WA/OR Ice Conditions 23-24

[existentialcrisisonmailbox]

@Kyle M I'm offended that you would dare to make climbing recommendations to @Kayleighm or any Eastern Washington alpinist. Unlike their bougie, coddled, and techbro-centric Seattle counterparts, Eastern Washington alpinists are the real deal. Every morning, they wake up and do 10x hill repeats at 5k speed up Ingalls Peak as a warm-up to set the FKT on the Teanaway Traverse. For lunch, they head over to the North Cascades to do a one day push of the High Route using only huaraches and a compass because gear is aid. You think you're hard for doing Glacier Peak in a day? Think again; Eastern Washington alpinists lap Glacier Peak in the dead of winter as they prepare to do their yearly repeat of the Bulger List. Which acts as base-building for their ultimate yearly objective: setting the FKT on Mailbox Peak without the use of supplemental oxygen. 

All in all, I am flabbergasted that you think you have the mountain expertise or moxie to give guidance to climbers of that profile. Check your cardio privilege, porfavor. 

Edited January 21 by existentialcrisisonmailbox

[JasonG]

I am 180% behind this renewal of the cc.com battle cage!

                

[olyclimber]

Have you guys hiked up to Twin Falls in winter? No trekking poles. No traction just boots. An alder branch.  Until you have done this you are all just my sons and daughters. And I love you.

[mthorman]

I haven't climbed Mailbox Peak, nor have I done Glacier Peak in a day or the Bulger List but I did climb some ice in Banks today.  Most routes are not in but we found good ice on the Corner Route at MP 9.  Left MBI 1 was also in.  The cable and H2O2 are trying but not really close.  We climbed U1 and U2 at MP 14.  Peewee #1, 4, and 5 all looked in.  Zenith wasn't even close although it is trying.  Most other lines were either non-existent although a few of the brush routes were trying.

[rat]

On 1/16/2024 at 10:52 PM, Kayleighm said:

Spotted a climb north of US 2 in Merritt the other day. Went to check it out today and a good chunk of the upper section looked airy and like it would be hard to get in good pro. Seeing as none of the group has had a day swinging tools this season we decided to save it for another day (if the PNW ice gods allow).

 

 

Does anybody know what route this is? Looked around MP and such as well as the Washington Ice guidebook. Washington Ice had two climbs in the Merritt section but this one doesn't quite match up to either.

Kicking myself a little bit because I feel like I could have led it BUT always erring on the side of caution with ice. Hopefully it sticks around long enough and solidifies!

Thanks for any info =]

This is the main part of Chandelier Falls. Some stuff also occasionally forms just to the west. The old Chandelier Cafe is a bit east of here. Last time I was in the area, access had become somewhat complicated by new houses near Hwy 2. 

There is also an ~2 pitch route north of the Hwy2/Whitepine Cr. Rd. junction that is high up on Nason Ridge. This is difficult to see from the road. You'll want skis or a supportable crust. 

 

Edited January 28 by rat

[Lostbolt]

13 hours ago, rat said:

This is the main part of Chandelier Falls. Some stuff also occasionally forms just to the west. The old Chandelier Cafe is a bit east of here. Last time I was in the area, access had become somewhat complicated by new houses near Hwy 2. 

There is also an ~2 pitch route north of the Hwy2/Whitepine Cr. Rd. junction that is high up on Nason Ridge. This is difficult to see from the road. You'll want skis or a supportable crust. 

 

I second this posting. I was able to get in there 3 years ago, a friend lives in the neighborhood. The Family that has the property furthest back from the road mentioned his disappointment in the climbers that come tromping up the creek through his yard. We asked he gave us permission and said thank you, let us park in the driveway. I can't see this being a normal thing but asking is better than ,getting chased by dogs, or peppered with rock salt (that has happened since I was a teenager lol.