Necronomicon Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 Heading to Red Rocks. This will be my first trip. Any suggestions for routes, preferably of the LONG variety. Also, who wrote the best guidebook, and where are the best online resources for topos, if you know. Thanks a bunch!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 the uriotse guide book is the best. swains book sux!! if you need i have topos for the routes i told you about!! epi is one of the top 5 routes i have ever done!!! wallstain agreed and he is like all traveled and shit!!! give layton a pat on the ass for trask!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeclimb9 Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 Enjoy the crowds. It'll be a zoo with so many gumby Spring Break kids on the loose. I'll recommend routes, but they could very well have long lines of groups waiting to climb. Crabby Appleton Dark Shadows Frogland Dream of Wild Turkeys Olive Oil Solar Slab Yellow Brick Road Crimson Chrysalis Prince of Darkness Edge of the Sun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 I've heard good things of Olive oil and Turkeys. I've done Epi and it as good as Ear-Ache says it is! You can simul everything except for the two chimney pitches and be back in time for afternoon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 special me and mike got your time smoked!!! dont be braggin with your 3 day effort...you guys fixed lines to the top of the tower right?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason_h Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 Here are a few more routes that probably won't have as many crowds- The Delicate Sound of Thunder Our Father Cloud Tower Rock Warrior Triassic Sands(could be popular) Sour Mash Refried Brains The Great Red Book Have Fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 Ginger Cracks (much less crowded than CChrysalis) Eagle Dance (3 hr walk so no crowds) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 Yaak Crack should be traffic- and crowd-free most any time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 Ixtlan has a good OW if you like em. Get a sport climber to lead the bolted face that you gotta climb to get to it. You can warm up on the Fox in Calico Basin. That one is muy caliente. I nearly exploded following it. Good place to use #6 Friend at the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted March 28, 2003 Share Posted March 28, 2003 Dude, most of those routes these guys mentioned are pretty good. Get Swain's book if your gonna buy one. It's necessary. The Uriosite book is a good supplement cuz of the photos, although they gave Black Orpheus 17 pitches and we did it w/some simul and some solo in 3, some other weirdness too. Here's the plan: No warm up bullshit. Resolution Arete 20 pitches, one of the longest Black Orpheus linked w/Chicken Lips 20 pitches Sour Mash -a few pitches (5-7?) Dream of Wild Turkeys -a few pitches (same) Fiddler on the Roof -till we puke or fall. Other possibilites: Crabby Appleton, Prince of Darkness, Original Route. The new uriosite guide is pretty neat, but also pretty stupid. Go do a new route if you're already done all the classics which is easily doable in a few seasons here. The one pitch stuff mentioned earlier is all good route, but none are next to each other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mneagle Posted March 28, 2003 Share Posted March 28, 2003 Just climbed there 3 days ago. It's the middle of spring break and it didn't seem that crowded. We headed up Dark Shadows for the first trad route of the year. We ended up doing the 5.8 to 5.10 right side variation then rapping back down and climbing the 5.7 route proper. We thought about going to the top of the tower but after the first pitch above the roof we realized that we wouldn't have enough time. We got a Red Rock Select guidebook from the local climbing shop for $10.50 Enjoy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted March 28, 2003 Share Posted March 28, 2003 michael_layton said: Other possibilites: Crabby Appleton, Prince of Darkness, Original Route. Crabby Appleton, Edge of Sun and Community Pillar are all awesome routes on the south side of Pine Creek Canyon. Community Pillar is cult classic! Entire thing is chimney, tunnel and Ohh-dubya! I had to take my harness off and hang it from my foot to get past the first chockstone. Go do it. Crabby and Edge of Sun make for good full day with no one around. Last pitches of both are ****. I'm jealous I want to be in Red Rocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Necronomicon Posted March 28, 2003 Author Share Posted March 28, 2003 dberdinka said: michael_layton said: quote] Entire thing is chimney, tunnel and Ohh-dubya! I had to take my harness off and hang it from my foot to get past the first chockstone. Go do it Sounds well protected, with your harness around your foot and all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted March 28, 2003 Share Posted March 28, 2003 -Levitation 29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted March 28, 2003 Share Posted March 28, 2003 erik said: special me and mike got your time smoked!!! dont be braggin with your 3 day effort...you guys fixed lines to the top of the tower right?? Basecamp was established approximately 150 yards from parking lot Day 2 saw us navigate the extremely primitive trail halfway to the base of climb Day 3 we managed two pitches before backing off due to a cloud on the horizon which my partner thought might bring a partial blocking of the sun Day 4 was a rest day Day 5 we aided the chimney pitches Day 6 we established our high camp and fixed lines for next season's attempt on this intimidating and mammoth route Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Necronomicon Posted April 14, 2003 Author Share Posted April 14, 2003 Back to the land of gainful employment after a week in the City of Sin. Climbed: Olive Oil Dream of Wild Turkey Resolution Arete Wholesome Fullback Wanted to do Tunnel Vision too, but a super-slow party in front of us would have made for a too long day after our less than alpine start. Thanks to all for your route suggestions!! -J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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