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Posted
Yes I was there.

Wanted to play with the big boys, had surfer other big waves. Way to big for me I punked out and sat on my board just outside the point. I new Mark Foo from home, truly great person and natural surfer.

I still go back to Mavericks everytime I visit my folks.

 

Man, there's big wave surfing, and then there's surfing Mavericks. Damn shame about Mark, and shame you had to be there for it. I've watched the winter surf on Sunset and Pipeline (way too big for me to get in), and though I've never seen Mavs in person, it looks like it puts the north shore to shame, which is saying something...

Posted

No shit! snaf.gifare frigging dangerous. I was five pitches up the Diheral Wall, when a snaf.gifsix pitches up decided to bail from an attempted free solo. The snaf.gif turned around, started down, saw me, and pitched off to their assumed death.

 

Very very sad.

Posted

Yesterday while I was aiding city park, I put a stopper into a constriction below a little pod and a tiny frog jumped out of the pod spraying me with piss as he did so. He soared gracefully until hitting a boulder at the base of the climb with a very wet-sounding SPLAT!

 

There was a bat in a small pod higher up on City Park as well. I almost stuck a cam in his face. blush.gif

 

Flying snaf.gif -infested aid cracks rockband.gif

Posted

Scariest Whipper: Climbing at nameless roadside crag in Idaho -- Came unclipped (due to me adjusting my daisy chain carelessly) at hanging belay and CASTED OFF, freefalling about 6 or 8 feet until stopping, almost miraculously, on a body-sized ledge -- he only horizontal feature between me and a 100 foot fall to the ground. ooo.gifcantfocus.gifshocked.gif

Posted

The biggest whipper I can recall was down in Las Vegas. Ya, she really knew her craft. The story goes like this,.......oh, you mean that kind of whipper, LOL! To make a long story short, I woke up the next morning with no eyebrows and a ham snadwich..................

Posted
800 ft up Royal arches variation. Fell 60 ft. Cratered on ledge. Unhurt. Why use ropes?

 

Were you right above 2 fixed pins under a little bulge.. I took a big whipper there when my foot got stuck in the crack.

Nope. Off to the right a ways. Clean widening offwidth up to a fixed 10 or 11 hex.

Posted

I got you all beat: I fell 8 feet once....

 

I don't like falling.

 

Only thing like this I have dealt with was on a climb in Montana on Nez Perce Spire, a moderately chossy 9pitch 5.10. At the last pitch my friend led up 30 feet on easy 5th class and stepped on a small TV-size block. He and the block tumbled down a chimney at me and swung out of the way. He ended up relatively clean, a little ways below me (no placements were available). The block came by me and tore the backpack off the anchor. Glad I tied in with enough slack to swing around! We had to walk 3 miles of talus/trail in our rock shoes, dammit...

Posted

What route were you doing? SW Butt? When I was doing 'A Modern Home Environment' I kept looking over there at a beautiful hands to offwidth crack that just kept going. Must have been 4 pitches. At the top was a refrigerator sized block that looked like a stiff breeze would knock over. That crack is east of the standard route. Probably never been done.....

Posted
The biggest whipper I can recall was down in Las Vegas. Ya, she really knew her craft. The story goes like this,.......oh, you mean that kind of whipper, LOL! To make a long story short, I woke up the next morning with no eyebrows and a ham snadwich..................

 

You must meet Icegirl.

Posted

Decked about 30ft one time I was unhurt although my spotter suffered a concussion from breaking my fall. I rember thinking to myself "this is really going to hurt" I whippered about 50 ft in the needles in SD one time lost most of my skin on my knees hands and calves( not sure how that happened). The long drive home was intresting. Try stearing w/ only you fingertips. The rock there is rough and sharp it was like being run across a chease grator.

Posted

Yep Bug...My story mentioned above was on the SW buttress of Nez Perce spire. I love the route. I went back to do it again. At the scale of the handhold/foothold, the rock is very solid, but if you look around at what cracks and flakes you are climbing on, you realize the buttress has some major structural problems.

 

A friend of mine has another scary tale from Nez Perce. She was on Marvin's Wall, a few hundred feet north (up side canyon) of the SW buttress. She climbed a 30foot wide, 30foot high flake that was about 1 or 2 feet thick. Her friend followed it. When they were at the belay above it, it fell off and tore out a ponderosa!!!! Yikes.

Posted

The SW Butt of Flathead has several variations too. On our first attempt on MHE, we got baked and had to retreat. We had saved one gallon of water at the base of a tree about 100 feet down from the route. At about 5 pitches up Bruce dislodged a fist sized rock that bounced left, right, left, right, right, right Blewy. The water was gone. I almost got in on the 1st ascent of Marvin's wall too. But there were already three and it sounded like a waiting game.

Posted

I almost died on Flathead, on the rap after doing the SW Butt. I'd rapped to a ledge and was looking for the next anchor when some dinner-plate sized rocks peeled off the ledge where the rap anchor was. Barely missed me but chopped our ropes in half. Took like 20 raps to get down after that.

South Face of Flathead, My Mom's Muscle Shirt, is still the best Grave IV around though.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Finally have one to add... though it's only a measly 15 footer on about 2/3 of the way up Barbecue the Pope over the weekend pumped out and pitched off. First real lead fall and it was a bit of an enlightening experience. Nice soft catch (thanks Dan!) and nothing hurt beyond my ego!

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