Leothold Couloir

[climbanut]

I'm going to be taking two others up Leothold Couloir on Saturday after spending Friday night at Ilum saddle. Has anyone heard what the couloir conditions are like lately? This time of year I'm wondering if a warming pattern is likely increasing us getting pelted. We'll probably head up at about 4 am.

 

What is the opinion out there for roping up vs not roping up in the L. Coulouir?

[iain]

There was avalanche activity on the Reid Headwall this weekend. Warm weather definitely increases the rime debris funneling down the couloir, particularly as the sun hits the rime cliffs on Yocum R. and upper Reid. Whether to rope up or not would be how comfortable is your team with 45 snow/ice.

[climbanut]

Thanks for the input. Hopefully conditions will allow a trip up the couloir. If not we may look at Castle Crags or even go back to Hogsback.

[ryland_moore]

At least go down to the Reid and traverse over to the base and dig a test pit and check conditions. If you leave early enough from the Saddle and conditions don't pan out on Leuthold's then you will still have time for another easier route like S. Side. Have a blast!

[ivan]

climbed the s. side this past night....the track is pretty fast at the moment, 4 hours to summit...i'd expect, barring major snow over the next few days, the snow should be nice and compacted....crap raining down on you will always be a problem, especially if it's windy as all hell...got pelted several times tonight above the 'schrund (not so pleasant at the summit, around 15 degrees w/ 40 mph winds)...wear a helmet and be a man!

[Billy]

 

The snow right now is pretty horrible on some parts of the mountain except the hogsback route (climber compacted) There is breakable crust on top of sugar. Leutholds might need some time yet.

 

 

Edited May 14, 2003 by Billy

[climbanut]

Thanks all for your advice. it's going to be an interesting weekend on the mt with the recent warm weather and who knows what kind of conditions in the next two days. We will still get to the base of L. Couloir and take a look before making the decision. Having never gone up that route has just made me cautious about the attempt. We still can do the other routes mentioned if we will have to wade through soft stuff while being pumled with ice and rock. Thanks, ivan for the recent beta on your last night's climb. Same to you Billy and Rymand... good info.

 

What's the general thought on packing snowshoes for getting over to Illum rock and across the Reid . I usually leave them behind.

[Winter]

Don't get suckered onto the Reid Headwall too early and don't climb up Yocum. Hit the hourglass.

[ivan]

climbanut (why can't i get "bustanut" oughta my head?)...don't forget to get drunk at the r&r w/ everyone before ye leave...i'm now returning home to make up for all the sleep i lost last night, to get my drinking legs under me, so ta speak

[climbanut]

Since the weather is probably going to be sketcky tomorrow and Saturday, should I reconsider going up the couloir? Is it a good condition only route? Thanks to all. You're awesome.

[sketchfest]

If there is new snow I would stay away. The hourglass above the couloir will just dump all the freshiez down on you and your partners and deposit all of you down on the Reid.

[Ursa_Eagle]

yeah, enough stuff comes down on it's own when the conditions are good that I wouldn't want to go near it in bad conditions. The new snow is definately not making for good conditions this weekend.

[Timcb]

Definitely don't climb too early. I camped at the saddle last sat night to climb leothold, but what we thought was the route was Way off, and we ended up climbing the first gully up to the reid headwall (first variation of castle crags). We just stayed right under headwall (where the avalanche was sunday morning) and when we got to that first rock outcrop we just started climbing.

 

The gully was actually not bad- true the snow was kind of sketch- with about 6" to a foot of loose granular over softish styrofoam, but higher up, when the going got steep (to 50+ deg), we were able to sink some pickets.

 

Anyway, you really have to drop and traverse the reid. Get right under Yocum. From what I now understand, that should do it. good luck

[sketchfest]

Just don't head to far over and overshoot (it easy to do) cause you'll end up in a series of deadends directly below the 2nd gendarme of the yocum and other than pulling some Twight like shit, you'll have to down climb some real crap.

[iain]

be sure you don't accidently climb the north face or cooper spur as well, or wind up on disappointment cleaver accidently

[iain]

[texplorer]

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .sketchy. . . . . . . . . . . .

[MtnHigh]

Ascend steep slopes, look for the belay bush next to the chockstone, turn right then head for the obvious descent gulley. This will put you at the base of a major coulior.

Don't climb from here. Instead call 911 and Iain will come rescue your ass.

[sobo]

climbanut said:

What's the general thought on packing snowshoes for getting over to Illum rock and across the Reid . I usually leave them behind.

 

Do your usual thing.

[climbanut]

Actually, with all the fresh snow, I wish I had brought snow shoes. We bagged the idea of summiting after getting just above the lifts Friday afternoon, after climbing through the snowstorm, wind, drifts, no visibility, etc. Another time, my cyber friends...

[texplorer]

texplorer said:

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .sketchy. . . . . . . . . . . .

Do you hear a faint "See I told you so."