Pencil_Pusher Posted June 22, 2003 Posted June 22, 2003 Wow, that's impressive. Gosh, I can't even imagine it with my lazy-ass sitting here typing away. It would seem like one could shave a few more hours off the time by parapenting off the summit... I can't imagine the trip to the landing strip taking any longer than an hour, provided you don't crash and the winds don't take you to the North Pole. Â I'll be up for when Chad himself posts this trip report (why do others report for these people?). Â Quote
Hans_Blix Posted June 30, 2003 Author Posted June 30, 2003 So, more research has revealed that there IS a faster reported time by Anatoli Boukreev on Denali. It's even MORE amazing. 10 hours and 30 minutes, airstrip to the summit. I couldn't find any other details.  Check out: www.wwwright.com/climbing/speed/?record=alaska_climbs.htm  R.I.P. Anatoli. But hats off to your bitchin fast ascent. Quote
hikerwa Posted June 30, 2003 Posted June 30, 2003 Oh yeah, I never said... Â Right On Chad! Â I will drink one (or more) For ya.... Quote
jjd Posted July 1, 2003 Posted July 1, 2003 According to the book "Above the Clouds," Anatoli Boukreev climbed the West Rib in 10 hours and 30 minutes. This was documented in the October 1990 issue of Climbing magazine. Quote
JoshK Posted July 1, 2003 Posted July 1, 2003 Anatoli's time is sickly fast, but he only ran half the race... Quote
ryland_moore Posted July 1, 2003 Posted July 1, 2003 Does that time include Chad having to take breaks to throw in a dip? Thanks for the dip on Aconcagua, Chad. I needed it! Quote
Hans_Blix Posted July 4, 2003 Author Posted July 4, 2003 There are always complex qualifiers. Turns out that Anatoli's time is for the West Rib, as jjd reports. That would seem to mean from the base of the route to the summit. That's an entirely different, shorter and more direct trip than Chad's. SO, it still seems like Chad may have the fastest human time, both one way and round trip. Of course, other unknown details may exist out there. Quote
Dru Posted July 4, 2003 Posted July 4, 2003 let me get this straight, you are saying because anatoli took a shorter, more direct, more logical, and harder line, that his faster time does not count? you sound like you are biased...are you SURE you aren't chad? Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted July 4, 2003 Posted July 4, 2003 Hans_Blix said: There are always complex qualifiers. Turns out that Anatoli's time is for the West Rib, as jjd reports. That would seem to mean from the base of the route to the summit. That's an entirely different, shorter and more direct trip than Chad's. SO, it still seems like Chad may have the fastest human time, both one way and round trip. Of course, other unknown details may exist out there. Â wha? so you should take the longest line for a speed record? if i wantd to get a speed record on rainier shoudl i tak ethe tahoma glacier route? Quote
Colin Posted July 4, 2003 Posted July 4, 2003 Hans Blix said: "Chad Kellogg broke the previous speed record on Denali set by Alex Lowe. Alex's record is reported to be 18 1/2 hours (yet to confirm this, but the NPS reports this stat.) Chad went from base camp, to the summit in 14 hours, 22 minutes. He returned to base camp, round tripping the mountain in 23 hours, 55 minutes." Â and: "Check out: www.wwwright.com/climbing/speed/?record=alaska_climbs.htm" Â So, just to clear a few things up - Â The previous record of 18.5 hours airstrip-to-summit, was not set by Alex Lowe, but by some other dude, whose name I can't remember. When Alex Lowe made a speed-record attempt, he turned around in the vicinity of the Football Field because apparently it got really stormy. So, technically, Alex Lowe didn't make a speed ascent at all. However, from what I've heard - when he (Alex) turned around he was on pace to make the summit in 10 hours from the airstrip! Â That link (wwwright.com) has some other misleading information as well. When Mugs soloed the Cassin, he took 27.5 hours roundtrip from the 14k camp. 15 hours was his time on the route itself. Â Dru and Fencesitter, The reason Anatoli's time cannot be compared to Chad's is because to get to the base of the West Rib you first have to "climb" the first 1/4 of the West Buttress route. It would be equivalent to someone claiming a speed ascent of Rainier, via the Gibraltar Chute, but starting their stopwatch at the top of the Muir Snowfield rather than at Paradise. Did that make sense? Quote
Dru Posted July 4, 2003 Posted July 4, 2003 so Anatolis time was from base of West Butt or west rib sounds like both of you are ASSUMING it was from base of west rib not west butt? Quote
