11worth Rock

[scot'teryx]

So what did you climb this weekend after the release of Viktor's new book?

 

Went with some newbies on Saturday and we climbed at Mad Meadows (once we found it...trail?). Some fun stuff up there, especially "Birthday Boy", a great 5.7 that had a lot to offer.

The upper crag was alot of fun as well. Some good 5.7's and 5.8's. Went to "Clem's Holler" after that and climbed a fun 2 pitch 5.8 sport that was a lot of fun. Started the 3 rd pitch that went at 10a, but after the 3rd bolt, it went to small gear that I did not have on me so I had to bail.

 

Sunday we went up to "Planet of the Eights", and that area is worthless IMO. We did 2 routes, and they were not 1 star climbs. After that "Mystic Nacho" had to bail and I am very sorry for him as we did "Poison Ivy Crack" and that route rules the earth! It totally reminded me of a mini easy version of that route in Inertia 2 "Book of Hate" 12d or something.

 

Hand jam dihedral, with stemming and some kick ass opposition moves. I loved that route!

 

We then headed out to Clems Holler again, as I wanted to finish that 10a route on the 3rd pitch and get my bail biner. Unfortunately there were other groups there, some we did "Nettlesome", which was a 2 pitch 5.9/5.8. The 5.9 pitch was pretty kick ass, with some awkward moves at the sdtart, and then some real fun ones getting over a bulge to the belay. The last 5.8 pitch of slab was dirty, but fun nonetheless.

 

Didn't get to place a single cam this weekend....kind of bummed about that.

 

 

 

 

[Paul_detrick]

I don't have the new book but we climbed up at sam hill and under hill, way kool. We warm up on sam n cams, than did groping for oprahs navel, great route. than can blue men sing the whites? ok. next went to under hill and did jaywalking for jesus, reminds me of outerspace only easyer, and finished on don't forget arete, a must do if your up there. Only saw two people, so it was a great day.

Edited May 27, 2003 by Paul_detrick

[Retrosaurus]

Sunday afternoon, I climbed about 20 pitches on Castle Rock. Didn't need no guidebook.

[Distel32]

Lots of squamish boulders

[scot'teryx]

Paul_detrick said:

I don't have the new book but we climbed up at sam hill and under hill, way kool. We warm up on sam n cams, than did groping for oprahs navel, great route. than can blue men sing the whites? ok. next went to under hill and did jaywalking for jesus, reminds me of outerspace only easyer, and finished on don't forget arete, a must do if your up there. Only saw two people, so it was a great day.

 

Sam Hill and the Underhill is way kool that is for sure.

I have yet to do that one long pitch that is up the hill and to the left of Sam Hill that goes at 10b or something, but is more than 130' I think. Gear and bolts.

 

Trundle Dome is the shit too, since your up there it is alot of fun. April Mayhem can be great for some, but a real pain for others with big hands.

 

I was at Index today and got my ass kicked and then spit out on Libra Crack.

That's one hard 10a crack!

 

[ctuller]

Sweet. I didn't know the book was out.

We Climbed Givlers crack, and that 3 pitch 5.8ish route on lower Castle on Monday.

Perfect weather, low crowds, nice rock.

 

Where can I find Viktor's book?

[Winter]

Where the hell was everyone on Sunday? We climbed Outerpsace, and there was only one other party on the entire wall (climbing Orbit). And the goats didn't eat our shit. What a great route.

[Eerie]

New book? I went to crack climbing school at 8-Mile Rock. Led Twin Cracks, TR'd Classic and Deception cracks. Great couple of days.

 

Is the exit for cleaning anchors from Twin Cracks really through the slot and up the gulley?

[catbirdseat]

Winter said:

Where the hell was everyone on Sunday? We climbed Outerpsace, and there was only one other party on the entire wall (climbing Orbit). And the goats didn't eat our shit. What a great route.

I couldn't talk Yos into taking me up Outer Space. He'd done it four times before and it was old hat to him. Too bad.

 

We did Canary on Sat. AM, then did all the 5.8's and 5.9's on the third tier of Bathtub Dome. Some have a feel similar to Planet of the Eights, whereas one or two have some vertical cracks.

 

On Sunday, we did Planet of the Eights, then Poison Ivy Crack. I only noticed the poison ivy after I set my rock shoes on some of it. I must not be allergic anymore, because I haven't broken out. Yos got a cam stuck up near the crux and between us we spent 45 minutes trying to free it. We finally abandoned it and left it to the amusement of others.

 

In the afternoon, we went over to Purina Crag and did Ordinary Crack, 5.8, which I led, and a 5.10a three star route, which Yos led. It was a nice one and worthy of its rating.

[erik]

too bad cbs,

 

i have done both orbit and os a half dozen or more times each. they are two classic routes, though orbit is like 59 millions times better.

 

that cliff holds lenty of classic routes tho.....

[catbirdseat]

Ah, well, perhaps another time. Yos told me all the pitches we did were harder than OS or Orbit. If so, no worries.

