ken4ord Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 With all the guide books out there I feel like a kid in a candy store and can't make a decision for a long alpine rock route. Been eyeing Index peak and will probably get on that especially before this winter so that I can get the lay of the land for the winter ascent. I don't know if that would fall in a classic category, but it looks cool. So I am putting out to you all. What is your favorite 1000+ foot rock route in the Cascades (up to 5.10)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 LIB CRACK DEBUTT OF SEWS E FACE LEX N RIDGE OF STEWIE SWRIB SEWS E FACE BRIDGE CREEK WALL COBRA S FACE PRUSIK Â THINGS THAT LOOK GOOD CLEAN BREAK CRYSTAL TOWER SOME ROUTE ON THE E FACE OF SEWS MT HARDY BOVING ROUTE DRAGONTAIL DOLPHIN CHIM(MORE OF A VARIATION) W FACE COLCHUCK BLANCED ROCK N BUTT COLCUCK PEAK N BUTT OF BEAR THIS IS ACTUALLY MY TO DO LIST THIS YEAR. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Natural Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 cathedral peak se buttress or s face    Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tod Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 Don't forget Burgundy Spire! I second the vote for N Ridge of Stuart, that's a great route, but make sure you do it complete, not starting in the middle from the glacier. N. Butt of Fury is classic but that's a bit more mixed mountaineering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 Erik's got a good list of climbs, though they are mostly 5.10. In that range, you might take a look at Slesse, as well. Â For something easier, and JUST PLAIN FUN, I'd take a look at Goode's NE Buttress. If you are the multipitch 5.10 trad/sport leader who solo's up to 5.7, you'll probably solo up and down it but it's still fun. Â I disagree with Tod about the lower half of the N. Ridge of Stuart. I thought the climbing on the lower part was fine but not great, and I'd do just the upper half of the route if I went back to repeat it. Â By the way, I don't think you'll find many people around here who would say that the N. Face of the N. Peak of Mt. Index is a classic alpine rock climb, but I would say that the traverse of all three peaks of Mount Index, usually done N to S, is a worthy summer outing. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 Bear! Bear! Bear! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 also check out darrington for long free routes as well....kinda like a mix of alpine and sport climbing...... Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 slesse, NE, navwall, EB direct, SEB rexford, ER, Pillar of Pi yak check matriarch Grimface traverrse macabre beckey/must/condon route another vote bear direct nb east face of the Deacon springboks steinbok edwards/spagnut  all other good routes are not in the cascades Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted June 10, 2003 Author Share Posted June 10, 2003 I guess it is time to break out the guide books and do some homework. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted June 10, 2003 Author Share Posted June 10, 2003 Hey Erik, So I got some questions. Prussik does it go free, (Becky's guide variation)? What is SEW? Where is Bridge Creek Wall? Cobra q'est se? Â Also if you need a partner for any of those that you listed they sound great so far the ones I found in the guide books. Colchuck, Prussik, Stewart all look good. Yeah, I know about Darrington and have been wanting to get there too. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted June 11, 2003 Share Posted June 11, 2003 Tod said: Don't forget Burgundy Spire!  On the contrary, forget Burgundy Spire. The rock is lousy, the climbing mostly forgetable, the only real noteworthy thing about Burgundy is it's one of the harder Washington summits to obtain. (no "walk-ups") The other routes mentioned are far superior.  A few others-  Mt Triumph, NE ridge Forbidden, any route Colchuck, NE Butt   Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Necronomicon Posted June 11, 2003 Share Posted June 11, 2003 Triumph looks rad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 11, 2003 Share Posted June 11, 2003 ken4ord said: Prussik does it go free, (Becky's guide variation)? What is SEW? Where is Bridge Creek Wall? Cobra q'est se? prusik goes free if you don't aid. SEW= south early winter spire,WA pass BCW &cobra are in the iciclecreek valley, L-town. Cobra is only 3-4pitches. BCW is many pitches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 11, 2003 Share Posted June 11, 2003 I get humor noting some people are dissing routes they have not climbed and recommending ones they have not done too. They could be right in the comments but just a thought. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalius Posted June 11, 2003 Share Posted June 11, 2003 Oh yeah, and you won't find anything on Bridge Creek Wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 11, 2003 Share Posted June 11, 2003 thats right only ticks and snakes and dirty mossy wet cracks and NO GOATS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalius Posted June 11, 2003 Share Posted June 11, 2003 and Erik and Szyjakowski, of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 11, 2003 Share Posted June 11, 2003 not until that damn sunshine cools her jets...Hot...I tell u....HOT in Leavenworth this last weekend...of course at 6700' it was nice and cool in the sunshine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 11, 2003 Share Posted June 11, 2003 My comments about routes. And most of them are found in guidebooks.  Prusik - Any way up should be good Stuart- NOrth Ridge Slesse- NE Butthole Index- left of NF - think it's 195? route or so. Forbidden Peak- ER direct   Obviously everyone knows about these routes. I dont include Wa pass spires because there is no actual alpine setting. It's more suited described as sub alpine but with excellent rock in most areas that are unmatched in nearly any part of the range. To sum it up it's just cragging near the road for most of the Spires but NOT all.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted June 11, 2003 Share Posted June 11, 2003 slaphappy said: Tod said: Don't forget Burgundy Spire! Â On the contrary, forget Burgundy Spire. The rock is lousy, the climbing mostly forgetable, the only real noteworthy thing about Burgundy is it's one of the harder Washington summits to obtain. (no "walk-ups") The other routes mentioned are far superior. The North Ridge variation to the North Face route is stellar. Incredible positions and huge exposure on a solid knife edge ridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalius Posted June 11, 2003 Share Posted June 11, 2003 Cpt.Caveman said: ...I dont include Wa pass spires because there is no actual alpine setting. It's more suited described as sub alpine but with excellent rock in most areas that are unmatched in nearly any part of the range. To sum it up it's just cragging near the road for most of the Spires but NOT all. Â Â Or "Alpine cragging" if you will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 11, 2003 Share Posted June 11, 2003 dalius said: Cpt.Caveman said: ...I dont include Wa pass spires because there is no actual alpine setting. It's more suited described as sub alpine but with excellent rock in most areas that are unmatched in nearly any part of the range. To sum it up it's just cragging near the road for most of the Spires but NOT all. Â Â Or "Alpine cragging" if you will. Â Â Depends on how you look at it. I just enjoy the crevasse walking and glaciers. You cant match that in the Sierras for instance. If I wanted to climb good rock I could climb at Wa Pass or I could go to the Sierras too. But the subject aint about that. Â Â Â Thinkin about Kangaroo Temple this season Elitism of a definition is so silly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted June 11, 2003 Share Posted June 11, 2003 Lillarete. Unfortunately it is not in the Cascades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 11, 2003 Share Posted June 11, 2003 snoboy said: Lillarete. Unfortunately it is not in the Cascades. Â Dont matter to me. If you think it's that good speak up beyotch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 11, 2003 Share Posted June 11, 2003 I hear Attitude is gonna get pagetop on Lillarete real soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.