nolanr Posted January 15, 2002 Posted January 15, 2002 Named after first ascensionist or feature works for me. Save the nonsensical, pea brained, potty humor names for sport routes where they belong. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 15, 2002 Posted January 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: Go tell Beckey Beckey is da shit. He tells you what you can do. Dont forget it I dont think there is another climber that I look up to more so chill buddy Quote
mattp Posted January 15, 2002 Posted January 15, 2002 "The Joke" is an old school test-piece at Bon Echo, in Ontario. On the first ascent attempt, the leader fell off and broke his leg. He healed, and went back for a second attempt. He fell off and broke it again. That's the joke (no joke). Quote
mmcmurra Posted January 15, 2002 Posted January 15, 2002 "Them" at Wall of 10,000 Insects, Index (even featured in photo form on this site!). You have to say it right to get the right effect... THEM. Quote
Charlie Posted January 15, 2002 Posted January 15, 2002 how about: ifyouassholesstealanymoreofmyanchorsatvantageiwillshootyouinthefacewithmyshotgun? Kinda catchy eh? Quote
willstrickland Posted January 15, 2002 Posted January 15, 2002 Or even better: IfyouneedtoboltthisactionIgota.270boltactionforya Quote
willstrickland Posted January 15, 2002 Posted January 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Beckey is da shit. He tells you what you can do. Dont forget it I dont think there is another climber that I look up to more so chill buddy I think you missed my point, which was that there are a billion routes out there named simply "The Beckey route". Dru busted on routes named after the FA team, so direct the at him, I think Fred is an amazing dude. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 15, 2002 Posted January 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by mmcmurra: "Them" at Wall of 10,000 Insects, Index (even featured in photo form on this site!). You have to say it right to get the right effect... THEM. That's a cool route! Quote
michaeljosephnozel Posted January 21, 2002 Posted January 21, 2002 One of my favorite trad routes names: Championship Wrestling (on Sentinel, East Face, Joshua Tree). The guidebook suggests gear to 5", but it's really more like gear to 9". Climbed it last Wednesday 01/16, and yes, deployed my #4 Big Bro near the top. Great fun; great route name. Quote
Dru Posted January 21, 2002 Posted January 21, 2002 quote: Originally posted by mattp: "The Joke" is an old school test-piece at Bon Echo, in Ontario. On the first ascent attempt, the leader fell off and broke his leg. He healed, and went back for a second attempt. He fell off and broke it again. That's the joke (no joke). The ice climb "Kitty Hawk" is named cause of all the air time logged by the 1st ascencionist.... 22 stitches i think... Air BC at pet Wall (SPORT ROUTE) has a similar story behind it... Quote
michaeljosephnozel Posted January 22, 2002 Posted January 22, 2002 Correction: Championship Wrestling is on Sports Challenge, East Face, not Sentinel. Quote
johnny Posted January 22, 2002 Posted January 22, 2002 I have noticed around here (NC) that if you like your drawers to remain clean it is a good idea to avoid routes with names referring to the crag or area. "Welcome to Moore's Wall" for instance, or "Surry County Ethics". Every Damn one of 'em seem to be super scary runout leads on marginal gear. These guys were NUTS!!!!! While Becky was flailing through some slide Alder stand (comparison, not condecension,please don't hurt me!), many of these unsung Carolina pioneers were 30 feet above some shitty little nut 4 pitches off the deck. YIKES!!! Also; "Head Jam" at Moore's, it's a big fat offwidth..... and "Shithook" which pretty much speaks for itself. Quote
glacier_dup1 Posted January 22, 2002 Posted January 22, 2002 I like 'Testicular Fortitude' at Peshastin - creeping up polished pebbles past a tri-cam in an arching sandstone flake - Last time I did it a few years back, my partner awoke a very distraught bat in the flake as he was seconding it - fortunately the bat had had the good manners to stay asleep as I was leading past. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 22, 2002 Posted January 22, 2002 quote: Originally posted by glacier: I like 'Testicular Fortitude' at Peshastin - creeping up polished pebbles past a tri-cam in an arching sandstone flake - Last time I did it a few years back, my partner awoke a very distraught bat in the flake as he was seconding it - fortunately the bat had had the good manners to stay asleep as I was leading past. I have seen dead bat carcasses there. It is actually called Testicle Fortitude Quote
jeffers Posted January 23, 2002 Posted January 23, 2002 "Fuzzy Undercling" in the Red has some depth to it. Quote
Richard_Pumpington Posted January 23, 2002 Posted January 23, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Heinouscling: "A Tale Of Two Shitties" at Smith. Supposedly the climb consists of two shit filled crack running parallel to each other.-Heinous Kind of ironic that a guy with the name of a SmithRock sport route, nominates this climb(with very vague beta, to boot!). Quote
Lambone Posted January 23, 2002 Posted January 23, 2002 "This Ain't No Pussy Crack" 5.10a ** -Squamish Stumbled across it while flipping through the guide book today. Quote
michaeljosephnozel Posted January 23, 2002 Posted January 23, 2002 As for "Tale of Two Shitties," Heinous has some vague beta--as pointed out by RP. The 1st pitch is indeed loose, and "shitty." The 2nd pitch, however, is the reason to make the ascent--a spectacular roof/traverse crack on good quality rock. The 3rd pitch is runout to the final anchor (at least in June of 1999--maybe a bolt was replaced since then?). I recall that the "Two Shitties" were the first and last pitches, but that the middle pitch was stellar. Have you climbed this route,Heinous? Quote
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