[TR] Goode - NE Butt 08/03/2023

[bedellympian]

Trip: Goode - NE Butt

Trip Date: 08/03/2023

Trip Report:

Kyle Tarry and I climbed this peak in two days from Rainy Pass Aug 3-4.

Day 1: Hike to bivy sites below the glacier and scope the glacial approach.

Day 2: Climb the route (6x simul pitches), descend to Park Creek and hike back to Rainy Pass, arriving at 1am... should have probably just stopped to sleep somewhere.

Pictures:

Goode from North Fork

Kyle at the NF creek crossing.

Hiking up to the bivies, surprisingly chill trail through the slide alder.

Logan and Fireweed

Kyle slogging in the heat. Minimal schwackage though.

Scoping the glacier and lower route.

Kyle low on route, 2nd simul pitch next morning.

View E off ridge.

More scrambling with the rope on.

Kyle romping... rope is less jengis than it appears.

Even more scrambles.

Choss f*$&ery on what I assume is upper Megalodon?

Eldorado (far R), Forbidden, Buckner, Booker, Trapper Lake, looking to the W.

Glacier Peak, Dome and friends to the S.

Descent in the burn. Pretty, not too hard but dusty on this section.

Purdy bits from the long walk out. 👇

 

Gear Notes:
approach shoes are fine, 60m double rope folded over for simuling, single rack to #2

Approach Notes:
There is a significant climbers trail from North Fork to the cliff below the glacier. We were both surprised at how easy the "bushwhack" was for NCNP. We were able to sneak onto the glacier and access the L side of the buttress above some crevasses with no serious difficulty. It looked uncertain from below but went fine.

Edited August 8, 2023 by bedellympian

[olyclimber]

Awesome! Thank you for sharing!

[JasonG]

So awesome!  The old wisdom was that the glacier got hard late season, but maybe that is changing as the ice retreats? 

I have to admit that this is one of my favorite NCNP climbs so it is tempting to go back.  But that is a looooooong walk now!!! (I was lucky and climbed prior to the washout in 2003)

[Phil K]

Yeah; a bus ride with bakery stop sounds way better. Fun route for sure!

[JasonG]

Wow, blast from the past @Phil K!!

[Bronco]

Those are some OG choss dawgs!

[Phil K]

12 hours ago, Bronco said:

Those are some OG choss dawgs!

Besides renowned Choss Dawg Jason, the other dude is Doug Payne (RIP), one of the most solid guys I ever roped up with.

Funny story- On our first attempt at this climb, after a torrid approach, we woke at the bivy site to unexpected clouds and the threat of afternoon T-storms. Not liking that prospect we opted to go over the Goode/Stormking col, scout the descent, and out via Park Creek. (NPS shuttle, bus, and bakery)

We ascended snow to just below the col and Doug took the sharp end up the final gulley to the top. There he is, like 80' off the deck with barely any meaningful protection, trying to pick his way up a particularly ugly section. Rocks were raining down, Doug was muttering quietly to himself and occasionally cursing out loud; making no progress. It didn't look that hard, and I was surprised that he seemed a bit rattled.

He made it, of course, and when it was my turn to follow I was shocked at what a nasty, downsloping rotten mess that section was. I was creeped out even on toprope. 

Edited August 10, 2023 by Phil K

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Love it!