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Everything posted by kakeandjelly

  1. I have read many posts that complain about the gate hours. I have been forced to start climbs late on many ocasions due to late gate openings, and I have had problems getting reistered for a climb due to hours held by park officials. For me it is extremely frustrating that it is so hard to get on the mountain while following all of the parks rules due to the limited winter access. I would pose two changes. 1: 24 hour park access for climbers to camp Muir. This may be a "good luck getting up the road" type access, and they may need to require a climbing permit and registration to get through, or something, but having to wait for the gate to open makes for way to late of starts 2: Rigistration for climbing somewhere other than the Museum. As a 9-5er, It is nearly impossible for me to get down to the park on Friday (or Thursday) night to register for a Saturday climb. This means that I will have to go down Saturday Morning, wait till 9:00am when the Museum opens, register, get to Paradise at 10:00, hit the trail at 10:30, not get to Muir till 3:00pm... It seems to me that these are not terribly difficult things to change, and If I am paying my $30.00 per year, I want it to work for me. I talked to a ranger, and she suggested emailing issues to the park and these things are read and considered, maybe if we all send in a note, we can work something out. Here is a link to the page: http://www.nps.gov/mora/pphtml/contact.html
  2. MSR Lightnings

    I am looking for a set of shoes for both me and my wife, mine would be both for climbing and back country "walking", and hers mostly just he walking part... I was planning on getting two sets of lightnings, but thought I had better ask around as $500 is a lot of cash for shoes... Any thoughts? Thanks
  3. Lets make Rainier more climber friendly.

    Yeah, I got the same response from my Query. I now also find it frustrating that the people that I pay, not only from climbing fees, but also tax dolors are so willing to close the book and be done with it.
  4. New year on success...

    Thinking of climbing success over new year weekend, weather permitting... any thoughts? I do not know alot about this route, but it looks like a decient winter climb. Thanks
  5. New year on success...

    Mike, Thanks for the suggestions. The plan at this point is to head to Muir tomorrow, camp out and hope for the best...
  6. Lets make Rainier more climber friendly.

    Mike, As I said earlier Skiers (and snowshoers) are in the same boat as climbers, I have been to the park on ski trips myself and had the same issue. As far as sledders, hikers, ect. I would invite them to join the discussion, but I don't expect that they care as much. How many sledders start at 6:00 am? I also know that if Rainier were to suspend road maintnence for the winter, winter ascents of Rainier would be few and far between due to the extended aproach, so I fully apreciate the value of the work that the park is currently doing. I am not sure that 24 hour access is even necessary, but, as I said before, maybe opening the gate reliably at 5:00 or 6:00 am. I think that would work for the vast majority of climbs. Then, in the winter climbers could go to Paradise and self register early on the morning, similar to hood. The bigger problem with registration comes in the summer, when registration must be done at the park during buisness hours, and when early starts are even more important. Not that it matters, but Sherman pass is at 5575ft, and still open, not shure if it stays open year round or not, and it is east so likely gets much less snow... I am not trying to pick a fight with the park service, or slander the rangers in any way, I think that all climbers with their head on straight apperciate you guys. What I do see is a common frustration among many climbers, including myself, and think it is worth discussing. Do you have any thoughts as to how we might eliminate this frustration?
  7. Lets make Rainier more climber friendly.

    First of all, I think that Rainier does a GREAT job of keeping the park. I have met a number of the rangers, and found all of them to be friendly and helpfull. A number of them have gone above and beyond on a number of occasions, and I do appreciate that. It is not like this is a bitch session on Rainier. Fact is, however that some of the activities that Rainier is exclusively well suited for, are made dificult by current operating procedures. I would like to open a dialog about changing some of those procedures. As far as liability with regards to someone launching their SUV off a cliff on icy roads, that is Darwin at work. I lived most of my life in Alaska, and a closed road was one that there was too much snow to get past, rarely was there a gate to stop you. If the US government spent less time trying to protect idiots from themselves, maybe some of these morons would learn some personal responsibility, and we wouldn't have to worry about the park getting sued. No, I think back country skiers (aparently the majority of winter park users) have the same issue as climbers. Maybe they to should pipe in. Many states(I'm sure that it happens in Washington) do road maintnance at night. maybe the park could shift the schedule so that they could open the gate consistantly at 5:00 am. I should think that would work.
  8. New year on success...

