texplorer Posted March 5, 2003 Posted March 5, 2003 Greetings All I have the rest of March tied up but am looking for new and adventurous climbs to do in late spring. Any suggestions? Looking for things besides the usual slogs and typical rock climbs. Flame away. Quote
jaee Posted March 5, 2003 Posted March 5, 2003 Steel Cliffs, now thru end o' april if you haven't already. What fun. 3 Sisters on skis M. Sister Ice Hose (NE face?) N. Sister Early Morning Couloir The ever classic Newton Clark Headwall Illumination rock Triple crown of the gorge: Dog, Ruckel, Defiance in a day. Make it special and swim the columbia Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 5, 2003 Posted March 5, 2003 Ground-up onsight FAs on the Smith Rock Group. Helmets are aid. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 5, 2003 Posted March 5, 2003 Full Heinous using the original three (?) bolts and RPs! Quote
Know_Fear Posted March 5, 2003 Posted March 5, 2003 Tex, We met at Shredder's slide show/party. I know you're an aspiring rock/alpine climber. Having spent lots of time in the Sierras, Tetons, Winds, etc. I can sympathize with you. How is it that we live in this amazing place - on the threshold of the Cascade Range and all everyone wants to do is slog up the same 5 trade routes, and hang at Smith Rock. Have you climbed Green Giant Butress - Giant Tears, or the Kone? I think there are some "real" climbs in the Darrington neighborhood (here it comes...). The Washington Pass/Wine Spires rock looks pretty good. Squamish has some fine rock routes. Adams Glacier is a nice route if you haven't done it. The north and east side of Adams are rarely visited. Crack open the Becky guides and review the section on Mt. Rainier. There are some big technical glaciers on that mountain that see very little traffic. It's in our back yard! But why limit your search to OR? Have you seen the new Alpine Guide for B.C. by Mclane? I recommend John Baldwin's "Mountains of the Coast: Photographs of Remote Corners of the Coast Mountains." Peter Croft and Conrad Anker have been pioneering some stuff there recently. That's the future of alpine climbing in the Northwest (especially if all these f*ing glaciers keep melting) What's my excuse? I have a ball and chain "real" job, a girlfriend, and I'm gett'in old (I'm not fat yet). Take my advice - don't waste your youth on B.S. like work, or love. Go climbing! And take some of these wankers with ya - they're spending way too much time on CC. Quote
rbw1966 Posted March 5, 2003 Posted March 5, 2003 On top of what Know Fear has suggested, I might add the Bugaboos, the Winds, Wallowas, and in winter don't discount the idea of Montana for some ice. I drove from Portland to Bozeman on a 4-day weekend and got 3 full days of climbing in at Hyalite. Sometimes its frustrating being in Oregon because we are so close, yet so far, from some spectacular areas. City of Rocks is not that far away either. I've made it to Washington Pass in 9 hours and been able to knock off several routes in a weekend. Hope this helps. Quote
wayne Posted March 6, 2003 Posted March 6, 2003 jaee peged it. Or move to Washington? Worked for me. Quote
AARON1 Posted March 7, 2003 Posted March 7, 2003 Has anyone done Dog, Ruckel, and Defiance in a day? What order did you do it in? And how long did it take you? I thought about doing this last Summer but did not get around to it. The order I would do it in would probably be Ruckel, Defiance, and then Dog. Quote
wayne Posted March 7, 2003 Posted March 7, 2003 Actually the Black Spider has an easy 5.6-AI3. Very classic Goes up the Right coulior and goes left up a hidden ramp . At the end of this , up a 5.6 hand crack. Ted Davis probably did the FA of this in the early 70s. Solo. It was the first ascent of the Black Spider. It has seen a repeat. Must have low avvy. Must get early start. The Spider has seen 5 ascents, via 6 different routes. It has the hardest ice in Oregon, WI5+-A2. It catches scary sun first thing Quote
jaee Posted March 7, 2003 Posted March 7, 2003 Aha! Wayne, is this something you've hinted at before (don't remember the venue) as the great unknown on hood? Glad you spilled it. I was fishing for a comment from you by listing NCHW. This way we'll get more SAR on the E. side. Quote
jaee Posted March 7, 2003 Posted March 7, 2003 iain said: why would anyone bother? An accomplished endurance athelete™ would do it, just to show he could. Quote
texplorer Posted March 7, 2003 Author Posted March 7, 2003 Thanks for the replys everyone, I'm off to do Steins pillar tommorrow but I'll start looking at that black spider. I have heard about it but only in terms of the typical "sick, death route" blah blah blah. Sounds like and interesting and maybe even doable route. I agree there is actually a ton of stuff within a days drive from here but I was just wondering about stuff more local. I have heard good things about the Wallowas. Quote
iain Posted March 7, 2003 Posted March 7, 2003 I think there's been a landslide or two since that spider stuff was done, if I'm not mistaken...could be a little different now? Quote
wayne Posted March 8, 2003 Posted March 8, 2003 It depends on what part of the face collapsed. There will still be Ice.............somewhere on it! Quote
Off_White Posted March 8, 2003 Posted March 8, 2003 Is the Black Spider the thing right of the route line in this photo? Looks like a cold and overcast day kind of route to be sure. Quote
iain Posted March 9, 2003 Posted March 9, 2003 framed up on the right and left by my two least-favorite hood routes! Quote
CascadeClimber Posted March 10, 2003 Posted March 10, 2003 The Spider has seen 5 ascents, via 6 different routes. I'm trying to work out the logistics of this one. Maybe my math skills are rusty, but I can't figure out how a face can have six established routes and only five ascents. -L Quote
wayne Posted March 10, 2003 Posted March 10, 2003 I got it wrong , it has seen 5 ascents via 4 different routes . I loaded the routes(see attachment) and drew in the lines from left to right : Elder-Russel IV-5.7? Arachnophobia IV+-5.9+-AI4 Davis Ramp II-5.6-AI3 Black WidowIII-AI5+-A2 I have copies of the topo in Climaxe and PMS stores. It is due out in The new Oregon High whenever that comes out. Quote
cracked Posted March 10, 2003 Posted March 10, 2003 CascadeClimber said: The Spider has seen 5 ascents, via 6 different routes. I'm trying to work out the logistics of this one. Maybe my math skills are rusty, but I can't figure out how a face can have six established routes and only five ascents. -L Must be more than a little rusty... Quote
wayne Posted March 10, 2003 Posted March 10, 2003 wayne1112 said: The Spider has seen 5 ascents, via 6 different routes. It could Happen! Quote
erik Posted March 10, 2003 Posted March 10, 2003 wayne1112 said: wayne1112 said: The Spider has seen 5 ascents, via 6 different routes. It could Happen! yeah if the team were on hallucigenic drugz.... i climbed elcap once 14 times in a day.... its true, i have the tracers to prove it!!! i think! Quote
wayne Posted March 11, 2003 Posted March 11, 2003 Wasnt the first ascent of Watusi Rodeo Made by 2 routes ? Quote
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