climbanut Posted May 12, 2003 Posted May 12, 2003 I'm going to be taking two others up Leothold Couloir on Saturday after spending Friday night at Ilum saddle. Has anyone heard what the couloir conditions are like lately? This time of year I'm wondering if a warming pattern is likely increasing us getting pelted. We'll probably head up at about 4 am. What is the opinion out there for roping up vs not roping up in the L. Coulouir? Quote
iain Posted May 12, 2003 Posted May 12, 2003 There was avalanche activity on the Reid Headwall this weekend. Warm weather definitely increases the rime debris funneling down the couloir, particularly as the sun hits the rime cliffs on Yocum R. and upper Reid. Whether to rope up or not would be how comfortable is your team with 45 snow/ice. Quote
climbanut Posted May 14, 2003 Author Posted May 14, 2003 Thanks for the input. Hopefully conditions will allow a trip up the couloir. If not we may look at Castle Crags or even go back to Hogsback. Quote
ryland_moore Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 At least go down to the Reid and traverse over to the base and dig a test pit and check conditions. If you leave early enough from the Saddle and conditions don't pan out on Leuthold's then you will still have time for another easier route like S. Side. Have a blast! Quote
ivan Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 climbed the s. side this past night....the track is pretty fast at the moment, 4 hours to summit...i'd expect, barring major snow over the next few days, the snow should be nice and compacted....crap raining down on you will always be a problem, especially if it's windy as all hell...got pelted several times tonight above the 'schrund (not so pleasant at the summit, around 15 degrees w/ 40 mph winds)...wear a helmet and be a man! Quote
Billy Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 (edited) The snow right now is pretty horrible on some parts of the mountain except the hogsback route (climber compacted) There is breakable crust on top of sugar. Leutholds might need some time yet. Edited May 14, 2003 by Billy Quote
climbanut Posted May 14, 2003 Author Posted May 14, 2003 Thanks all for your advice. it's going to be an interesting weekend on the mt with the recent warm weather and who knows what kind of conditions in the next two days. We will still get to the base of L. Couloir and take a look before making the decision. Having never gone up that route has just made me cautious about the attempt. We still can do the other routes mentioned if we will have to wade through soft stuff while being pumled with ice and rock. Thanks, ivan for the recent beta on your last night's climb. Same to you Billy and Rymand... good info. What's the general thought on packing snowshoes for getting over to Illum rock and across the Reid . I usually leave them behind. Quote
Winter Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 Don't get suckered onto the Reid Headwall too early and don't climb up Yocum. Hit the hourglass. Quote
ivan Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 climbanut (why can't i get "bustanut" oughta my head?)...don't forget to get drunk at the r&r w/ everyone before ye leave...i'm now returning home to make up for all the sleep i lost last night, to get my drinking legs under me, so ta speak Quote
climbanut Posted May 15, 2003 Author Posted May 15, 2003 Since the weather is probably going to be sketcky tomorrow and Saturday, should I reconsider going up the couloir? Is it a good condition only route? Thanks to all. You're awesome. Quote
sketchfest Posted May 15, 2003 Posted May 15, 2003 If there is new snow I would stay away. The hourglass above the couloir will just dump all the freshiez down on you and your partners and deposit all of you down on the Reid. Quote
Ursa_Eagle Posted May 15, 2003 Posted May 15, 2003 yeah, enough stuff comes down on it's own when the conditions are good that I wouldn't want to go near it in bad conditions. The new snow is definately not making for good conditions this weekend. Quote
Timcb Posted May 15, 2003 Posted May 15, 2003 Definitely don't climb too early. I camped at the saddle last sat night to climb leothold, but what we thought was the route was Way off, and we ended up climbing the first gully up to the reid headwall (first variation of castle crags). We just stayed right under headwall (where the avalanche was sunday morning) and when we got to that first rock outcrop we just started climbing. The gully was actually not bad- true the snow was kind of sketch- with about 6" to a foot of loose granular over softish styrofoam, but higher up, when the going got steep (to 50+ deg), we were able to sink some pickets. Anyway, you really have to drop and traverse the reid. Get right under Yocum. From what I now understand, that should do it. good luck Quote
sketchfest Posted May 15, 2003 Posted May 15, 2003 Just don't head to far over and overshoot (it easy to do) cause you'll end up in a series of deadends directly below the 2nd gendarme of the yocum and other than pulling some Twight like shit, you'll have to down climb some real crap. Quote
iain Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 be sure you don't accidently climb the north face or cooper spur as well, or wind up on disappointment cleaver accidently Quote
texplorer Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .sketchy. . . . . . . . . . . . Quote
MtnHigh Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 Ascend steep slopes, look for the belay bush next to the chockstone, turn right then head for the obvious descent gulley. This will put you at the base of a major coulior. Don't climb from here. Instead call 911 and Iain will come rescue your ass. Quote
sobo Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 climbanut said: What's the general thought on packing snowshoes for getting over to Illum rock and across the Reid . I usually leave them behind. Do your usual thing. Quote
climbanut Posted May 18, 2003 Author Posted May 18, 2003 Actually, with all the fresh snow, I wish I had brought snow shoes. We bagged the idea of summiting after getting just above the lifts Friday afternoon, after climbing through the snowstorm, wind, drifts, no visibility, etc. Another time, my cyber friends... Quote
texplorer Posted May 19, 2003 Posted May 19, 2003 texplorer said: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .sketchy. . . . . . . . . . . . Do you hear a faint "See I told you so." Quote
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