sexual_chocolate Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 Hey, new 15a by some euro kid. Read about it at www.8anu.com. Side-note: No one has repeated Rouhling's 15b, so all this gab about 15a should stop until somebody does so. Oh, and so like this kid's got a coach and everything. Climbing's way bigger in europe, huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB1&Number=149158&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1 Dru...commence smirking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 Scooped again bro! http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB1&Number=149158&page=1&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 JoshK said: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB1&Number=149158&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1 Dru...commence smirking. hee hee! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted March 11, 2003 Author Share Posted March 11, 2003 I had a little smiley face for a reason. But what about Rouhling's 15b? huh? huh? huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 sexual_chocolate said: I had a little smiley face for a reason. But what about Rouhling's 15b? huh? huh? huh? i heard it has a glued on hold so.... really it sounds kind of contrived. a long boulder problem to a rest, get the rope thrown to you, clip it into your harness, then climb a 13c. if you did a boulder traverse around Monkey Face from the base of the NW face to Just Do It, got a no hands rest, and then Just Did it would that suddenly be 15d??? the new E10 7b in England sounds like its the same type of silly. do a boulder problem , pick up the rack and harness you left on the ledge, put them on, then climb a gear protected boulder problem (6 moves) off the ledge to the top both are super contrived whereas, La Rambla extension or Realization, are actual, start at the bottom, go to the top, no ledges, no contrived boulder starts, ROUTES. and seeing as how it was Huber that put up La Rambla i doubt its chipped either! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 sexual_chocolate said: I had a little smiley face for a reason. But what about Rouhling's 15b? huh? huh? huh? Climbing's crotchety spraylord/advice columnist Master Beta recently decried Rouhling's route (Akira) as being a drillfest, specifically, a route custom-drilled to his plus-seven ape index, adding that this is "Rouhling's wingnut signature on all his routes" (paraphrase). He's the baguettes-and-cheese version of the mighty Joe Brooks, except he hasn't quit climbing yet. Bugger that wank! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 i saw that joe brooks sells houses in vegas now!! in the paper jason and tiffant livine bought one from him and decried his professional stature and shit..... they now live in the beautiful summersville estates..... yeah i have read several places that rouhling is a wizard with the drill.....i guess someone has to be?! any route that is drilled or chipped is a1 even if they can free it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 he should just drill to pink tricam size. Then all are satisfied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 rouhlings other routes are customized drill jobs but Akira is all natural** save for glue reinforced flakes. You know, just like Smith, or the sport temple at Cheakamus, except they fell off anyways there. ** Or so says everyone who has ever seen or photographed it. You dont actually believe anything you read in master Beta do you? BUSTED!! Sucker fell for it Oh yeah lets not forget metric system: Rouhlings ape index is +7cm (=+2.5 inches) not +7 inches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 erik said: any route that is drilled or chipped is a1 even if they can free it We need to come up with a new designation for chipped routes. A1 isn't really accurate. On one hand, you are using something artificial for progress, but since it's still your burliness holding you on and not a bunch of widgets, it's not quite the same. Perhaps a C before the rating, e.g. "Rouhling's route is C5.15b." Unfortunately, C is already used for clean aid, A (as in artificial) is already used for aid, M (as in manufactured) is already used for mixed. Anyone? Anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 whatever you do please make it as complicated as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 Dru said: rouhlings other routes are customized drill jobs but Akira is all natural** save for glue reinforced flakes. You know, just like Smith, or the sport temple at Cheakamus, except they fell off anyways there. ** Or so says everyone who has ever seen or photographed it. You dont actually believe anything you read in master Beta do you? BUSTED!! Sucker fell for it Oh yeah lets not forget metric system: Rouhlings ape index is +7cm (=+2.5 inches) not +7 inches. Hey, wiseguy, Master Beta said 7 inches, not cm's. And anyway, he seems trustworthy on matters of chippage. Who d'you suppose it is, anyway? He sounds like John Sherman, or maybe