Hans_Blix Posted July 4, 2003 Author Posted July 4, 2003 Colin paints the picture better. Anatoli claimed the West Rib route, most folks start that route at the base of ridge, not the airstrip. Doing that eliminates a few miles of glacier travel and a few thousand feet of elevation gain. That's a big difference. You're right though, I don't know for sure where he did start the clock, but I have a feeling that he was hanging out at 14K and then descended to do the climb the Rib. Mug's did that too (but he skied the Lower West Rib to reach the Cassin.) I'm not saying that the fastest time has to be run via ANY route in particular. But I have a feeling the fastest time from the airstrip to the summit is Chad's. Anyway, what constitutes the base of the mountain? Perhaps Cook Inlet in Anchorage? Or maybe Talkeetna. Hey Dru, are you sure you're not Dan -? Quote
Hans_Blix Posted July 22, 2003 Author Posted July 22, 2003 I found this on Mounteverest.net. Â "Asia Tourism Ltd. is organizing the second international Festival ''Khan Tengri 2003.'' It will be held from July 17th to August 7th of 2003. The first festival was held in 2000. Part of this event is a speed climbing competition on Khan Tengri, 7010m. Â Asia Tourism has sent ExplorersWeb the latest list of entrants that is current to June 9, 2003. Only one American, Chad Kellogg, will be participating in the international competition. Chad has the widely recognized speed record for Mt. Rainier, in Washington State, USA. " Â Mounteverest.net also says, Â "For all the Cascade Climber fans out there, Chad Kellog arrived in Base Camp today. Haven't spoken to him much yet, but he is currently the only American competitor in the speed climb event. He's up against a bunch of Russians and Kazakhs. Chad just broke the Denali speed record this past Spring, and has some other US speed records as well. Judging from the Russian and Kazakh climbers here, though, Kellog's got his work cut out for him. Go USA!" Â Chad started from the Indian Ocean so that he could rightfully claim a "complete ascent." Dru, do you think they'll piss-test him like they do the Canadian climbers who spend too much at the Muir Hut. No Dan or Fido - to be found in Khan Tengri. Quote
Dru Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 I heard Dan - is there in drag trying to win the Women's competition Quote
Hans_Blix Posted July 31, 2003 Author Posted July 31, 2003 Race update from Mounteverest.net: Â "There's about 9 athletes, all Russian/Kazakh with one American, Chad Kellogg, representing... Chad has some heavy competition with the home team advantage, but if you saw the way he has been running up this mountain, this guy has a good chance. It's not that he runs or even seems to move that quickly, it's just that he never stops - like a machine...Chad is strong and he'll have the one other American (me) plus a rowdy crew from Iceland cheering him on from BC, and two Britt's on the mountain. So, if the weather holds tomorrow morning, about 7 or 8 PM EST stay tuned to the web for as complete coverage as possible. It's a 7+ hour event. " Go Chad Go! Quote
Hans_Blix Posted August 1, 2003 Author Posted August 1, 2003 CHAD KELLOGG WON THE RACE!!!!!! Â CHAD, WE ARE SO PROUD OF YOU!!!! CONGRADULATIONS TO YOU, WE ARE CELEBRATING HERE IN SEATTLE FOR YOU!!!! Â Quote
Hans_Blix Posted August 1, 2003 Author Posted August 1, 2003 THIS IS OFF MOUNTEVEREST.NET.  http://www.mounteverest.net/story/MissionaccomplishedAug12003.shtml  Mission accomplished 02:57 a.m. EDT Aug 1, 2003 Chad is back and Dave's mission is accomplished: "Aug 1 - 1219 hrs - 1984 = 2003 Absolutely incredible. Chad was in second and caught up just near the bottom of the route to win. We had no idea until we saw his head pop up over the horizon. The Iceland boys were further out on the glacier to congratulate him as he came in.  A whole gang of Koreans came by and after cleaning out the camp store of titanium equipment became Chad's biggest fans. Autographs, pictures, posing, you name it. We're all just chillin' at the foot of the glacier waiting for 3,4,5 to come in. Stoked - all we have to say. Listen to the Kellog sound bite." Audio  This event turned into an unexpected all-nighter at ExplorersWeb, updates twice hourly, the thrill close to the days of Everest summits when the team lost an average of 10 lbs each running between desktops to publish stories around the clock!  Congratulations Chad, and thank you Asia Tours from all of us at ExplorersWeb!  This is off another web site:  http://www.explorersweb.com/ex018/  Check out the sound clip. Again Chad, we're so, so proud of you. First Rainier, then Denali, now Khan Tengri!!! I'm sure we'll be reading more about Chad Kellogg.    Quote
Rodchester Posted August 1, 2003 Posted August 1, 2003 Â Â Â Â Will there be a welcome home party for Chad? Quote
Sphinx Posted August 1, 2003 Posted August 1, 2003 But what about Dan -? I thought he was going to win. Quote
lummox Posted August 1, 2003 Posted August 1, 2003 chad you make florida look bad. you think your all cool with your dimple and pregnancy and shit. Quote
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