Avalanch danger on Baker

[kakeandjelly]

a group of us are planning a trip up Baker this weekend on the Cloeman glacier route. any thoughts about Avalanch danger due to the warm weather???

 

Thanks

[Dru]

the warm weather is actually stabilizing the snowpack overall. look out for warm afternoons& cornice releases (on the Coleman Deming, maybe not ) . i'd say you should worry more about busting thru crevasses than getting avalanched.

[Lowell_Skoog]

With the freezing levels higher than they've been all season, it's a good idea to get an early start and try to be off the steep upper slopes of the Coleman-Deming route before the heat of the day. Also, minimize the time you spend below the serac on Colfax Pk as you walk up or down the Coleman glacier. Avalanche hazards are pretty predictable this time of year (low in the morning, rising during the day).

 

In July 1939 six college students died in an avalanche on the Roman Wall (upper Deming). An unusual occurrence, but it shows what can happen. Here's a reference:

 

http://www.alpenglow.org/ski-history/notes/ms/lds-avalanche.html#bh-1989-jul-23

[Dustin_B]

From above link:

"On May 14, 1922, seventy-five members of the Seattle Mountaineers started up the eastern slope of McClellan's Butte"

 

Holy shit!

[AlpineK]

Dustin_B said:

From above link:

"On May 14, 1922, seventy-five members of the Seattle Mountaineers started up the eastern slope of McClellan's Butte"

 

Holy shit!

 

That's a pretty common climbing story from the old days.

[allthumbs]

Chilkoot Trail was notorious for the onslaught of pilgrims heading for the Klondike for gold. I've seen pictures of over 100 men on the slopes caravan style.

[Figger_Eight]

AlpineK said:

Dustin_B said:

From above link:

"On May 14, 1922, seventy-five members of the Seattle Mountaineers started up the eastern slope of McClellan's Butte"

 

Holy shit!

 

That's a pretty common climbing story from the old days.

 

Dude...that's a pretty common climbing story for now

[Cpt.Caveman]

Last saturday I heard some big fucking slides coming down from north and east facing areas. Good thing I wasn't near the area

 

I agree with Dru only partially. I still believe there is a little danger potential out there. Specifically on that route I would be concerned on the Roman Ski slope area.

 

Cornice bit is a good thought too. Saw some of those fuckers laying on the ground last weekend too. When they come they are bigger than they often look from far away. Probably like dodging falling trucks from the sky or sumptin.

 

Cheers- I'm going rock climbing this weekend to steal one of Dru's routes up in BC or climb it with him if he ever shows up.

[JoshK]

I'll second that...witnessed plenty recently myself. The temps this week are supposed to top out tomorrow or saturday then start cooling down next week. That should do a good bit to stabilize the snow pack. Just use common sense, and travel when it's cooler in general.