alarm clock issues combined with weather issues -- it's a long story), we wound up doing an unplanned bivvy on a ledge at ~8500'. It made for a very cold, but beautiful bivvy. It was a real character building experience. Mosquitoes were pretty nasty and black flies are beginning to appear. If you're not into that sort of thing, bring plenty of juice. Overall an exciting climb on arguably one of the most rugged peaks in the range. If I could do it again I would have gone in from Stehekin and taken an extra day. The 15 mile trail slog was not very fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 Right on! Did you hike over or come back to your camp via Storm King col? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenfork Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 Superman said: The descent was fairly spicy in places due to loose rock. I suggest going with a base jump from the summit. are you not superman? you couldn't just fly off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superman Posted July 7, 2003 Author Share Posted July 7, 2003 We came back via Storm King col, packed up camp in ~20 minutes, and headed back out to Rainy Pass .. it made for a v-e-r-y long day on Sunday. We got home this morning at 3:30. With the bivvy on the ledge, we had basically been going for 36 hours with about an hour worth of sleep in the cold (sleeping up there was not really an option after dark). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 If I did it again, I think I'd carry over. Our summit day was very long, and we made it back to the vicinity of camp (the one flat spot in the basin) well after dark. We scrambled up and down buttresses and in brush for a few hours before giving up. The rain wasn't pleasant. When light came, we realized we were sitting 5 minutes walk from our camp! We simuled all but 2 pitches, and still ran out of daylight. Moral -> Make sure you see your camp before the light fails... Congradulations on a good trip - it's a monster hike and climb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 Did you see a helicopter in the Logan area on Saturday or Sunday? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtnHigh Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 Nice climb (Forced bivvy) NOT= (sleep) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superman Posted July 7, 2003 Author Share Posted July 7, 2003 Stefan, No I did not hear the choppers, but I heard briefly what happened up there ... hopefully everything is going OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 Superman said: Stefan, No I did not hear the choppers, but I heard briefly what happened up there ... hopefully everything is going OK. whats going on up there?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 nothing to see here, move along Erik, back to the flock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sverdina Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 mvs said: If I did it again, I think I'd carry over. Our summit day was very long, and we made it back to the vicinity of camp (the one flat spot in the basin) well after dark. We scrambled up and down buttresses and in brush for a few hours before giving up. The rain wasn't pleasant. When light came, we realized we were sitting 5 minutes walk from our camp! We simuled all but 2 pitches, and still ran out of daylight. Moral -> Make sure you see your camp before the light fails... Congradulations on a good trip - it's a monster hike and climb! Yeh, we found ourselves scoffing at your 5.8 a1 rating for that final move as well. Seriously, the route is a punisher. I'm walking like a 90 yr old today. What's the deal with the 2nd rap from the summit? Could it be any scarier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tod Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 Superman said: Stefan, No I did not hear the choppers, but I heard briefly what happened up there ... hopefully everything is going OK. Really, what were the choppers about? Curious minds want to know.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klenke Posted July 10, 2003 Share Posted July 10, 2003 Greetings from Edgemont, South Dakota, which is on the edge of nowhere. Getting ready to harness the power of Harney Peak (highest peak in this state). All of you who complain about this ugly peak or that ugly valley should definitely not travel to far east Colorado or west Kansas or south Nebraska. That's some of the most boring real estate out there. The endless nothing. The only trees you'll see are the ones homesteaders have planted around their homes. Anyway, congrats on Goode NEB. Told you it was a spanker if you don't expedite your progress. I see you guys must have used that broad bivy ledge I told you about 8,500 ft. Ciao. Got to run before this town puts me to work doing something time consuming and unrewarding...like breathing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted July 12, 2003 Share Posted July 12, 2003 (edited) For any reading this, here's my opinion on how to do it from Rainy Pass. Drive to Colonial Campground late night before Day 1 and camp. Day 1; Get up and drive to trailhead and hike all the way to a bivy spot above lower cliff bands. BTW, if you guys had continued up to the snowbridge, you can get over lower cliff bands on far right. Day 2; climb route from base camp, go lite and fast, simul as much as possible. Do not rap from summit block, rather descend to black notch and rap from there into SE Couloir. 2 65' raps with one rope. Descend SE couloir, NOT Bedayan (sp?) couloir!!!! Return to base camp via Storm King col (one rap to glacier) If time, pick up camp and descend to Grizzly camp for comfy bivy and even a fire if you're so inclined. Day 3; enjoy the leisurely 15 mile hike out. We dubbed the approach/deproach "up hill both ways", but I found it an enjoyable trip with even a slight side trip to check out the deep canyon of Bridge creek. I think the whole ferry, bus, schedule probs, money thing would detract from the true essence of doing this exceptional route in a remote area. It's an easy 3 day climb and a real classic. Edited July 12, 2003 by David_Parker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superman Posted July 12, 2003 Author Share Posted July 12, 2003 I wouldn't suggest walking another mile up N. Fork to cross the snowbridge when the log works just fine. The slabs aren't problem enough to warrant walking an extra mile (plus whatever it is back down to the bivvy site -- maybe a half mile). Just my opinion. I've seen easier 3 day climbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted July 12, 2003 Share Posted July 12, 2003 oh yeah the "5.8" move wasn't at the summit but where the buttress became defined and steeper for a while. I was prolly just freaked in the mist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sverdina Posted July 17, 2003 Share Posted July 17, 2003 mvs said: oh yeah the "5.8" move wasn't at the summit but where the buttress became defined and steeper for a while. I was prolly just freaked in the mist. Just teasing... It can be a freaky out there, especially if you get off route and spend an unplanned night on a ledge. The grief never seems to end. Not on the way up, and certainly not on the way down. The traverse back to the SK col also was quite a bit farther than I expected. Still, a classic tho... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted July 17, 2003 Share Posted July 17, 2003 Definitely. Despite the unplanned bivouac (right next to camp doh!) it was a classic climbing experience for us. Wait a minute...unplanned bivouac _is_ the classic climbing experience for us! What's great is to climb some other peaks like Cutthroat, Mesahchie, Black, etc. and get a nice look at the line. From a distance, it's nothing but stellar. For sverdina: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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