    If the weather continues to look questionable, we are thinking of going to Muir, camping out, and hoping for a window to shoot up Gib Ledges... Any one know about the condition of this route? Thanks
  9. New year on success...

    We are planning three and 1/2 days for the climb... Thoughts 1: thinking about descending the Ingram direct 2: Day 1 maybe to Pyramid creek cg Day 2 to 8200 camp Day 3 to summit, and stay there, or descend to ingram flat. Day 4 to Paradise and my wife with warm car... 3: I there a high camp on success that is higher than the 8200 high camp? any thoughs are apreciated thanks in advance
  10. Chair Peak

    Anybody know about the condition of Chair Peak?
  11. crevasse rescue practice

    There is a nice cornice that forms just a little below Panorama point and east of the main route. It has a nice runout at the bottom so any falls would not hurt to bad, and the top is plenty big and flat, good for setting anchors, and setting up Z rigs. Good Luck
  12. Ice on the shades

    About a week ago, I was coming down through the purley gates on Hood marching straight into 1 helluva head wind, with horizontal snow and ice making a pleasent little cozy home right on the face of my Julbos... Well, it was about then that I remember when I was going up, I saw a guy coming down with these little round goggles, each eye was a seperate goggle, and they were clear and clean. being that the wind was at my back then, I didn't notice how much of the snow/ice was coming down on the way up, so that may have had something to do with it, but I would have given my left pinkie nail clipping to be able to see droping down that steep section... Any thought or ideas on better glasses, or are goggles the way to go? what about "mini" goggles? Thanks
  13. Alt. climbs (snow/ice) in May when Rainier is out?

    I was thinking the same thing, looking possible at the north face of Baker or Shuksan, but looks like it might be crappy there too...
  14. Peter Cooley card/fund?

    I had a long talk with my wife last night, as I am planning that route this weekend. I can't imagine leaving her behind if it were me, let alone leaving three kids. any way, I am definately there with any support that I can lend to a fellow climbers family. I don't know why, but this one really hit home...
  15. Liberty Ridge Climber Injured

    Sounds like they got a pretty good set of rescuers... My heart is really with those guys, as I plan on being up there next weekend... Kudos to Scott, sounds like he is really the kind of climbing partner that a guy wants to have...
  16. Chair North Face

    anybody know about the ice on the north face of chair this early?
  17. Chair North Face

  18. FS: Koflachs, bivy, snowboard w/ bindings

    you still got the boots? I would like to check them out... email me at jakebuell@comcast.net or call at (253) 569-1153
  19. avalanche safety class???

    any suggestions???
  20. climbing tool????

    What is the best second tool for alpine routes and why?
  21. climbing tool????

    Considering a route such as Liberty Ridge, where you will likely run into some fairly steep ice and hard snow...
  22. Avalanch danger on Baker

    a group of us are planning a trip up Baker this weekend on the Cloeman glacier route. any thoughts about Avalanch danger due to the warm weather??? Thanks
  23. Kayak site

    There is a site that is similar to this for kayakers. Does anybody know what the address is? I have tried to find it again and can't seem to get to it. Has already been purged from my history... Thanks Jake
  24. Kayak site

    All this BS and crap about big block motor boats, white water kayaks and rubber rafts... I was asking in reference to a sea kayak, that is the real stuff...
  25. Kayak site

    i gave you the link?? whats up with that???? some of my best friends are stellar boaters, i have gone plenty of times......i think it is toooooo dangerous....... have fun!!! opps. missed that, sorry Thanks