Who sent what?

[Distel32]

Yeah my tutu looks great. I don't see why you are dodging out now and talking about my knees, but whatever. Let's go bouldering sometime then, and then alpine climbing or trad or whatever you would like to do.

 

 

[AlpineK]

All I did was repeat my initial post. Maybe you better reread it.

[Distel32]

The athletic talent? no big deal, let's just go climbing and enjoy what we do.

[AlpineK]

Spend the next 10 years looking for a good orthopedic surgeon. Your gonna need it sucker.

[Distel32]

Spend the next ten years becoming a good climber, then talk trash. Sucker.

[nolanr]

trask said:

the only people i want to see in roller

skates, are the Hooter Honeys

with their tight little bums and bodacious tatas

and their perky little naughty attitudes

 

I second that.

[nolanr]

Went up Dragontail from Colchuck Col on Saturday. Not too much traffic up there, bunch of people heading up to camp at the lake Sat. afternoon for Sunday attempts. Any of you folks?

 

"Sent" my first 9 holes of golf on Sunday...boy do I suck.

Edited May 13, 2003 by nolanr

[Fence_Sitter]

Distel32 said:

Spend the next ten years becoming a good climber, then talk trash. Sucker.

 

if being a good climber is being able to pull 3 v10 moves...then we have differnt views of 'good' climber...i see a good climber as someone who can do a 40 hour push of 5.11 trad, WI 5, AI4, A3, M5 all in one push (or some shit like that)... most people on this site climb like at leat 4 or 5 different types of climbing...well...so they are jsutified in making fun of omeone who makes a sport out of something taht comprises 1/100th of what they call climbing....

[Fence_Sitter]

but dood no hard feelins...i will boulder with ya sometime if you wanna show me the ropes...i used to boulder inside and it was really fun... lemme know....peace

[Distel32]

no I definetly agree with you fence. I try to do some alpine, a little trad, sport and boulder. I think I good climber should be able to do all sorts, but you also can't deny people who only boulder v7 and climb 5.12 sport are good climbers you know?

 

I'd love to go bouldering with ya sometime.

[slothrop]

Distel32 said:

Spend the next ten years becoming a good climber, then talk trash. Sucker.

 

I guess you missed AlpineK's slides of the Cassin Ridge.

[Fence_Sitter]

Distel32 said:

no I definetly agree with you fence. I try to do some alpine, a little trad, sport and boulder. I think I good climber should be able to do all sorts, but you also can't deny people who only boulder v7 and climb 5.12 sport are good climbers you know?

 

I'd love to go bouldering with ya sometime.

for my definition i think they are... for me, a good climber is well rounded...and for me, sprot/bouldering is a microcosm of climbing as a big picture. I think they climb well (technically) but they are not good climbers. A good climber has to be able to do everything form climb 5.12-13 to asses weather conditions and drink their weight in beer.... but i really do admire strong sport climbers/ boulderers...just dont think they are real climbers in that sense...

[Fence_Sitter]

slothrop said:

Distel32 said:

Spend the next ten years becoming a good climber, then talk trash. Sucker.

 

I guess you missed AlpineK's slides of the Cassin Ridge.

yah those were pretty sweet... but can he pull V7? that is the only question i want answered

[JayB]

Reading through some of these posts made me think of a few lines that crazypolishbob wrote not too long ago:

 

"Alpine climbing starts with good sport climbing background. Hey champ, if you can't hang on to a 5.10 or a 5.11 clip up at the crag, how can you hang-on on vertical mixed pitch? How fast can you send 5.11 or 12, have you ever done 5.13, how about 14? Sport climbing builds strength, strength gives confidence, confidence gives speed and speed IS safety. I don't say you'll be able to start cranking hard alpine routes right away, but it is the necessary step every climber has to take."

 

I can't recall anyone taking issue with what he said on that particular thread. Of course that guy never does any hard alpine routes so what does he know?

 

Say what you want about bouldering, but there's no denying that fact that it builds strength and technique, both of which come in handy on most rock routes. Even sit starts, as goofy and contrived as they seem, can pay off by adding a few new moves to your arsenal that'll come in handy sooner or later on roped routes. I'd be willing to bet that anyone that can crank out v5's will be able to shut down 80% of the folks that post here on trad routes if they ever decide to focus on cracks. I've seen it happen.

 

Here's to sit starts

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Distel32]

I remeber reading that post by CPB, good find Jay.