[Mr._Natural]

were you the guy that got the tick? that was myself and gurfriend AA that did poison ivy after you guys.

[mattp]

erik said:

though orbit is like 59 millions times better.

 

You heretic!!! (I do like it a little better, though.)

[lunger]

catbirdseat said:

On Sunday, we did Planet of the Eights, then Poison Ivy Crack. I only noticed the poison ivy after I set my rock shoes on some of it. I must not be allergic anymore, because I haven't broken out. Yos got a cam stuck up near the crux and between us we spent 45 minutes trying to free it. We finally abandoned it and left it to the amusement of others.

 

In the afternoon, we went over to Purina Crag and did Ordinary Crack, 5.8, which I led, and a 5.10a three star route, which Yos led. It was a nice one and worthy of its rating.

CBS: I mighta met you at Poison Ivy crack; was that you that recommended Existential Exit (which I presume is the 10a 3-star route mentioned)? At any rate, that route is a stellar, varied and steep 10a lead. very nice, so thanks to whoever mentioned it. quid pro quo: check out Condo corner, right side of Careno sometime. Tumwater/Icicle canyons rocked this weekend, surprisingly not too crowded.

[iceclimer]

Where can we get this new book and how much does it cost? Some of us haven't lived/climbed here all of our lives and need a little help catching up.

 

Thanks!!!!

[Dustin_B]

ctuller said:

Where can I find Viktor's book?

 

Der Sportsman in Leavenworth has it. Haven't seen it over here yet.

 

I agree with Scott'veil about no trail to Mad Meadows. We had to bush whack to it on Sunday. Some fun stuff up in that area.

 

Lworth was definitely less crowded with climbers than I would expect.

[Dustin_B]

iceclimer said:

Where can we get this new book and how much does it cost? Some of us haven't lived/climbed here all of our lives and need a little help catching up.

 

Thanks!!!!

 

I have lived here less then 2 years and have been climbing less than that, so pick a new excuse. (anyway refer to my post above)

[ctuller]

I called Der Sortsman and they tell me it's not out yet.

There is still no excuse for not climbing there , grab a copy of Smoots book for the time being.

[catbirdseat]

lunger said:CBS: I mighta met you at Poison Ivy crack; was that you that recommended Existential Exit (which I presume is the 10a 3-star route mentioned)? At any rate, that route is a stellar, varied and steep 10a lead. very nice, so thanks to whoever mentioned it. quid pro quo: check out Condo corner, right side of Careno sometime. Tumwater/Icicle canyons rocked this weekend, surprisingly not too crowded.

That might have been us. One other thing that happened at Poison Ivy Crack. A tick decided to bore his way into my belayer's shoulder while I was top roping the route. In seconds he had produced a bore hole and a huge welt. Nasty little bastard. I'm glad I didn't fall.

[erik]

2 THINGS

 

THERE IS A TRAIL TO MAD MEADOWS.

 

AND DONT EVER MENTIONS SMOOTS PEICE OF SHIT HERE AGAIN!!

 

THANKS!

 

 

[Szyjakowski]

ctuller said:

I called Der Sortsman and they tell me it's not out yet.

There is still no excuse for not climbing there , grab a copy of Smoots book for the time being.

that seems weird....

go to the leavenworth sport shop next to the POST OFFICE...they got em

[Dustin_B]

ctuller said:

I called Der Sortsman and they tell me it's not out yet.

There is still no excuse for not climbing there , grab a copy of Smoots book for the time being.

 

I was at Der Sportsman Sunday morning, saw 6 or 8 copies, bought one (and used it on Sunday). They have it, tell them to check again. It is $26 bucks and has photos of all the walls not sketches like the 1st Ed.

 

Please don't buy Smoot's book, that thing is garbage.

[Dustin_B]

erik said:

 

THERE IS A TRAIL TO MAD MEADOWS.

 

 

Erik, where is it? We parked by the bulletin board (per the guidebook), walked up a couple hundred yards (per the guidebook), then at a low point in the cliff band bush whacked up to a trail. On the way down we follow the trail until it disappears?? and then we retrace our bushwack?? We were very confused and cussing the guidebook. Where do you park and where does the trail start?

 

Saw one tick crawling on me but we didn't have any 'dig in'.

 

[Szyjakowski]

trail to mad meadows starts directly across from Dog Dome down the road (toward Ltown) from Hammerhead rock...

 

PPuget- when did you climb NeverNeverCrack..

buddy and I were there yesterday and it looked as if it hadn't seen traffic for years...lichen, dirt, no chalk and cobwebs....

[Eerie]

I also gave a shot at locating Mad Meadows and after ascending the embankment followed a trail east for about 10 minutes. Figured I would have reached MM by then so turned around. Another 20 minutes later after backtracking and hiking uphill a bit more I was at the base of Clamshell Cave. Any ideas on whether I was on the correct trail?