Matt Samet writing like John Sherman. Fool needs to drop the third person business, as DFA has been slingin' that slop for years. And did you hear? R&I is bringing in this Dr. Piton character, who apparently sprays in other corners of the internet. Fake-ass crabs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 iain said: whatever you do please make it as complicated as possible. Well, if we could rival the Brits for confusing grading, that'd be ideal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 don't forget Dr. Crash over on the PowderMag forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 If it's really chipped to match the specs of the climber, then perhaps they could just call it a "Rouhling 5.15" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Dru said: rouhlings other routes are customized drill jobs but Akira is all natural** save for glue reinforced flakes. You know, just like Smith, or the sport temple at Cheakamus, except they fell off anyways there. ** Or so says everyone who has ever seen or photographed it. You dont actually believe anything you read in master Beta do you? BUSTED!! Sucker fell for it Oh yeah lets not forget metric system: Rouhlings ape index is +7cm (=+2.5 inches) not +7 inches. Hey, wiseguy, Master Beta said 7 inches, not cm's. And anyway, he seems trustworthy on matters of chippage. Who d'you suppose it is, anyway? He sounds like John Sherman, or maybe Matt Samet writing like John Sherman. Fool needs to drop the third person business, as DFA has been slingin' that slop for years. And did you hear? R&I is bringing in this Dr. Piton character, who apparently sprays in other corners of the internet. Fake-ass crabs! ah but master beta is misquoting a profile of Fred which originally appeared in On The Edge Magazine and the stat in that was +7 cm... the articlewhich featured the infamous posed shot of him bouldering out the roof of akira with the ladder on the ground he had used to get himself into pose position cause he cant actually link any of the moves anymore... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 is dr. piton anything like "pass the pitons pete" zabrok of Ontario??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 Dru said: is dr. piton anything like "pass the pitons pete" zabrok of Ontario??? yup that sux, that guy is fucking sketchy!!!! and likes to complicate things... oh well, i dont read that shizz.... i just think the pictures are pretty! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 Dru said: is dr. piton anything like "pass the pitons pete" zabrok of Ontario??? Who knows? Is "pass the pitons pete" anything like Big Wall Pete? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 there is nothing like the internet for elevating knowitalls to magazine fame, just look at john byrnes aka lord slime. if anyone ever offers me a magazine job based on the fact i spray, just shoot me...oh wait, jk already did! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 Dru said: ah but master beta is misquoting a profile of Fred which originally appeared in On The Edge Magazine and the stat in that was +7 cm... the articlewhich featured the infamous posed shot of him bouldering out the roof of akira with the ladder on the ground he had used to get himself into pose position cause he cant actually link any of the moves anymore... What a goob! And apparently Master Beta is stupid. A plus 2.5 ape is quite run-of-the-mill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 neil bentley was able to increase his ape index by +1 inch just from doing yoga stretches, leading to success on 2nd ascent equilibrium despite successfully sending only 1 time in 10 on TR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted March 12, 2003 Author Share Posted March 12, 2003 Hey, from what I've seen of Akira (that's the "15b", right?), it's not contrived at all. It's a route that starts in the back of a cave and climbs out and up a headwall. He was roped in and all, but didn't clip any bolts til turning the roof; why bother if you're only ten feet off the ground? I suppose one might simplky call it a boulder problem and end it at the lip, but the headwall would continue to call out.... And yes, that's what I heard: He simply reinforced a flake with epoxy. No holds were added. I personally have to consider it the hardest sport route in the world until repeated. No one else has even done the moves, even though it's been tried by other strong climbers. This can't be said about Realization, which really is like running a marathon with a hard sprint at the end, in comparison. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted March 12, 2003 Share Posted March 12, 2003 erik said: Dru said: is dr. piton anything like "pass the pitons pete" zabrok of Ontario??? yup that sux, that guy is fucking sketchy!!!! and likes to complicate things... oh well, i dont read that shizz.... i just think the pictures are pretty! aka Hustler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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