Good post!

 

JayB s. Said exactly what I couldn't come up with!

Up for UW with ya anytime.

[Fence_Sitter]

I'd be willing to bet that anyone that can crank out v5's will be able to shut down 80% of the folks that post here on trad routes if they ever decide to focus on cracks.

 

not true...i used to be able to crank v5...its a totally different ball game...

[Fence_Sitter]

but i agree that it is great training...no-one here will disagree... i am down with it...i wanna get better at it as i see the benefeits...let me know dude if you wanna go...i am free now that i lost my f-in job...

[Distel32]

v5 indoor or outdoor?

Edited May 13, 2003 by Distel32

[Fence_Sitter]

indoor...i'm too skiny to be that good outdoor...

[Dru]

the essence of alpinism is not hard moves but 1) dealing with choss and 2) route finding. If your route finding is good it will avoid hard moves on choss.

[Distel32]

Yeah v5 outdoor is about the same as 6 indoor. Yeah I'm a skinny little guy too, 5'10" 148, but its a good thing!

[Fence_Sitter]

yeah this summer i am doing less glacier crap and trying to get strong and push the numbers...i have climbed like 4 out of 5 days i have been back here...so i am worked...but i am thinking about going out tomorrow...lemme knwo if you ever need a spot or wanna crank on some cracks...

[plexus]

There's a difference between a good climber and a good well-rounded climber. After reading Jay's reintroduction of CPB's post, there is some logic to it. But in the mountains, common sense, dealing with choss and route finding are just as handy.

 

Each their own. When I spend more time in the mountains, my peak climbing ability goes down. When I spend more time cragging, my endurance goes down. And I don't have the balls to push myself to the high end of my climbing ability (grade-wise) in the mountains because of risk assessment. Maybe that is what will keep me from ever becoming a good climber.

 

But you know what, I can live that.

[JayB]

Clarification:

 

In my mind, someone who can crank V5 = someone who has much greater finger strength, footwork, and body position than the average climber. By far. This is very likely someone who will be able to put these skills to use when climbing cracks if they choose to do so, and if they choose to do so they will most likely pick up the physical part of crack climbing fairly quickly. If they stick with it they will get the hang of placing gear, and will most likely climb harder crack routes than folks who cannot handle the average V3 boulder problem.

 

Climbing alpine routes is a separate issue and obviously involves much more than just finger strength and technical climbing skills, but having said that I can't see how strength and skill will ever be a detriment to anyone, on any route, anywhere, at any time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[RuMR]

JayB said:

Clarification:

 

In my mind, someone who can crank V5 = someone who has much greater finger strength, footwork, and body position than the average climber. By far. This is very likely someone who will be able to put these skills to use when climbing cracks if they choose to do so, and if they choose to do so they will most likely pick up the physical part of crack climbing fairly quickly. If they stick with it they will get the hang of placing gear, and will most likely climb harder crack routes than folks who cannot handle the average V3 boulder problem.

 

Climbing alpine routes is a separate issue and obviously involves much more than just finger strength and technical climbing skills, but having said that I can't see how strength and skill will ever be a detriment to anyone, on any route, anywhere, at any time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I think JayB is on the money here.

 

Funny thing is: V5 is basically about 11+/12 and isn't sick (I think decent bouldering really kicks in at V8 or higher) and is quite common. So, I guess the questions become...are you good technically and are you good at judgement and the more "cerebral" aspects of climbing to be considered a "good" climber?

 

Having never climbed w/ AlpineK, GregW, etc., i'm still going to venture a guess that they are giving Distel a hardtime about the other aspects of climbing than the strictly technical side of it. Fair enough...but in his defense, these are things that only come from experience...and experience takes time and initiative to gather it. I don't think he's lacking in the "initiative" side, ie. he, on several occasions, asked to be taken outside to go trad climbing w/ FenceSitter and AlpineK...

 

But I'll venture another guess: He will become "bored" w/ only the "plastic"/bolt side of things and will start venturing into other aspects of climbing and then he'll start picking up on the mental side of climbing. He is what, 19 and has been climbing for a couple of years? Talk to him when he is 25 - 28 years old and I think you folks will be eating a bit of crow. I can't count the number of times i've seen a really enthusiastic young climber just start sending HARD (and I don't mean 5.10's and 5.11's) trad routes after a start in sport climbing.